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03-07-2016, 09:07 PM | #21 | |
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Re: oil pump help
Quote:
Last edited by Ron Gusack; 03-07-2016 at 09:28 PM. Reason: add |
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03-08-2016, 02:02 PM | #22 |
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Re: oil pump help
I have never put those plugs in a pump. Guess I'm missing something. I would assume ATF would be fine. I just figured hot zero wt oil would maybe be close to solvent. Could be wrong. That zero-10 stuff splatters like water if you spill it. It did show me where it was leaking at the mating surfaces.
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA |
03-08-2016, 06:06 PM | #23 | |
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Re: oil pump help
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I don't wanna buy a tool to remove the dowels if I can help it. I'm old and this could be my last ever build. I was thinking about the copper gasket that Summit sells for 4 bucks. I really appreciate your advice on using thin stuff, cause I'd have never thought of it. I've been building engines since the mid 60's and never used an oil pump gasket before. |
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03-08-2016, 06:48 PM | #24 |
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Re: oil pump help
I never have either. Was not aware they sold them. If the surface on the cap is smooth, and my Bowtie was, you can pass on that one.
I'm not trying to pass myself off as a pro. Not making any claims, just mentioning what I have seen.
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA |
03-08-2016, 07:44 PM | #25 |
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Re: oil pump help
ATF is about the same viscosity as 20 weight oil . Lacquer thinner is very low viscosity, and without any lubricity , I am surprised the pump did not seize during the test . We used to use a test fluid at HydraMatic when we would test pumps, it simulated 200 deg Dextron 3 fluid . We got rid of it and used Heated Dex3 because it was more accurate to test pump efficiency with the pump and fluid running at operating temperatures. Clearances don't change much if the pump body and the gears are a similar material, but make a big difference if the pump body is aluminum, and the gears are steel . Also it is more efficient to have the regulator designed to bypass back to the suction side of the pump gears , a blowoff regulator would tend to aerate the oil in the pan . Aerated oil does not provide a good lubrication film for bearings . One of the purposes of a dry sump tank is to separate the air from the oil, so the pump is pumping clean oil. What would be great if someone would develop a Variable Displacement pump for these engines, then you would only pump what you actually need .
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03-08-2016, 09:00 PM | #26 |
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Re: oil pump help
Paint thinner is a little dry. Using solvent to check my relief valve setting, I pull the plate off the end and blow it all dry and lube everything before using it.
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA |
03-08-2016, 09:22 PM | #27 |
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Re: oil pump help
The order of testing was oil, ATF and then thinner, so there was some lubricant in the thinner.
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03-09-2016, 12:15 PM | #28 |
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Re: oil pump help
just make yourself a small slide hammer to pull the dowel pins out should not take more than 20-30 minutes to fabricate one up- couple of set screws, some steel rod a 1-2 pound weight and a small collar to fit over the dowel pins, do a little drilling and tapping and you have your dowel pin remover- proceed to surface all the mating areas of the pump and rear main cap ---then either reinstall the original dowel pins or obtain new ones from an industrial supply house--- thats the way we did ours--- FED 387
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03-10-2016, 07:54 PM | #29 |
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Re: oil pump help
A carpenters claw hammer does a good job of removing dowel pins
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