B/PS lt1 formula

[ss3011]

1993 was the only year that had a 700-R4 (4L60) but not the "e" version. Also the engine did not use a MAF sensor. When did IHRA drop the requirement that the correct part number camshaft be used ?

[Dan Fahey]

Originally Posted by ss3011

1993 was the only year that had a 700-R4 (4L60) but not the "e" version. Also the engine did not use a MAF sensor. When did IHRA drop the requirement that the correct part number camshaft be used ?

I do not know that answer on the camshaft.
Mike Baker confirmed the rule in the IHRA book.
And model cam for my Impala SS

D

[ss3011]

I should have read the rule book before I commented on the camshaft question. The rule is " aftermarket cams allowed per horsepower claimed. Must check on or under factory specs for lift, duration, and overlap. "

This is like how NHRA stock class rules were back in the early 80's . That information along with the checking clearances was in the engine specs. Now all that is checked is lift. The duration, overlap, and checking clearances are not published anymore. I would bet NHRA doesn't even require that info from the OEM's , just the lift .

I remember back awhile a guy was trying to race a car in Pure Stock, and asked where to get those specs. I don't remember if he ever got a resolution.

[KennyAnderson]

Morning Russell,

I am the guy building the 93 Z-28. Just getting started as a matter of fact. Bought the car from a local guy who was already racing it in no-e here at home. All it has is a mail order chip in it. According to Jim Woods it is a natural C/PS although I plan on dropping down to D. I don't think I could get it light enough to really be a factor in B. As it sits its 100 lbs over for D mainly due to the nut behind the wheel, me. When my son takes over we will be good for C. This car is for him when he is done with JR's next season. I just bought an FTI 3800 stall converter and lock-up eliminator kit (Sorry Dan. Good friends w/ Greg and Troy Williams @ FTI and they made me a killer deal). Lock-up removes 6 lbs of rotating mass from the converter and this car wont see much if any street time. I was looking for more stall but with a max power @ around 5500 more than one guy felt like it would be to close to power levels on the shift fall back. I plan on putting in 4.10 gears and have some headers coming. I will use some small flowmasters and put dumps under the car. This should make a tad bit more power but more importantly cuts 50 lbs of junk removing the X pipe/cats/over the rear exhaust. The car runs 9.oh's and teens in the eigth right now so I need 7 tenths just to play since D has an 8.50 index. Hoping to make the IHRA race in Lakeland in a couple weeks but time is running low and I am busy as a 1 armed paper hanger. Plan on getting converter in and all a/c heater stuff out next week. I'll keep you posted and look forward to checking out your build.

[russellauto1]

THANKS kenny, That is some Great information. I was kinda looking at the same converter, but wasn't sure of the stall. I was leaning towards 4.10 or 4.56. I am still gonna use 7.5 rear axle but weld axle tubes, rear support and some other modds that some of the mustang guys do. As far as the exhaust, right now I have shorty headers with a aftermarket y pipe. Gonna do some research on what I can do there. I think I am going to leave a/c on cr for now. Just so I can make weight and cool off. What wheels are you going to run? I am unsure of the rear back spacing I should get. But I may get some 16" so I can put drag radials on the rear. Thanks for the info from Everyone and Keep it coming. It makes me think a little hard!!!

[ss3011]

GM sells a A/C delete pulley that replaces the A/C compressor. PN 10115875 .

[Mike Taylor 3601]

russelauto1
I have converter you may be interested in,is vigilante was in LS car w/4L60E,I think will fit 700R4 also, they rate it 3800-4200 is a non lock up has maybe 15 street miles since new,still has white grease on neck from install. can look for serial # if want more info.
will sell for 375.00 if interested call me 606-678-3039 shop 606 278 0601 cell
Mike Taylor 3601

[KennyAnderson]

Originally Posted by russellauto1

THANKS kenny, That is some Great information. I was kinda looking at the same converter, but wasn't sure of the stall. I was leaning towards 4.10 or 4.56. I am still gonna use 7.5 rear axle but weld axle tubes, rear support and some other modds that some of the mustang guys do. As far as the exhaust, right now I have shorty headers with a aftermarket y pipe. Gonna do some research on what I can do there. I think I am going to leave a/c on cr for now. Just so I can make weight and cool off. What wheels are you going to run? I am unsure of the rear back spacing I should get. But I may get some 16" so I can put drag radials on the rear. Thanks for the info from Everyone and Keep it coming. It makes me think a little hard!!!

Hey Aaron, You are welcome and I'm excited I'm not alone in this endeavor! I bought some 15 x 8 Weld Pro Stars off a member here. Have a 5.5" backspacing and fit perfect. A 15 x 10 with a 7.5" backspace also fits. I used some regular 15 x 4 frontrunners on the front although my wheels had 27" Goodyears and they look like tractor tires! LOL! Going to get some 25"-26". On the rear I have MT 275 street radials. Great tires and they hook really good with this setup. The front wheels will require a 5/16" spacer to clear the calipers. My rear calipers were already ground on to fit the 15's. 15's are nice cause there are some X275 guys local and I can get their takeoffs for cheap. I don't think you will need to keep anything to make weight, in fact I think you'll need to gut everything possible. Your minimum weight in B/PS will be 3005lbs with you on board. I'm pretty sure it would be impossible to get that light with all the pure stock required stuff on there. C/PS would be 3320 lbs. Im shooting for D/PS with a minimum race weight of 3635. As it is my car with my fat *** in it is quite a bit over that. Im nervous about the factory rear. I have some buds who are Camaro guru's. All of em said the factory rear will start giving me fits when we get down into the 1.70/60/50 shorty times. This car might eventually be a crate motor car so although I don't want to spend the coin right now, a 12 bolt is in its future. Look up LS1tech.com. More Camaro/Firebird info than you will ever need. One thing that I found REALLY useful, in the racing section there is a sticky for all weight reduction parts and just about everything you can gut and what it weighs. Get BUSY Bro!

[KennyAnderson]

Originally Posted by KennyAnderson

Hey Aaron, You are welcome and I'm excited I'm not alone in this endeavor! I bought some 15 x 8 Weld Pro Stars off a member here. Have a 5.5" backspacing and fit perfect. A 15 x 10 with a 7.5" backspace also fits. I used some regular 15 x 4 frontrunners on the front although my wheels had 27" Goodyears and they look like tractor tires! LOL! Going to get some 25"-26". On the rear I have MT 275 street radials. Great tires and they hook really good with this setup. The front wheels will require a 5/16" spacer to clear the calipers. My rear calipers were already ground on to fit the 15's. 15's are nice cause there are some X275 guys local and I can get their takeoffs for cheap. I don't think you will need to keep anything to make weight, in fact I think you'll need to gut everything possible. Your minimum weight in B/PS will be 3005lbs with you on board. I'm pretty sure it would be impossible to get that light with all the pure stock required stuff on there. C/PS would be 3320 lbs. Im shooting for D/PS with a minimum race weight of 3635. As it is my car with my fat *** in it is quite a bit over that. Im nervous about the factory rear. I have some buds who are Camaro guru's. All of em said the factory rear will start giving me fits when we get down into the 1.70/60/50 shorty times. This car might eventually be a crate motor car so although I don't want to spend the coin right now, a 12 bolt is in its future. Look up LS1tech.com. More Camaro/Firebird info than you will ever need. One thing that I found REALLY useful, in the racing section there is a sticky for all weight reduction parts and just about everything you can gut and what it weighs. Get BUSY Bro!

PS; Do some homework before you buy a converter, I was looking at a couple used Yank units but all were for an LS motor. Was told x2 that an LS converter wouldn't fit a LT1. Pad spacing or ??? different.

[Dan Fahey]

Here is my Engine with a Secret Velocity Stack..

Can you identify it?

D