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#11 |
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#12 |
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#13 |
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and about the aluminum drums. Be careful about drums that have been machined several times and are way over the safe spec limit. They have been known to break away from the flange.
Because of the rarity they have become pricey and finding a pair within spec is a problem.
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Larry Woodfin 471W |
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#14 | |
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Use at your own risk. I've never had any trouble with good ones. I've got one pair left that I don't think I want to use...Maybe on a U/SA car ;-)
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#15 |
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Personally, I wouldn't use aluminum drums. I put a pair on the rear of my car about 10-12 years ago. A close friend that worked in a brake shop told me to watch them close because they were noted for cracking the inner steel liner. Sure enough, within a couple of months there were cracks evident, so I tossed them. There's been a couple of stockers that I know of personally that went into the sand trap after breaking an aluminum drum.
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Jim Kaekel 3836 STK |
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#16 |
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Over my years as a techman I have been sent to the far end a few times to check on cars with brake failure. I have seen my share of broken aluminum brake drums that caused the problem. While they may be worth a couple hundredths, stopping safely run after run seems more worthwhile.
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#18 |
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Don't for get to readjust the rears after three or four runs or you may see your car wanting to creep through the lights. If you two step it will creep worse, also check yearly to see if the backing plate bolt holes have stretched. When you change rear tires from side to side pull the drums off and dump the break dust. We could hold the Cuda at 3200rpm with 1.75" X10" drums.
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#19 |
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I am currently converting my footbrake car into a stocker... It has 4 wheel drum brakes (never had a problem out of them..).. is it worth the money to go to 4 wheel disc brakes?
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#20 |
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How much weight do you want to lose vs cost? If you are stopping fine now with drum brakes, save your money. If you need to go on a weight saving spree, spend the big money on aftermarket lightweight disc brakes.
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