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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Long Island, New york
Posts: 592
Likes: 131
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any new news yet?
Are you using factory stuff. mopar has some real light aluminum calipers made by trw of mexico it is I believe. have you driven car around at all. I say you can't just run it without driving it to settle all brake parts and get a real feel. Good luck Art. Chris. |
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#2 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Richmond Hill, Georgia
Posts: 2,003
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Put a new mastercylinder. Still have the problem. Bench bled the new master. Bled the brakes over and over. Doesn't seem to make a difference. The pedal seems a bit spongy. Checked all the fittings there doesn't seem to be any leaks.
On the jack stands I can ony hold the brakes to 3000 then the wheels start to turn. I think it would be a little bit more rpms with the wheels on the ground. Going to try to bleed them one more time. Tomorrow. With someone that I know can pump and hold. If it doesn't get better I'm going to put it on the ground, and try it. If not I'll just leave at 2500. I doubt there will be any trouble stopping at the finish line.
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Art Leong 2095 SS |
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#3 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Richmond Hill, Georgia
Posts: 2,003
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Put a pressure gauge on them today. With left foot only pedal I got 1100 psi on the front.
600 on the rear. Before I changed the ratio I needed 2 feet pressing as hard as I could to get to those numbers.. Does the difference from front to back seem correct? I have an adjustable proportioning valve. Hoping that when I put it on the ground I will pick up a few hundred rpms in holding against the converter.
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Art Leong 2095 SS |
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