ball hone

[Alan Roehrich]

Originally Posted by randy wilson

Do you torque plate before you hone with a ball?

Ball hones are really for "surface conditioning", a 320 grit or finer ball hone really won't remove metal, unless you just hone on the block all day. You shouldn't need a torque plate, I do not use one when I ball hone.

[randy wilson]

Thank you Allen. You have been most helpful.

[randy wilson]

I guess I could at least spell your name right. Sorry Alan. Also, what exactly is the material of the ball hone to order? There are so many different materials

[Alan Roehrich]

Originally Posted by randy wilson

I guess I could at least spell your name right. Sorry Alan. Also, what exactly is the material of the ball hone to order? There are so many different materials

Randy, I'm used to people doing that, no worries.

The standard 320 abrasive is fine for "freshen up" honing. The people at Brush Research are real good about getting you what you need. Alternatively, call who ever supplies your rings (I get mine from Keith Jones at Total Seal) and have them tell you what abrasive they like.


I usually get one a little bigger than the bore size I plan to use it on, maybe by 1/8". I use my 1/2" cordless drill to run it, and use a fair amount of the Brush Research hone oil.

You need to really scrub the cylinders afterward, and the slurry from the hone will be everywhere. I use "purple power" cleaner, cut about 50/50, and scrub with bore brushes and hot water. Wipe it clean with a white lint free cloth, if the cloth doesn't stay white, wash the block again. Wipe it down with a lint free cloth saturated in Dexron.

[randy wilson]

Thanks Alan. And the rings are total seal, and they said just hit with a 320. I will make sure the block is clean. Thanks again.

[BlueOval Ralph]

Anyone ever tried coating the bores with hand cleaner the use a soft brush run by your drill? It works real well. Then pressure wash.

[Jim Wahl]

Don't worry about misspelling Roachrick's name, he's an easy going fella. Jim



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