What Race Oil do you trust?

[ppmracing]

Motul 300V 5W-30 Racing oil, with Ester additiv and zink. Has one off the highest oil film strength on the market. A timken test shows it can handle 112 464 psi.

[Dyno]

I used to use the BradPenn 10-30. This last summer I switched to the Driven GP 10-30 semi- synthetic oil. Good cling! Good oil at a good price.

[Adger Smith]

You might want to try some of the Mobil High Mileage 0-20.
There are a few S/SS racers out there that have seen some benefits from it on the dyno, but they aren't talking about it.

[Dave Noll]

Originally Posted by Bobby Fazio

Reviving this thread to ask if anyone has given thought to Viscosity Index? As I understand it, the higher the VI number, the less the oil changes with temperature. In trying to be as consistent as possible in our classes- cold morning runs vs a hot laps, would it make the most sense to run oil with a high VI? I've noticed Royal Purple, Eneos, and Driven have high VI numbers.

I would also extend this question to ATF and Differential as well.

Bobby, that is how I understand VI to work. Haven't made a list though of what I want to try next and balance it with a high zinc race oil as well as ATF or diff. Currently Redline in engine and Diff.,

[curtis reed]

Originally Posted by Bobby Fazio

Reviving this thread to ask if anyone has given thought to Viscosity Index? As I understand it, the higher the VI number, the less the oil changes with temperature. In trying to be as consistent as possible in our classes- cold morning runs vs a hot laps, would it make the most sense to run oil with a high VI? I've noticed Royal Purple, Eneos, and Driven have high VI numbers.

I would also extend this question to ATF and Differential as well.

Do you monitor oil temperature? Use an oil heater? If you don't know what temp you are racing at it's hard to center on whether the oil is what is could be causing an ET difference.

[SSDiv6]

There are many great oils out there that provide lots of performance such as Schaefer, Mobil 1, Maxima, HPL and others.

At the same time, I have seen many use the Comp Cams, Total Seal and Driven Break-In oils for normal racing use. By the way, the Comp Cams and Total Seal Break-In oil are made by Driven.

When I was helping a friend of mine with his Comp Eliminator car, one the dry sump hoses was leaking. I loosened up the hose to retighten the hose and had a rag to collect and clean the excess oil. When I looked at the rag, I noticed lots of Copper and other shiny metallic material and asked the owner what oil he was using because the engine was only on its 7 run. He told me he was using one of the brands of break in oil and that his engine builder, a well know engine shop, had told him to only run break in oil. So, at the next race, the engine let go a few rods through the pan and after I took it apart, all the bearings were gone.

I had a chat with Lake Speed Jr. and Nick Ferri about the use of break in oil for normal use on a race engine. Lake Speed Jr, who is a licensed Oil Tribologist and engineer, explained to me that break in oils are just that, a break in oil to be used to breaking in the engine on the dyno or for a limited use on street engine. Nick Ferri shared that he only uses the break in oil on the dyno and then switches to the specific engine oil for the application.

For break in oil, I use Total Seal that still contains the formulation from Lubrizol that was created for breaking in NASCAR engines. For racing use, not in an order of preference, Amsoil, HPL and Maxima. For rear ends, Amsoil synthetic. For manual transmissions, either Amsoil or Type-F trans fluid. For Automatics, tractor hydraulic fluid or Amsoil.

[SSDiv6]

This is a good read about break-in and racing oils.

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/201...%20break%2Din.

[GTX JOHN]

I still run Royal Purple 5/20 Racing oil (Old 11) that I
have run literally forever. I am always pleased with
how the engine looks when rebuild time!

For Heads Up = If needed the light Dangerous Stuff
and cross our fingers.

[68Coupe]

Booby Fazio you have a PM

[Bobby Fazio]

Originally Posted by curtis reed

Do you monitor oil temperature? Use an oil heater? If you don't know what temp you are racing at it's hard to center on whether the oil is what is could be causing an ET difference.

Just Trans temp but plan on monitoring both atf and oil temp next year.