Cleaning Radiator/?s

[FED 387]

Wynn's quick cool or Red Line water wetter. We always use sodium silicate or better known as "Water Glass" works great with alum heads will not plug radiators cores either--- Fed 387

[Randall Klein]

I just examined my 20 year old alum radiator....yuck! We started using distilled a few years ago.

Some recommend an anode (?)

One radiator supplier has a recomendation of a series of ground straps (Ron Davis I believe)

I'm interested in any other solutions, or if the above two help

[FireSale]

Originally Posted by Randall Klein

I just examined my 20 year old alum radiator....yuck! We started using distilled a few years ago.

Some recommend an anode (?)

One radiator supplier has a recomendation of a series of ground straps (Ron Davis I believe)

I'm interested in any other solutions, or if the above two help

Anode is an electrical term so I looked it up to see how it related to a radiator. Seems companies like Flex a Lite make these little zinc inserts that go in the radiator drain hole. The junk in the water will eat the zinc rather than the iron or aluminum in the system. Seems to be an old heavy equipment trick. Cheap.

Sample Link: http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/...lite-anode.htm

Same thing at Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/search?S...&keyword=anode

Also try Radiator Anode on Amazon.

Dale

[njk53]

If there is rust and/or silicate formation in your radiator, there is nothing on the market that will completely and effectively remove these deposits from your radiator. I was involved in a study (at a major OEM) where we tried all kinds of over the counter solutions as well as solutions that were made up by our chemists. The problem was that you needed the solution to be very aggresive to remove a good portion of the rust/silicate deposits and when it did, the same solution damaged the radiator.
In our race car we run tap water (we have excellent tap water here in Detroit) with a RedLine corrosion inhibitor that has worked well for us.
If your current radiator has a fair amount of corrosion build up, I would bite the bullet and replace the radiator because it isn't cooling at peak efficiency and with a brand new engine, I wouldn't take any chances with an old radiator with potential restrictions.

[MIKE3554]

Amsoil has a product called Dominator Coolant Boost that has been tested for corrosion inhibitors. More info is available at amsoil.com. Data bulletin G2785.

Mike Warren 3554 IHRA V/SA

[Bob Mulry]

Originally Posted by FireSale

Anode is an electrical term so I looked it up to see how it related to a radiator. Seems companies like Flex a Lite make these little zinc inserts that go in the radiator drain hole. The junk in the water will eat the zinc rather than the iron or aluminum in the system. Seems to be an old heavy equipment trick. Cheap.

Sample Link: http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/...lite-anode.htm

Same thing at Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/search?S...&keyword=anode

Also try Radiator Anode on Amazon.

Dale

Hi,

When I worked at the shipyards they always welded "zincs" on the hull of ships to prevent electrolysis due to the dissimilar metals of the steel hull, brass valves and bronze screws..........

They used "zincs" as the sacrificial metal to protect the others....

Zinc is a more active metal so that it would be sacrificed and not the ship.....

If you put zinc in an engine with an aluminum intake and radiator they will be sacrificed to protect the zinc.....

A more active metal must be used for protection.....

Aluminum intakes and radiators need a magnesium anode in the coolant (water) for protection.....

Bob

[FireSale]

Magnesium anode source:
http://www.miatacage.com/magnesium-anode

I also found them attached to radiator caps.

BTW: My heads, intake and radiator are all aluminum on an iron block..

Learning something as I go.

Dale