1995 Firebird Suspension Help

[Rob Petrie E395]

I run the S&W Racecars stuff in the back of both my stocker and bracket car. (Torque arm, pan hard, lower control arms and anti roll bar) As for the front. Get rid of the sway bar. Put the good bushings from global west in the control arms. And a set of shocks. And you should be pretty good.

[mtwilly]

Originally Posted by Rob Petrie E395

I run the S&W Racecars stuff in the back of both my stocker and bracket car. (Torque arm, pan hard, lower control arms and anti roll bar) As for the front. Get rid of the sway bar. Put the good bushings from global west in the control arms. And a set of shocks. And you should be pretty good.

Thanks, Rob! For the pan hard and lower control arms, are you using adjustable stuff or fixed, and what about relocation brackets for the control arms? Also, any thoughts on shocks and springs for the rear?

Thanks again, Rob. Greatly appreciated!

[Larry Hill]

Work on the front suspension first to get the weight to transfer to the rear. Put the car on four wheel scales race ready with the driver race ready, with helmet on and see what you have and help target where you want to go. Might want to go to 9x30 tire to get a larger contract batch front to rear.

[mtwilly]

Originally Posted by Larry Hill

Work on the front suspension first to get the weight to transfer to the rear. Put the car on four wheel scales race ready with the driver race ready, with helmet on and see what you have and help target where you want to go. Might want to go to 9x30 tire to get a larger contract batch front to rear.

Thanks for the info, Larry. 30s will have to wait until I do a new rear end. Just finished building this one with 4.56s. I'm assuming the wheelwells will have to be radiused to fit them?

[Chipper Chapman]

Originally Posted by mtwilly

Thanks, Rob! For the pan hard and lower control arms, are you using adjustable stuff or fixed, and what about relocation brackets for the control arms? Also, any thoughts on shocks and springs for the rear?

Thanks again, Rob. Greatly appreciated!

Adjustable rear lower arms and the rear lower relocation brackets actually aren’t allowed in stock, and you shouldn’t need them.

[mtwilly]

Originally Posted by Chipper Chapman

Adjustable rear lower arms and the rear lower relocation brackets actually aren’t allowed in stock, and you shouldn’t need them.

I thought that was the case. Good to know! It's nice to see that I don't need the adjustable stuff. Sometimes (for me) too many options makes it more difficult to get it nailed down! So, just the tubular bolt-in stuff with poly bushings?

[richie 2]

what first gear {trans} in those weelstanding gm stockers?

[Larry Hill]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^That depends on power level

[countrypuppy4865]

Originally Posted by mtwilly

Thanks, Rob! For the pan hard and lower control arms, are you using adjustable stuff or fixed, and what about relocation brackets for the control arms? Also, any thoughts on shocks and springs for the rear?

Thanks again, Rob. Greatly appreciated!

Tubular nonadjustable lower control arms. Frame reinforcement kit from S&W and a good anti roll bar is all you should need. Stock springs work fine if it sits too high you can remove the upper rubber from the spring. All of the stockers you see have weight in the rear. Afco shocks from Fastshocks for the front are most critical. Even stock gas back shocks work fine as long as they are in good shape.

[mtwilly]

Originally Posted by countrypuppy4865

Tubular nonadjustable lower control arms. Frame reinforcement kit from S&W and a good anti roll bar is all you should need. Stock springs work fine if it sits too high you can remove the upper rubber from the spring. All of the stockers you see have weight in the rear. Afco shocks from Fastshocks for the front are most critical. Even stock gas back shocks work fine as long as they are in good shape.

Great info! Thank you! Does the anti roll bar work with the sway bar or is the sway bar removed.