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#1 |
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Its almost ready to come out. I just need to loosen it from frame mounts but it looks like the frame running front to back drivers side is going to prevent the trans from being lowered out the bottom. It runs right along the edge of the pan. Is there a trick to getting the clearance to lower it out the bottom or do I need to bring the entire motor and trans out the top.
John Riley Jr 301 DF/S Last edited by greatinspirational; 12-25-2014 at 08:14 PM. |
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#2 |
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Support the engine from the top, there are hangers available to do that. Remove the entire cradle. Remove the transmission.
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#3 |
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I used to use those hangers with the Caddy but eventually found they weren't really needed. Support the engine with a jack, (not really needed) make sure you have pulled the axes and the trans will slide out. We used to change converters in 45 min. Jim
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Jim Wahl....NHRA #2239 S/SS - IHRA # 8 Stock, D2 Stock Champion (forever I guess) 2019 Baby Gators Stock Champion 2009 NHRA D2 National Open Stock Champion 1982 NHRA D2 West Palm Beach LDRS SS Runner Up Past President, Southern Stock / Super Stock Association. ![]() |
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#4 |
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Some of those cradles would split from corner to opposite corner..Not sure on that one.
You can use a hoist to support the engine too. In any case, while it's apart, I'd make sure you have the clearance for the next time.
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"We are lucky we don't get as much Government as we pay for." Will Rogers |
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#5 |
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11
Last edited by greatinspirational; 12-25-2014 at 08:17 PM. |
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#6 |
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Hydramatic Motorsports supplied the original transmission for that car way back in the 90's. The gear sets from a THM 125 do not interchange with a 4T60. There were some high ratio sprockets made for the 4T60, these were made by Hydramatic Motorsports, and later were production, available for the Volvo version of the 4T60.
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#7 |
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Unless the frame has been modified it unbolts at the Rt. frt. You remove the bolts at the rt. frt. and the frame mount at the LF and LR and that half comes out. You have to break the ball joints to remove the axles easily. You can leave the L ball joint attached and swing the frame out, flat rate time saver. I use a support that goes from fender to fender and holds the motor up. You can make a support and use a long J bolt so you can hook the motor and raise or lower it, helps aligning everything.
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#8 |
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Last edited by greatinspirational; 12-25-2014 at 08:17 PM. |
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#9 |
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A 4T40 might work well, I believe there is a case that will bolt up. Adapters are not legal in stock, unless approved by NHRA. Joel on Joy did the trans for Bill Owens Grand Am, so he has some knowledge of the 4T40. If you still have the original trans in the Olds, it actually has a higher numerical ratio trans, than what the 4T40 has, and uses a similar converter. I don't see much upside in changing the car to install a 4T40.
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#10 |
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33
Last edited by greatinspirational; 12-25-2014 at 08:17 PM. |
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