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#1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: from Vancouver BC Canada, now in Nova Scotia
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Gotta wonder what NHRA and Lakewoods thinking is concerning drilling and welding on a SFI stickered component.
{QUOTE=Sean Marconette;474338]On my old Lakewood bellhousings, I installed the welded style like these. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lak-15981 With the welded style, when the bellhousing is installed and the alignment is where you want it. With all fasteners installed and tight, then all you have to do is tack the weld bushings. Not enough heat to change the alignment. Or as suggested buy a Browell. Best money I have ever spent. Good Luck Sean[/QUOTE]
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NHRA 6390 STK M/S 85 Mustang Last edited by Rory McNeil; 06-20-2015 at 11:48 PM. |
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#2 |
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DO NOT do any mods yourself !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! your SFI is VOID-you will have a very expensive piece of junk----- send it back to the manufacturer and let them do the mods that way they can "certify" that the mod meets approval---I still would buy 2 better yet 3 so you have a spare pin of the 3/4 in pins and offset turn them--- there must be a competent machinest you in your area you know that can do this--- ya I know its a pain but that seems to me to be the easiest way
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#3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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Anyone that races a clutch car has drilled holes to check air gap and to adjust the clutch. Those holes were never an issue on SFI recertification or the tacked alignment bushings on my Lakewoods. I drilled a hole in my Browell to check air gap, and it was just recertified over the winter. Browell could have deemed my modification as a money grab if it were an issue. All they did was tap and install a plug in the hole.
Sorry to derail your post John, I was commenting on the misalignment and not the real issue of alignment pin availability. Browell might be able to provide a solution.
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Sean Marconette 84 Mustang 5060 SS/N |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
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Thanks for all the suggestions.
At this point I am working with a local machinist to make sleeves for the block, so I can use the original RobbMc offset pins that I purchased. The main deciding factor for me was this solution allows me to keep using off the shelf offset dowel pins in the future. I can only imagine loosing a custom dowel pin and having to do this whole process over. John |
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#5 |
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Location: Henderson, NV
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Can you try wrapping a shim about .009" or .010" around the dowel, just enough for a snug fit, and use blue loctite so you can get it back out if needed. I drill and tap mine for 5/16 x 18 so I can take them out with a slide hammer.
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#6 |
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John, I've had success taking a hammer and punch to knurl the OD of the dowel pins where they interface to slightly oversized or worn holes in the block. Pretty primitive, but it was enough to tighten the pins up in my application. Not sure if it would work in your circumstance. The machined sleeves you mentioned are certainly an elegant solution.
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#7 |
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shim stock is available in several dimensions/thicknesses usually in .001-.0005 increments try any serious machinist supply house
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#8 |
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I can't remember the size and don't have any on hand at the moment,but I think the size your holes in your block are the size that they opened up to when using BHJ products fixture.
BHJ dowel true corrects dowel holes off main bores,reams holes oversize to correct position. I always use weld on bushings,easiest way to correct,I also use BHJ dowel true and surface bell area of block square to mains. Mike Taylor 3601 |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
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Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions.
The problem has been solved thanks to Chuck Norton and Jack at C.M.C. Engineering. I had sleeves made for the dowel pins holes and used the RobMc pins to align the bellhousing. This was my first time using the Browell Alignment tool. However, I found that I like the traditional way of aligning the bellhousing over using the Browell alignment tool. To me, the traditional way is more precise. The final numbers are shown below. ![]() ![]() |
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