Recommended Engine Oil ?

[Aubrey N Bruneau]

I'm in the process of getting my old beater ready for Mission later this month. Need to change oil. Been using a zinc fortified 30W ( no longer available ), but I know I don't need that much viscosity in an engine thst doesn't see extended driving, or high temperatures. Even fully warmed up, oil presure at 1200-1300 RPM idle, is 25-30... and goes 70+ over 2500. With the engine cool... like tring to make a fast qualifying pass, my oil pressure at RPM, goes scary high... over 80.
Don't like that.

So, do you guys have a recomendation for oil brand / type, viscosity ?
I have an unusual oil pan on my car. It's actually an over-the-counter GM replacement pan, which has an extra 2 quart capacity ( I run 7 quarts in the 8 quart system ). So, I don't have to worry about running the pan dry.

Just trying to make a few good passes there at sea level !
Hey, bringing a spare rear end pumpkin too !

[rallye bob]

Aubrey;
I think you should try Amsoil, Dominator 10W-30 Racing Oil..... In your fine ride....

[SSGN]

Brad Penn or Valvoline VR1 racing oils.Very good oils,for older cars

Kevin

[1320racer]

Everyone will recommend what they use and/or what their engine builder recommends and sells.

Further, what was the must run oil last year according to those that post on these forums isn't today, the recommendations change with the wind and who spends more $ on their marketing campain.

Me, I've been using Mobil 1 5W-30 since 1986 in my passenger cars and since 1991 in my race engines and I ain't changing because I read on a forum that some other oil is better.

Your only choice is deciding what viscosity to run as well whether you want to run conventional, semi synthetic or full synthetic. Otherwise for what you have and are doing oil is oil.

If you feel you need zinc, Lucas and others sell additives.

[Aubrey N Bruneau]

Thanks guys...
yes, I guess it's the synthetic vs mineral again.
Is there an advantage to synthetic ?
I never found one.
I guess what !'m after is stability. I never have to worry about going rounds, and being unable to cool the engine down. PLENTY of time there ! So, typically, I CAN keep the engine cool for the pass. This is why I'm leaning towards a thinner viscosity... say a 10 / 30 or even 0 / 30 synthetic. However, this engine cost me a freaking FORTUNE, and I'm probably more concerned about it's survival, than that extra 4 HP !
So, I'd like my oil pressure to be kept around 65 for a run... but have enough stability to stay there, should I be in that environment where the temperature is allowed to get up there.
People tell me that only synthetic can do this ?

[Myron Piatek]

I would recommend Amsoil synthetics as well. They have a wide variety of viscosities to fit your needs and all have high levels of zinc. Personally, I use the 5w20 Dominator. My engines exhibit excellent wear characteristics. Different viscosities will affect the average overall oil pressure.

http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbu...t%20tappet.pdf

Feel free to PM me for sources and more info.

[Glenn Briglio]

Joe Gibbs 5w-30 synthetic has worked for years while still having decent oil pressure. And the engines come apart looking really good.

[1320racer]

if the engine clearances were set correctly and it had proper lubrication there's no reason the engine shouldn't "come apart looking really good".

Joe Gibbs oil is just the latest player in the game the internet crowd is talking up, before it, Brad Penn was the flavor of the day and before it Royal Purple.

All I know is that I've been using Mobil 1 for 26 years without issue despite the changing formulas and EPA mandates and my engines always come apart looking good and my last freshen up was after 500 passes seeing 8000 in the lights every weekend, 36 weekends a season.

Good luck finding a stock/super stock racer that puts half as many passes on his engine before freshening.

[Bob]

Originally Posted by 1320racer

Good luck finding a stock/super stock racer that puts half as many passes on his engine before freshening.

Stock/Superstock engines are freshened for just that reason, to keep them fresh. Fresh ring seal and fresh valve seal.

Your not comparing apples to apples when you compare a S/SS motor to a throttle stop motor or a bracket motor.

If you have never dynoed Gibbs oils against "your oil", you might want too. There is HP to be had. But I guess when you can run an unlimited engine you don't need the extra 5 HP that a good oil can give you.

And yes, to answer your question, there are many S/SS motors with hundreds of runs on them. You are not the only racer who runs every weekend.

[1320racer]

Bob, I've been doing this a long time and I know there's a few HP to be had in oil but NOT when comparing like type and viscosities.

That said, I disagee with your claim, that "there are many S/SS motors with hundreds of runs on them" at least not in a single season. FYI, I have many friends that race stock and super stock and not one of them is putting hundreds of passes on their engine before freshening.