DSE Mini Tub Install Question

[Dion Hildebrandt]

Originally Posted by MAURICE BLENDHEIM

Dale… Level and support are the most important factors. The rockers on a unibody car are structural members that connect the front to the rear and support (platform) the 1/4 panels ahead of the rear wheel opening into the door jamb. The inner and outer wheel housings also are structural, assisting with support to the rear half of the body. Unless the frame connectors are tied into the rockers, the rear subframe your about to remove is partially supporting the weight of the body. The supporting of the rear of the car as far back as you can is vital. I would also suggest mounting and lining up the other door, before you start cutting make sure the doors are latched closed. After you have done your tacking make sure your doors open and close normally as well as the trunk lid, then finish weld. Utilizing your cars integral members properly can save you some unnecessary tubing. Are your plans for a 29.5x11.5 x15 tire? Good Luck…Maurice.

Also when it comes time to weld...DO NOT BE IN A HURRY!! At my shop I have had to have more than a few projects similar to yours put up on the frame machine because there was not enough time allowed for cool down between welds. They all would have been quicker for my shop to do them from the start (and cheaper) if this advice was followed. A fellow body technician friend had his nova "banana" doing this exact modification with the minitubs. He fired up the welder and didn't stop till it was done.....and then installed floor pots and started doing frame straightening.

That being said as long as all the panels (doors, trunk, even fenders and hood ) are lined up properly and the car is supported properly (the rocker pinch weld is best as described earlier) there should be no movement of the car.

Take your time, pay attention to the details, and you should have no problems. Your thoughts and concerns about structure are well founded, and if you plan out this project properly you will be rewarded for it

[MAURICE BLENDHEIM]

Dale…Exactly as Dion mentioned, take your time when finish welding starts. Prepare all surfaces to clean bare metal. I generally start from the centre of the wheel opening. Don't be afraid to add another series of tacks between your originals. Then stitch weld, moving from side to side till complete, this way you will allow heat to dissipate as you make progress. You would be amazed how much something can move with such a small amount of weld. "Your attention to detail in the construction will yield the best starting line results". MB.

[FireSale]

Maurice and Dion, thanks for your time.

I'll look at the rockers today and move the supports over. That will take the stress off the frame from the weight of the car shell. Getting the passenger door off was a pain - the bolts are part rivet part bolt. It's off because there's some body damage to the right front fender that catches on the door when it opens. I will probably replace the fender rather than try to take a race car to the body shop.

As for the welding, I just replaced my 110 with a Miller 211 and plan on doing a lot of practice on scrap before I ever touch the car with it. I'm retired and time is something I have plenty of.

Here is a link to an install of the DSE mini tubs if you want to see what's involved.

Thanks again,

Dale