|
|
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 977
Likes: 799
Liked 275 Times in 76 Posts
|
![]()
On my old Lakewood bellhousings, I installed the welded style like these.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lak-15981 With the welded style, when the bellhousing is installed and the alignment is where you want it. With all fasteners installed and tight, then all you have to do is tack the weld bushings. Not enough heat to change the alignment. Or as suggested buy a Browell. Best money I have ever spent. Good Luck Sean
__________________
Sean Marconette 84 Mustang 5060 SS/N |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 75
Likes: 5
Liked 11 Times in 4 Posts
|
![]() Quote:
Buying the Browell was the first step of the whole process. Now I just need to find a solution for the dowell pins. ![]() Last edited by JohnRoderick; 06-20-2015 at 01:54 PM. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 551
Liked 335 Times in 182 Posts
|
![]()
John--- look at McMaster -Carr company they sell dowel pins up to 3/4" in diameter and 4 inches long pretty inexpensive too about $3-5 each plus shipping --- when you get them have any competent machinist turn them on a lathe to the diameter you need--- problem solved--- FED 387
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: from Vancouver BC Canada, now in Nova Scotia
Posts: 1,312
Likes: 323
Liked 1,112 Times in 304 Posts
|
![]()
Gotta wonder what NHRA and Lakewoods thinking is concerning drilling and welding on a SFI stickered component.
{QUOTE=Sean Marconette;474338]On my old Lakewood bellhousings, I installed the welded style like these. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lak-15981 With the welded style, when the bellhousing is installed and the alignment is where you want it. With all fasteners installed and tight, then all you have to do is tack the weld bushings. Not enough heat to change the alignment. Or as suggested buy a Browell. Best money I have ever spent. Good Luck Sean[/QUOTE]
__________________
NHRA 6390 STK M/S 85 Mustang Last edited by Rory McNeil; 06-20-2015 at 11:48 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 551
Liked 335 Times in 182 Posts
|
![]()
DO NOT do any mods yourself !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! your SFI is VOID-you will have a very expensive piece of junk----- send it back to the manufacturer and let them do the mods that way they can "certify" that the mod meets approval---I still would buy 2 better yet 3 so you have a spare pin of the 3/4 in pins and offset turn them--- there must be a competent machinest you in your area you know that can do this--- ya I know its a pain but that seems to me to be the easiest way
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 977
Likes: 799
Liked 275 Times in 76 Posts
|
![]()
Anyone that races a clutch car has drilled holes to check air gap and to adjust the clutch. Those holes were never an issue on SFI recertification or the tacked alignment bushings on my Lakewoods. I drilled a hole in my Browell to check air gap, and it was just recertified over the winter. Browell could have deemed my modification as a money grab if it were an issue. All they did was tap and install a plug in the hole.
Sorry to derail your post John, I was commenting on the misalignment and not the real issue of alignment pin availability. Browell might be able to provide a solution.
__________________
Sean Marconette 84 Mustang 5060 SS/N |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 75
Likes: 5
Liked 11 Times in 4 Posts
|
![]()
Thanks for all the suggestions.
At this point I am working with a local machinist to make sleeves for the block, so I can use the original RobbMc offset pins that I purchased. The main deciding factor for me was this solution allows me to keep using off the shelf offset dowel pins in the future. I can only imagine loosing a custom dowel pin and having to do this whole process over. John |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 585
Likes: 9
Liked 55 Times in 28 Posts
|
![]()
Can you try wrapping a shim about .009" or .010" around the dowel, just enough for a snug fit, and use blue loctite so you can get it back out if needed. I drill and tap mine for 5/16 x 18 so I can take them out with a slide hammer.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: the Brazos Valley of TX
Posts: 114
Likes: 161
Liked 125 Times in 33 Posts
|
![]()
John, I've had success taking a hammer and punch to knurl the OD of the dowel pins where they interface to slightly oversized or worn holes in the block. Pretty primitive, but it was enough to tighten the pins up in my application. Not sure if it would work in your circumstance. The machined sleeves you mentioned are certainly an elegant solution.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 75
Likes: 5
Liked 11 Times in 4 Posts
|
![]()
Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions.
The problem has been solved thanks to Chuck Norton and Jack at C.M.C. Engineering. I had sleeves made for the dowel pins holes and used the RobMc pins to align the bellhousing. This was my first time using the Browell Alignment tool. However, I found that I like the traditional way of aligning the bellhousing over using the Browell alignment tool. To me, the traditional way is more precise. The final numbers are shown below. ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|