|
|
![]() |
#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 33
Likes: 64
Liked 11 Times in 6 Posts
|
![]()
doctordiff@gmail.com
(406)883-4772 10-6 Mountain Time, M-F http://www.ebay.com/itm/67-72-Mopar-...99e6c2&vxp=mtr Is this what you are looking for? Tony |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Coraopolis, Pa.
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
![]()
The old school front end shop fix for this is pretty simple.....all you need to do is with a small hammer take and tap the ball joint flange in the A arm reducing it's diameter to the point where the bottom of the new ball joint still slips in but the threaded portion does not.....screw in the new ball til it seats then put a couple small tack welds on it and you are done......
D L Rambo STK 1300 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 101
Likes: 89
Liked 62 Times in 17 Posts
|
![]()
I used Moog ball joints on my 68 A-Body that has 73-76 front suspension.
The paperwork Moog supplied said "thread ball joint squarely into control arm until shoulder of ball joint is firmly seated against the arm. If torque required to seat the housing is less than 125 ft-lbs, the control arm must be replaced." I can't remember what mine checked at, but well over 125 ft-lbs. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 583
Likes: 8
Liked 54 Times in 27 Posts
|
![]()
I would rather not weld on heat-treated ball joint housings. I'd look into red Loctite on the threads, and welding a strap across the joint onto the A arm.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Boulder City, Nevada 89005
Posts: 2,733
Likes: 2,799
Liked 2,483 Times in 697 Posts
|
![]()
Thanks for all the Excellent Advise.....I think I will buy the
new reproduction stuff When you consider the lower joints alone are 50 each it makes to package not that bad! Thanks Again!! ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|