1970 nova motor choices

hamlinmotorsports · 08-16-2012, 12:29 PM

Terry I'm in the Dallas tx area

Greg I'd love to buy a turn key motor just don't have that kinda of money laying around or I would

jmcarter · 08-16-2012, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hamlinmotorsports

Terry I'm in the Dallas tx area

Greg I'd love to buy a turn key motor just don't have that kinda of money laying around or I would

Borrow the money to buy Johnny's, trust me you'll be WAY ahead compared to a lot of trial and error, breakage and still not being able to hit the index.

Jim Whitehead · 08-16-2012, 06:02 PM

Well if you are on a Budget, i would build a 350-255 hp or 300hp only difference in the two engines are the cylinder heads. They are a very common combination, lots of people run them and lots of engine builders know them. I suggest you stay away from Big Blocks, as they will eat up your money fast. Good luck, nice to see someone that wants to build a class car.
Jim

Alan Roehrich · 08-16-2012, 07:51 PM

If you're on a budget, a 255/350 or a 300/350. I'd lean toward the 300/350, but you may find a solid 255/350 for sale.

If you start from scratch, you cannot hope to build a competitive engine for what you can buy one for used from a good running car. There are too many parts to sort through where you may need to buy multiple cores before you get a really good core. You'll also spend a ton on the "learning curve", buying valves, having valve jobs done and redone, buying camshafts, etc.

Buying an engine a piece at a time and getting someone to put it together probably won't happen, and you likely won't find anyone to do it, never mind save any money. When you buy a race engine for a class car, or pay to have one built, you are not just buying parts and paying for labor. You're paying the builder for his knowledge and experience. Knowledge in class racing comes from expensive and labor intensive R&D.

You also need to decide on an automatic or a stick.

tj310 · 08-16-2012, 09:37 PM

Buying an engine by piece is more expensive than buying a complete used motor. I'd work on the chassis, clutch and suspension first and worry about the legal ,trick and or best later. Nothing wrong with a 402 ,
---Trevor

Grant Eldridge · 08-16-2012, 10:32 PM

We raced a '70 Nova and started with a very budget 396/350hp combo. In the first engine were well used street TRW heavy forged pistons, nothing trick or high dollar just careful assembly, torque plate hone, attention to detail and tuning. In E/SA at 3570 lbs it ran 11.39. The index now is 11.70, so still 3 tenths under with junk. We claimed the car as 1969 and used the parts for that combo. Next year we "stepped up" and bought CP pistons, "stroked" .012" crank H beam rods etc. Eventually, after lots of converters, cams, headers, trick carb and suspension changes our best passes were 10.73 and 121.32mph with a 1.41 60 foot. That car is a pretty good combination, in my opinion, and you could start out as I did with cheap stuff to get the basic combination out to the track. There was another thread the other day "396/325 hp" on here with several sets of heads offered for sale to start with-they are the same casting numbers that are legal. The manifold is an orphan for 1969, you need that specific year I believe, but these parts are not too hard to find or expensive. Bullet could supply a cam, tool steel lifters are $$ but probably safer than the Schubeck/smith ones IMHO. I'd focus on high quality machine work, reduced drag in the short block through careful ring package selection, maybe assemble it yourself if you have done engine work before.
Someone posted earlier, correctly, that it is way cheaper to buy a good engine used than you could possibly build even doing it yourself. I've seen stocker engines on here for $5000., I'm guessing a "name" engine new would be $15,000.-$20,000. carb to oil pan for Chev, more for anything else. It's a great challenge, but to go fast be prepared to spend lots of money, time and effort trying things.
Grant Eldridge
E/SA 6650
National Record Holder 2011

Mark Yacavone · 08-16-2012, 10:33 PM

Question:
Why do most of you guys want this guy to end up in F, G, H /SA ?

He's a beginner on a budget. He'll get his a** handed to him regularly in heads up runs in those classes.
Big block scenario is even worse.

Todd Bailey · 08-16-2012, 10:53 PM

Don't worry too much about the year. I'm having a '70 Nova built (South of Dallas, if interested) and will be claiming it as a '69 to run the 255/350 in G/SA. Luckily, I found a complete Woodrow Josey motor for less then five grand to get me started. Listen to the guys on this site because their experience is invaluable. I have a file from Classracer with inputs concerning most everything in building a car as to what works, what doesn't and what to buy and not buy. If the creek don't rise, I will be out there next year.

08-16-2012, 12:29 PM	#1
hamlinmotorsports Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 22 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: 1970 nova motor choices Terry I'm in the Dallas tx area Greg I'd love to buy a turn key motor just don't have that kinda of money laying around or I would

08-16-2012, 06:02 PM	#3
Jim Whitehead Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: MA. Posts: 289 Likes: 155 Liked 150 Times in 41 Posts	Re: 1970 nova motor choices Well if you are on a Budget, i would build a 350-255 hp or 300hp only difference in the two engines are the cylinder heads. They are a very common combination, lots of people run them and lots of engine builders know them. I suggest you stay away from Big Blocks, as they will eat up your money fast. Good luck, nice to see someone that wants to build a class car. Jim

08-16-2012, 07:51 PM	#4
Alan Roehrich Veteran Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Murfreesboro TN Posts: 5,136 Likes: 1,617 Liked 1,925 Times in 432 Posts	Re: 1970 nova motor choices If you're on a budget, a 255/350 or a 300/350. I'd lean toward the 300/350, but you may find a solid 255/350 for sale. If you start from scratch, you cannot hope to build a competitive engine for what you can buy one for used from a good running car. There are too many parts to sort through where you may need to buy multiple cores before you get a really good core. You'll also spend a ton on the "learning curve", buying valves, having valve jobs done and redone, buying camshafts, etc. Buying an engine a piece at a time and getting someone to put it together probably won't happen, and you likely won't find anyone to do it, never mind save any money. When you buy a race engine for a class car, or pay to have one built, you are not just buying parts and paying for labor. You're paying the builder for his knowledge and experience. Knowledge in class racing comes from expensive and labor intensive R&D. You also need to decide on an automatic or a stick. __________________ Alan Roehrich 212A G/S

08-16-2012, 09:37 PM	#5
tj310 Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Dresden On. Canada Posts: 460 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: 1970 nova motor choices Buying an engine by piece is more expensive than buying a complete used motor. I'd work on the chassis, clutch and suspension first and worry about the legal ,trick and or best later. Nothing wrong with a 402 , ---Trevor

08-16-2012, 10:32 PM	#6
Grant Eldridge Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 124 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: 1970 nova motor choices We raced a '70 Nova and started with a very budget 396/350hp combo. In the first engine were well used street TRW heavy forged pistons, nothing trick or high dollar just careful assembly, torque plate hone, attention to detail and tuning. In E/SA at 3570 lbs it ran 11.39. The index now is 11.70, so still 3 tenths under with junk. We claimed the car as 1969 and used the parts for that combo. Next year we "stepped up" and bought CP pistons, "stroked" .012" crank H beam rods etc. Eventually, after lots of converters, cams, headers, trick carb and suspension changes our best passes were 10.73 and 121.32mph with a 1.41 60 foot. That car is a pretty good combination, in my opinion, and you could start out as I did with cheap stuff to get the basic combination out to the track. There was another thread the other day "396/325 hp" on here with several sets of heads offered for sale to start with-they are the same casting numbers that are legal. The manifold is an orphan for 1969, you need that specific year I believe, but these parts are not too hard to find or expensive. Bullet could supply a cam, tool steel lifters are $$ but probably safer than the Schubeck/smith ones IMHO. I'd focus on high quality machine work, reduced drag in the short block through careful ring package selection, maybe assemble it yourself if you have done engine work before. Someone posted earlier, correctly, that it is way cheaper to buy a good engine used than you could possibly build even doing it yourself. I've seen stocker engines on here for $5000., I'm guessing a "name" engine new would be $15,000.-$20,000. carb to oil pan for Chev, more for anything else. It's a great challenge, but to go fast be prepared to spend lots of money, time and effort trying things. Grant Eldridge E/SA 6650 National Record Holder 2011

08-16-2012, 10:33 PM	#7
Mark Yacavone Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Miles From Nowhere Posts: 7,840 Likes: 2,934 Liked 5,152 Times in 1,966 Posts	Re: 1970 nova motor choices Question: Why do most of you guys want this guy to end up in F, G, H /SA ? He's a beginner on a budget. He'll get his a** handed to him regularly in heads up runs in those classes. Big block scenario is even worse. __________________ "We are lucky we don't get as much Government as we pay for." Will Rogers

08-16-2012, 10:53 PM	#8
Todd Bailey Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Houston Posts: 312 Likes: 31 Liked 33 Times in 17 Posts	Re: 1970 nova motor choices Don't worry too much about the year. I'm having a '70 Nova built (South of Dallas, if interested) and will be claiming it as a '69 to run the 255/350 in G/SA. Luckily, I found a complete Woodrow Josey motor for less then five grand to get me started. Listen to the guys on this site because their experience is invaluable. I have a file from Classracer with inputs concerning most everything in building a car as to what works, what doesn't and what to buy and not buy. If the creek don't rise, I will be out there next year.