soft brakes - why?

[Bobby Zlatkin]

Make sure you've installed all the calipars with
the bleeder valve up. At the top. Or you'll never get all the air bubles out.

[rayfin]

Try bleeding the master cyl at the fittings. If that don't work you could have a bad master cyl. Air will always go the the highest point in the system.

[gmonde]

all points mentioned are things to look at ,, normaly what i do is install the master on the car and bleed it before any lines are hooke up(have a helper in the car)hook up the rest of the system and gravity bleed from each wheel untill no air bubbles are present ,,close bleeders and start bleeding from the right rear,left rear,right front,left front,if the pedal still is spongie there could be several things,,brake pedal ratio to master,,brake pad not seated correctly in the caliper,,you might have to isolate the area by capping the lines going to the front or the rear and then check the pedal for firmnees,,,you should get a presure gauge to see if you getting the proper presure at the wheels

gmonde

[Kegracing]

Thanks all for suggestions and help. I put it in right, and have checked most all the things mentioned. Think I am going to just start at the master cyl and start over with it, and see what we get. All "looks" right.

Wonder if getting wife to help bleed brakes on a racecar is a good mothers day gift???

Not sure if this will get worked on today or not!

thanks again, and keep the ideas coming

Ken

[Jim B]

Originally Posted by Bobby Zlatkin

Make sure you've installed all the calipars with
the bleeder valve up. At the top. Or you'll never get all the air bubles out.

I assume the pedal is rising after pumping. The posts cover 99% of what I've seen may cause your problem but if you are pressure bleeding the system correctly (closest to farthest point without an "X" system) I would take a real good look at Mr. Zlatkin's post. Also, make sure the master is what you think it is. (1" bore)

[Mark Yacavone]

Ken , As mentioned..Where is the push rod mounted to the brake pedal?
If it's in the PB position , it needs to come down at least an inch.
The leverage ratio and clamping force is actually better with it up high, but the pedal will never feel right to you.
First thing to check.

[Kegracing]

Thanks Mark.
Car was original 4 wheel drum, manaual brake car. Have it in the same hole. Push rod length is good.
Brakes are actually soft. At low speeds, have not had it going over about 30, have to pump brakes to get any pressure. Will stop the car, but have to pump the brakes to get pressure.

Just feels like I have air in it to me. I pressure bleed them, starting at back pass, back driver, front pass, front driver, and got all the bubbles out, then several shots of good clear fluid at each wheel, before moving on. The Wilwood wheel cylinders have 4 bleeders. I use the top, outside for each wheel...

Think I am going to just start at the MC and start over, unless I find something that I am missing.

Ken

[Jim B]

You Said "Just feels like I have air in it to me. I pressure bleed them, starting at back pass, back driver, front pass, front driver, and got all the bubbles out, then several shots of good clear fluid at each wheel, before moving on. The Wilwood wheel cylinders have 4 bleeders. I use the top, outside for each wheel..."

OK I believe that could be your problem.... in a fixed/opposing piston caliper configuration with 4 bleeders you usually need to bleed BOTH uppers in each caliper half. (Not just one)

[Kegracing]

I will try that before pulling everything apart. I called Wilwood, and they said outside should do it... but she really did not sound real positive.

Easier to start there than to start at the MC!

Thanks again everyone!

[THE LEGEND]

Put a couple of Viagra in the master cylinder. That should stiffen it up some. HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA .
Chip