2010 Mustang Stocker

[ALMACK]

Originally Posted by kdanner

I bought one from them a few months ago. They don't have it listed anymore, maybe I got the last one.

I compared a black 2012 GT/CS grille side by side with my CJ grille recently. Exactly the same except the CJ is cut out everywhere on the backside between the externally visible ribs. The GT/CS grille is closed off in the back for the most part. So you can easily make one from a GT/CS grille.

Thanks for posting that info !

[kdanner]

No prob.

A lot of the special parts for these cars dry up pretty fast. I managed to get some of the mirror deletes recently, but those wouldn't be hard to make either.

Some things I wonder about though. You'd think that based on the rulebook as written, it would be OK to run an 8.8" axle instead of a 9". Based on one of the other threads here, it sounds like maybe that is not the case? Then I wonder about the 12 bolt drop out in a 9" housing, is that not allowed in stock? I'm trying to get everything together to run the NA 5.0 coyote combination, and a 9" axle is just way overkill and has too much parasitic loss.

[D.Johns]

You can run the 8.8 if you want to. The 9-inch has a couple of advantages to it but if your looking at saving some cost your 8.8 will work after you beef it up.

[kdanner]

Originally Posted by D.Johns

You can run the 8.8 if you want to. The 9-inch has a couple of advantages to it but if your looking at saving some cost your 8.8 will work after you beef it up.

Other than ease of service and more gear ratio selection I can't really think of any. Plus I already have the 8.8 with 9" ends on it and good axles.

[ALMACK]

I find it hard to believe that anyone would get bumped in tech for using a 8.8 in a 2008 + Mustang.

[Damn Yankee]

Originally Posted by Ken Miele

Rich, its fairly easy to buy all the parts you need to build a 352. The only thing you need from Ford is the heads intake and throttle body. Everything else can be bought through the aftermarket. I would go with the boss block from Ford, its a great piece that needs very little machining.

Steve, not sure about your combo, but my old combo does not using many oem parts. Such as rods, pistons, cam, valves, and on on. Everything you need for a 352 or 428 is available from Ford. Everything else is available through the aftermarket.

Not sure what your point is other than the HP factor, which is really not part of this topic.

Ken, I was looking at the HP classification between the 2010 352 at 285, and the 2013 363 at 330 ? Is this correct 45 more HP in the rating for simply increasing the bore size from 4.060 to 4.125 ? Basically identical engines plus 9 c.i.'s ?

[Ken Miele]

Originally Posted by Damn Yankee

Ken, I was looking at the HP classification between the 2010 352 at 285, and the 2013 363 at 330 ? Is this correct 45 more HP in the rating for simply increasing the bore size from 4.060 to 4.125 ? Basically identical engines plus 9 c.i.'s ?

There are some differences in the combo's. The 352 is now rated at at 312hp for the auto. The 352 has a bigger intake valve, 2.06 vs. 2.02 for the 363. The 352 has 11 less ci, with a 4.06 bore vs. the 363 4.125. All other specs and parts are them same.

On its face the 352 looks to be better at 312hp vs. 330hp for the 363, but I can't tell you why it was rated at 330. I can only guess it was a consensus between NHRA and Ford Racing.

I think it is still a good combo even at 330. The valve size to me is a wash because of the bigger bore, you should get better flow into the cylinders with the less shrouding. I also think it might be a better choice at the present time because there are none out there, you would be able to control future horse power increases.

[Rory McNeil]

Originally Posted by kdanner

Other than ease of service and more gear ratio selection I can't really think of any. Plus I already have the 8.8 with 9" ends on it and good axles.

Are you going to run an automatic or a stick? A 8.8 with an auto should be no issues, but I have a Jerico 4 speed in my M/S 85 Mustang, and I wish I had gone with a 9" instead of the 8.8. The selection of ratios is MUCH better with the 9", a 8.8 offers no ratios between 5.13 and 5.71. Also Pro gears are not available for the 8.8, I have broke 2 sets of 5.13 "street" gears in my 12 second Stocker. Also, in stock form, the 8.8 housing needs the axle tubes welded to the cast center, and tend to bend the tubes. Mine had to be straightened twice , but seems OK since we braced the tubes to the casting.

[kdanner]

Originally Posted by Rory McNeil

Are you going to run an automatic or a stick? A 8.8 with an auto should be no issues, but I have a Jerico 4 speed in my M/S 85 Mustang, and I wish I had gone with a 9" instead of the 8.8. The selection of ratios is MUCH better with the 9", a 8.8 offers no ratios between 5.13 and 5.71. Also Pro gears are not available for the 8.8, I have broke 2 sets of 5.13 "street" gears in my 12 second Stocker. Also, in stock form, the 8.8 housing needs the axle tubes welded to the cast center, and tend to bend the tubes. Mine had to be straightened twice , but seems OK since we braced the tubes to the casting.

Definitely an automatic. In fact I'd say a "C-2" given the recent rule change. I know, I know, everyone says a 3 speed is faster. While I can see that when it is PG vs TH200, I think that there isn't much difference when it is PG vs C-4, as I don't think much of the C-4 with respect to both efficiency and reliability. So it should be real easy on the axle assy. The axle housing does already have the tubes welded.

BTW, I have read a few places that MW had an aluminum 8.8 spool, but I sure don't see one listed. Has anyone ever actually seen one?

[kdanner]

The supply of manual rack and pinions is about exhausted. No longer available through Ford, I did get one from seller rbracingford on ebay. I know Flaming River makes one too, no idea how it compares as far as weight, ratio, etc.