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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: NS CANADA
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Not to go completely in a different direction, but a personal experience.
Had a sbf that would hit 7000 in 1st (or neutral when I was getting mad) about 6000 in 2nd and 5800 in 3rd. Did all fuel and electrical diagnosing and was stumped. Was told valve springs by a well know engine builder but knew that wasn't the problem because the cam and springs were new. Problem, the new springs were the wrong ones for the cam I had. Swapped springs and pulled to 7500 in each gear. No load would rev clean, under load or engine accelerating slowly (in higher gears) and it would nose over and feel like the valves were floating. (hint, they were) Just another area to look.. |
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#12 |
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: oklahoma
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they can test the modules? i will take it tonmight thankx
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#13 |
Guest
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When I had the problem, it broke up all over the place. It also wouldn't rev up either.
The valve springs must be good as well. I was talking about an IGN problem. |
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#14 |
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Location: NS CANADA
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Ah, cool. I thought it was hitting a wall at 5200, didn't know it was breaking up all over.
Hopefully the module is the issue. Good luck |
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#15 | |
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Miles From Nowhere
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I would install (minimum) a 6A , Blaster coil outside the cap and away from heat, and a new pick up coil for insurance. Eliminate the trouble sources. You're only talking about maybe 300 bucks (American)
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"We are lucky we don't get as much Government as we pay for." Will Rogers |
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Brookfield, CT
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What Mark said, HEI in a stocker. You,ve got to be kidding.
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Lee Valentine 1661 STK |
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#17 |
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Tacoma, Washington
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#18 |
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Join Date: May 2006
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You'll never be able to count on a relatively stock HEI setup in a race car. The design was originally intended for engines that never saw the high side of 5500 RPM, and rarely ventured past 4000.
Sure, the aftermarket came up with several crutches over the years. Some work okay. But they're really intended for mild street use, or classes where the rules require stock ignition systems. Anything that uses an HEI module, stock or aftermarket, will fail, and will never offer maximum performance. You can "get by" using an empty HEI distributor, with only the magnetic pick up coil in it. But make absolutely certain you get a premium pick up coil for it, I have had the best results a genuine GM AC/Delco part. Also, be sure you have the correct unit for the rotation of the distributor. Do not put a pick up coil made for a clock wise rotation distributor in a distributor that rotates counter clock wise. A lot of people will tell you that it will work, but I have seen instances where it does not work well.
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Alan Roehrich 212A G/S |
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#19 |
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I have had very good results over the years using the (relatively) late model EST GM "small cap" distributors with the pick-up coil connected to an MSD 6 or 7. Just make sure that you have the correct gear for your application.
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Billy Nees 1188 STK, SS I'm not spending 100K to win 2K |
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#20 |
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I agree on the OEM pick up coils, but the early ones move back and forth with the vacuum advance. I have seen the wires break. Therefore any used ones can't be trusted.
At least you want to pull on the wires to see if they're ready to break inside the insulation.
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"We are lucky we don't get as much Government as we pay for." Will Rogers |
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