little help with FWD

[tgriffith]

on my car, I have the back nearly solid so there isnt that notorous weght trans fer off the wheels also,,,,the power steering and other garbage is also gone,,,,I put an electric water pump on mine,,,,,took a moroso belt pump, cut the gear in half, mounted it backwards and it worked percect,,,I think the motor is mounted where the power steering pyump used to be,,,,it fit like it was made for it...its always an eye catcher if Im at a local test where there are other small cars (LOL)---it funny,,I have more lookers at that water pump than my other race car gets


"""I'm surprised that 24x9" slicks fit in your wheel wells, because they don't in mine...""""

they stick out about 1/2 an inch,,,,I was told that they were a littel tolerent with FWDs and Ihra dont have a problem,,,its close enough to strike up a good arguement (LOL)

on leaving at an idle,,,,the big issue I have with that is,,,,,Im really on new ground with counting the lites,,,,rite now, If I torque up to 2k and count 1--2--go on 3,,,,,lites are .03-.04,,,,,its nothing to write home about BUT considering Ive been a "see and go bottom bulb" racers for 25 years,,,,this is really something different and Im pleased.....its super easy to practice on the practice tree,,,,,Ive been told by other lite counters that is the place you want to be-----if I torque to 1500,,,its ..06 or worse-----I couldnt imagine what it would be at an ilde---In the beginning. I was hoping to block and leave on the second bulb,,,that netted a
--.350 and -.352 RED (.000 RT) ,,,just to far out to work with

the exhaust is dual individual that runs under the car and end about where the convertor used to be

are the comp shocks your using struts???
"

[tgriffith]

on the computer system,,,,I havent took the dive for a stand alone system just yet,,,,,I may not,,,it just depends on testing Ive got to do,,,,,,,,,If I understand correctly,,the computer I have (ODB ) decideds what fuel curve to give based primarily on the water sensor so...... I borrowed a high dollar snap on scanner,,,,,unhooked the water sensor and hooked the wires coming from the computer up a 2 step module and started putting in different resistors to see what water temp it thought the computer was seeing,,,,,after i got a few done from 100 to 220,,,,,,I started making runs. I also hooked up an EGT guage to see how hot the exhaust was,,,,,,the reason I used a 2 step module was so later, I could put a swith on the shifter OR use an RpM activator to switch fuel curves in high gear......it seems to work fairly well,,,,,,,the one thing I did notice, at least on mine,,,is that its extremely consistent if and ONLY IF actual water temp is in the 125 range,,,,if it climbs past 140, it slows .10 and does not repeat, even if you try to run it at 140, it wont run the same thing twice,,,,,,,,,also ,,,it doesnt appear that weather bothers the car,,,,last run 2 weeks ago was 15.57,,,,,,,,,1st run this week was 15.57 with a 7 or 800 difference in adjusted altitude,,,,,,,,the egt was reading 1335@ the 1/8 and 1475 or so @ the 1/4 mark,,

[GarysZ24]

Originally Posted by tgriffith

on my car, I have the back nearly solid so there isnt that notorous weght trans fer off the wheels also,,,,the power steering and other garbage is also gone,,,,I put an electric water pump on mine,,,,,took a moroso belt pump, cut the gear in half, mounted it backwards and it worked percect,,,I think the motor is mounted where the power steering pyump used to be,,,,it fit like it was made for it...its always an eye catcher if Im at a local test where there are other small cars (LOL)---it funny,,I have more lookers at that water pump than my other race car gets


"""I'm surprised that 24x9" slicks fit in your wheel wells, because they don't in mine...""""

they stick out about 1/2 an inch,,,,I was told that they were a littel tolerent with FWDs and Ihra dont have a problem,,,its close enough to strike up a good arguement (LOL)

on leaving at an idle,,,,the big issue I have with that is,,,,,Im really on new ground with counting the lites,,,,rite now, If I torque up to 2k and count 1--2--go on 3,,,,,lites are .03-.04,,,,,its nothing to write home about BUT considering Ive been a "see and go bottom bulb" racers for 25 years,,,,this is really something different and Im pleased.....its super easy to practice on the practice tree,,,,,Ive been told by other lite counters that is the place you want to be-----if I torque to 1500,,,its ..06 or worse-----I couldnt imagine what it would be at an ilde---In the beginning. I was hoping to block and leave on the second bulb,,,that netted a
--.350 and -.352 RED (.000 RT) ,,,just to far out to work with

the exhaust is dual individual that runs under the car and end about where the convertor used to be

are the comp shocks your using struts???
"

Nope, they're real shocks that one of my friends from the Denver, Co. area modified the lower mounting part of the shocks (bushing change or something like that), to allow it to fit in my stock housing. They were set at 70/30, and I had the option of 90/10 & 50/50.

[GarysZ24]

Originally Posted by tgriffith

on the computer system,,,,I havent took the dive for a stand alone system just yet,,,,,I may not,,,it just depends on testing Ive got to do,,,,,,,,,If I understand correctly,,the computer I have (ODB ) decideds what fuel curve to give based primarily on the water sensor so...... I borrowed a high dollar snap on scanner,,,,,unhooked the water sensor and hooked the wires coming from the computer up a 2 step module and started putting in different resistors to see what water temp it thought the computer was seeing,,,,,after i got a few done from 100 to 220,,,,,,I started making runs. I also hooked up an EGT guage to see how hot the exhaust was,,,,,,the reason I used a 2 step module was so later, I could put a swith on the shifter OR use an RpM activator to switch fuel curves in high gear......it seems to work fairly well,,,,,,,the one thing I did notice, at least on mine,,,is that its extremely consistent if and ONLY IF actual water temp is in the 125 range,,,,if it climbs past 140, it slows .10 and does not repeat, even if you try to run it at 140, it wont run the same thing twice,,,,,,,,,also ,,,it doesnt appear that weather bothers the car,,,,last run 2 weeks ago was 15.57,,,,,,,,,1st run this week was 15.57 with a 7 or 800 difference in adjusted altitude,,,,,,,,the egt was reading 1335@ the 1/8 and 1475 or so @ the 1/4 mark,,

I'm glad you're able to make a 2 step work in your car...I can't even afford the part, which now that I understand my set-up (my challenges in the 90's and early '00's, has created a car that if I lose a race it's primarily the fault of my judgement skills (which was how I managed to lose a race that I had a slight reaction-time advantage .057 vs .060), by taking too much win light.

[tgriffith]

larry,,,thanks for the "little gift " in the mail,,,,,,,,,,,,Please email me your address,,,,


I also want to thank everyone for their input and ideas .......I sometimes have a REAL problem in just overthinking my problems........

[larry dowty]

he you go pamlarrydowty@msn.com hope it works for you.

[Jim Wahl]

tgriffith,
Please email me at jimwahl@embarqmail.com. I hadn't seen this thread until today. I can help you a bunch I believe. I ran the Caddy for 18 years and had consistent 1.72 -1.75 "60 times with a best of 1.67. mine was an '88 2.8 LB6 125hp aluminum head motor. I have some things you might be interested in. Jim