B/PS lt1 formula

[Dan Fahey]

Originally Posted by russellauto1

No My name is aaron and I am in Columbus Ohio. Thanks for the info. I am gathering parts right now for the car. Headers are coming, Will call bullet in a few weeks after we get the engine out of the car. That is an Awesome 60 ft time.

Contact PCMforLess they can Dyno your car.
They are not far from Columbus, close to Salem.

Bullet also has a set of IHRA legal Springs for the cam..

D

[KennyAnderson]

Originally Posted by russellauto1

THANKS kenny, That is some Great information. I was kinda looking at the same converter, but wasn't sure of the stall. I was leaning towards 4.10 or 4.56. I am still gonna use 7.5 rear axle but weld axle tubes, rear support and some other modds that some of the mustang guys do. As far as the exhaust, right now I have shorty headers with a aftermarket y pipe. Gonna do some research on what I can do there. I think I am going to leave a/c on cr for now. Just so I can make weight and cool off. What wheels are you going to run? I am unsure of the rear back spacing I should get. But I may get some 16" so I can put drag radials on the rear. Thanks for the info from Everyone and Keep it coming. It makes me think a little hard!!!

Hey Aaron, You are welcome and I'm excited I'm not alone in this endeavor! I bought some 15 x 8 Weld Pro Stars off a member here. Have a 5.5" backspacing and fit perfect. A 15 x 10 with a 7.5" backspace also fits. I used some regular 15 x 4 frontrunners on the front although my wheels had 27" Goodyears and they look like tractor tires! LOL! Going to get some 25"-26". On the rear I have MT 275 street radials. Great tires and they hook really good with this setup. The front wheels will require a 5/16" spacer to clear the calipers. My rear calipers were already ground on to fit the 15's. 15's are nice cause there are some X275 guys local and I can get their takeoffs for cheap. I don't think you will need to keep anything to make weight, in fact I think you'll need to gut everything possible. Your minimum weight in B/PS will be 3005lbs with you on board. I'm pretty sure it would be impossible to get that light with all the pure stock required stuff on there. C/PS would be 3320 lbs. Im shooting for D/PS with a minimum race weight of 3635. As it is my car with my fat *** in it is quite a bit over that. Im nervous about the factory rear. I have some buds who are Camaro guru's. All of em said the factory rear will start giving me fits when we get down into the 1.70/60/50 shorty times. This car might eventually be a crate motor car so although I don't want to spend the coin right now, a 12 bolt is in its future. Look up LS1tech.com. More Camaro/Firebird info than you will ever need. One thing that I found REALLY useful, in the racing section there is a sticky for all weight reduction parts and just about everything you can gut and what it weighs. Get BUSY Bro!

[KennyAnderson]

Originally Posted by Tar Heel

B/PS? Who in the world would want to run that?

Contact Mark Kent at GM about the cam specs. IHRA didn't have any for our car so we emailed him and he was kind enough to send us the OEM #s. I then sent those to Mike Baker and he approved the car for Pure Stock. Then gave those numbers to Bullet and they ground us a nice cam. With changing the cam and adding 1 & 7/8" headers we picked up more than 5 tenths.

Also, don't be afraid to put a converter and gear in it. We have a Yank SS4000 because I found one almost new for about half of what they cost. It's a great converter but it's a street converter. When I get ambitious I'm going to try to get it loosened up to 5000. We also put a 3.90 gear in the car because it was a DD at the time. They only go to a 4.10 on the gear for these cars and I wish I had that. We run a 28" tire. I believe with a 5000 TC and a 4.10 gear I could pick up even more. If I had an LT1 car (and I have had those) I wouldn't hesitate going with a 5000 converter and a 4.56 gear with a 28" tire.

Where are you located?

Scott

1/2 a second from a cam and headers is AWESOME!!! What is your car rated at for hp Scott? What et's and mph do you run. I have a bud with a late model LS1 vette he built into an NHRA legal stocker with mainly just bolt ons. Runs quite a bit under the index. REALLY peaves the stocker guys when he drives it into the racetrack and goes waayyy under and goes rounds.

[KennyAnderson]

Originally Posted by KennyAnderson

Hey Aaron, You are welcome and I'm excited I'm not alone in this endeavor! I bought some 15 x 8 Weld Pro Stars off a member here. Have a 5.5" backspacing and fit perfect. A 15 x 10 with a 7.5" backspace also fits. I used some regular 15 x 4 frontrunners on the front although my wheels had 27" Goodyears and they look like tractor tires! LOL! Going to get some 25"-26". On the rear I have MT 275 street radials. Great tires and they hook really good with this setup. The front wheels will require a 5/16" spacer to clear the calipers. My rear calipers were already ground on to fit the 15's. 15's are nice cause there are some X275 guys local and I can get their takeoffs for cheap. I don't think you will need to keep anything to make weight, in fact I think you'll need to gut everything possible. Your minimum weight in B/PS will be 3005lbs with you on board. I'm pretty sure it would be impossible to get that light with all the pure stock required stuff on there. C/PS would be 3320 lbs. Im shooting for D/PS with a minimum race weight of 3635. As it is my car with my fat *** in it is quite a bit over that. Im nervous about the factory rear. I have some buds who are Camaro guru's. All of em said the factory rear will start giving me fits when we get down into the 1.70/60/50 shorty times. This car might eventually be a crate motor car so although I don't want to spend the coin right now, a 12 bolt is in its future. Look up LS1tech.com. More Camaro/Firebird info than you will ever need. One thing that I found REALLY useful, in the racing section there is a sticky for all weight reduction parts and just about everything you can gut and what it weighs. Get BUSY Bro!

PS; Do some homework before you buy a converter, I was looking at a couple used Yank units but all were for an LS motor. Was told x2 that an LS converter wouldn't fit a LT1. Pad spacing or ??? different.

[Dan Fahey]

Here is my Engine with a Secret Velocity Stack..

Can you identify it?

D

Originally Posted by KennyAnderson

1/2 a second from a cam and headers is AWESOME!!! What is your car rated at for hp Scott? What et's and mph do you run. I have a bud with a late model LS1 vette he built into an NHRA legal stocker with mainly just bolt ons. Runs quite a bit under the index. REALLY peaves the stocker guys when he drives it into the racetrack and goes waayyy under and goes rounds.

350 is the factory HP and I believe it's at 345 now with NHRA/IHRA. At one time recently I think it was 340. The AFHS is very, very favorable in the C5. Our best ET is 11.74 @113 on a 12.45 index. That was at about 2000' DA and 150 lbs. heavy for B. My wife has been putting runs on the car and she is 140 lbs. lighter than me. I know in good air with her in the car it will run in the 50s and 60' 1.4x. Our goal is to be 1 second under and I don't think we are far from there in good air and on a properly prepped track.

Is Jeremy Preston who you're speaking of? We still have AC, legal plates, etc. on ours and could easily drive it out the gate and home if needed.

Scott

Originally Posted by Dan Fahey

Here is my Engine with a Secret Velocity Stack..

Can you identify it?

D

I use to remember getting those for the LT1s Dan at my local plumbing supply store. Always got a funny look when you told them what it was for.

[KennyAnderson]

Originally Posted by Tar Heel

350 is the factory HP and I believe it's at 345 now with NHRA/IHRA. At one time recently I think it was 340. The AFHS is very, very favorable in the C5. Our best ET is 11.74 @113 on a 12.45 index. That was at about 2000' DA and 150 lbs. heavy for B. My wife has been putting runs on the car and she is 140 lbs. lighter than me. I know in good air with her in the car it will run in the 50s and 60' 1.4x. Our goal is to be 1 second under and I don't think we are far from there in good air and on a properly prepped track.

Is Jeremy Preston who you're speaking of? We still have AC, legal plates, etc. on ours and could easily drive it out the gate and home if needed.


Scott

Yes sir, Jeremy is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to late model FI cars. Luckily I have him and 3-4 other buds to help out my learning curve. All of us are pretty serious racers dabbling in late model cars for stock and or no-e/no-box bracket racing. I looks like this will be a fun experience. I really like you vette and if this turns out right might consider doing one in the future. I'll need another one when my 13yo is done with JR's.

[KennyAnderson]

Originally Posted by Dan Fahey

Here is my Engine with a Secret Velocity Stack..

Can you identify it?

D

SWEET! I have one of those in my kitchen right now! Wonder if momma will miss it?? LOL! How much was that worth Dan? As quirky as these things seem I wouldn't be surprised if it picked you up a dime.

[Dan Fahey]

Originally Posted by Tar Heel

I use to remember getting those for the LT1s Dan at my local plumbing supply store. Always got a funny look when you told them what it was for.

The Last time I replaced the garbage disposal.
It came with a new Drain.
Noticed the Drain was 3 inches. Remembered the B-body MAF was 3 inches.
Used a coupling from the original First and Second base intake set up.
Fit like it was designed that way.

Do not know if it adds HP. But leans in that direction.
At the track it gets a lot of big smiles.

D