What Race Oil do you trust?

[ron mattson]

What everyone needs to do is read the article on speedtalk as it will enlighten you, if your
adding additives you got the wrong oil? I think not, and stay away from moly? almost every
good race oil has moly in it including Joe Gibbs, it says so right on the bottle.
It is the type of moly that matters, it has to be soluble moly in liquid form not powdered moly disulfide. the
oil you buy packaged has a certain amount of zinc-phosphorus-moly and other antiwear
antifriction materials in it, does that absolutely mean it cant be better I dont think so. the oil
companies have to make money on this stuff and the additive package is the bigger expense
not the base oil. Think about it Gibbs wasnt marketing oil til a few years ago do
you think they just used mobil one and said i think there could be something better, they

were adding additives and found something and decided to start marketing oil. Right
now there are prostock guys playing with shelf racing oil and putting there own "secret"
blend of additives in and giving to stocker guys and its supposedly worth .10, i havent
tried it but can tell you there are serious differences in the commercially available race
oils you can buy, check out the article on speedtalk and look at the ratio of additives that
they list and see how your favorite oil placed and who is at the top and how much of each
additive they had.

[ron mattson]

Also what Ed said post #35 very true!!!!

[Wade_Owens]

Ron, welcome to the discussion, I new you would have some ideas, too.

Wade

[Reed Granrt]

Originally Posted by ron mattson

What everyone needs to do is read the article on speedtalk as it will enlighten you, if your
adding additives you got the wrong oil? I think not, and stay away from moly? almost every
good race oil has moly in it including Joe Gibbs, it says so right on the bottle.
It is the type of moly that matters, it has to be soluble moly in liquid form not powdered moly disulfide. the
oil you buy packaged has a certain amount of zinc-phosphorus-moly and other antiwear
antifriction materials in it, does that absolutely mean it cant be better I dont think so. the oil
companies have to make money on this stuff and the additive package is the bigger expense
not the base oil. Think about it Gibbs wasnt marketing oil til a few years ago do
you think they just used mobil one and said i think there could be something better, they

were adding additives and found something and decided to start marketing oil. Right
now there are prostock guys playing with shelf racing oil and putting there own "secret"
blend of additives in and giving to stocker guys and its supposedly worth .10, i havent
tried it but can tell you there are serious differences in the commercially available race
oils you can buy, check out the article on speedtalk and look at the ratio of additives that
they list and see how your favorite oil placed and who is at the top and how much of each
additive they had.

Ron
I totally agree on Moly. I am sorry if I came across about Moly being in oil. My purpose was to say, I do not add any Moly. The oil companies know what needs to be added to make their oil work and many use Moly but for me to add Moly is wrong in that it may clash with what they already have in it. Yes I have seen people mix their on additives and as I stated, you can make it go faster or last longer. It is a fine line to walk.
Ed, you can be correct in mixing Mobil 1 and your additive for yourself but I have torn down many engines with terrible consequences from playing Chemist. Some will work and some will not but I myself will not build an engine and tell them to mix themself. If you tell them to add one additive, then it has to be better if you add two,,right.
reed

[njk53]

I'm with Ed. Mobil 1 is not only a quality motor oil, it is a whole lot cheaper than some of the other racing oils, so you can change it more often if you chose to do so. I spoke to a Mobil engineer about a year or so ago and he stated that you should not have to run an additive with any Mobil 1 Synthetic oil if you are running a flat tappet camshaft. I use the Comp Cams additive to provide me a higher degree of confidence when it comes to wear. Maybe I am wasting my money but, we have had no issues with the oil/additive combination we use.

[JCChildress]

Has anyone tried the new "Maxima Race Oil " ?

We use a lot of Shaefer Racing oil and we build round track engines and have had excellent results with it. We use Spectro break in oil and we build lots of flat tappet,high spring pressure engines.

[chevy620]

We use Schaeffer Oils in our engines (we are using 5-50 Supreme Synthetic in the 632" (right now). I used their 5-30 in my Stocker with no ill effects and it was faster than 20 Redline. (at least in my engine).

I have used Blackstone Labs to do my Used Oil Analysis. If you haven't done that I highly recommend them. You can find out EXACTLY what is going on in your engine after each oil change and monitor the change or spot early problems.

I tried the Comp Cams 15-50 Break-In oil on the dyno and when we sent it in Blackstone's rep wrote a nice email that stated it has the highest zinc, phosphorus and Calcium package they had seen in a while. He recommended I stay with it vs the Schaeffers I had been sending in, I have 10 1-gallon jugs of Schaeffers so I will use that up and go back to the Comp Cams Break-in. It is a litttle heavy for stock but with that much Zinc it might be worth running and change oil for a heads up and save the oil to use again.

I think oil filters are as important as the oil. I keep thinking K&N should be the best but my engine guy is stuck on WIX racing filtes, what are your opinions (don't want to steal the thread, sorry, I may ask that on a different thread.

Jok

[ron mattson]

We used to sell Schaeffer Oil and it is a good product, its right there with the high end
race oils as far as performance at a substantially better price but like all passenger
car oils the zddp package is reduced because of emissions so add a little zinc approx
2500 ppm and you have a very good race oil. As far as WIX filters go i would stay with
them as they are a very well built filter with the correct media for a race engine, a little
higher micron rating for high flow and less pumping restriction.

[Ed Wright]

I use NAPA filters, which are made by Wix. Cut one apart along with a Fram. I have not seen inside a K&N.