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#1 |
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Shouldn't the ignition and the fuel pump be controlled by the same switch? I've got a separate switch for the fuel pump relay, but it's fed by the ignition circuit, so I can kill the motor and fuel pump together.
I use a Moroso panel with 4 toggle switches - one each for the ignition, water pump, fan and fuel pump. Shutting off the motor at the master-switch might also be hurting the diodes in the alternator. Lew
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Lew Silverman #2070 "The Wagon Master" N/SA Last edited by Lew Silverman; 07-25-2012 at 08:19 PM. Reason: Spelling |
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#2 |
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Phil, did you read the instructions about run-on on the instructions?
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#3 |
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Philip... Sounds like you need to run the alternator output wire back to the battery side of your kill switch at the rear of the car (or battery positive). When you shut the switch you should have no power to the starter. If the output wire is going to the starter, you may also have your accessory wiring and ignition power taken from the same post (that's ok) but your ignition circuit still gets power if the engine is running and the output wire is connected there. (hope you can make sense of this)
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#4 |
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Does your alternator have an excitor wire? This is what "turns on" your alternator and makes it charge. If so, this wire stays hot once the voltage regulator kicks on and tries to back feed your ignition system. You can cut this excitor wire and splice in a diode. The diode will act like a one way check valve preventing the power from ever back feeding again.
Hope this helps.
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Chad Sheets | STK 319 | 10.69 | 1.39 |
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#5 | |
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