new slicks - Page 4

brent flynn · 04-25-2012, 09:10 PM

Hey Guys... i decided to go with Pheonix 9x30 bias, like i had on it before...
They are super consistent and dont take hardly a burnout to hook. My car, with a little 4.10 gear and trw/solid lifter/home port iron heads, always did 1.50 60ft times, constistantly. One day, in good air, with my brother driving, (he was about 50-60lbs lighter than me at the time... went a string of 60fts from 1.482 to 1.491 (seven passes). I ordered them today!! THanks for all the banter and advice! I was mainly wondering if radials would work without trick springs in the front... when i get springs in it, im sure the rear is working good enough to try the radials....also, a 400 with more rear gear and higher stall, will help the situation

1320racer · 04-25-2012, 10:54 PM

smart decision staying with bias slicks for your bracket car. Smarter yet had you chosen Hoosier.

brent flynn · 04-26-2012, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1320racer

smart decision staying with bias slicks for your bracket car. Smarter yet had you chosen Hoosier.

I had a set of Hoosier's...didnt care for them, but this was back in 2002... the Pheonix's are really good tires...as im sure the Goodyear's and Hoosier's are... I thought the sidewalls were too soft on the Hoosier's... i know their radials are the shiznit.... Yea, its a bracket car, but , its a stocker at heart

I may never see the #'s that some of the E/SA cars are runnin' nowadays, but , i still gonna give it a try in the near future. Gotta do it, life is short!!

1320racer · 04-26-2012, 06:29 PM

Tried them all on my Chevelle, hated the Phoenix slicks mainly cause they were flat in 48 hours. You must be running tubes and screws.

Hoosier has not only been the quickest tire but they don't leak air!

Don't run tubes and screws and never will.

brent flynn · 04-27-2012, 06:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1320racer

Tried them all on my Chevelle, hated the Phoenix slicks mainly cause they were flat in 48 hours. You must be running tubes and screws.

Hoosier has not only been the quickest tire but they don't leak air!

Don't run tubes and screws and never will.

yea...im old school...tubes and screws... when i make the leap to radials, i wont run tubes... and will most likely go with the Hoosiers , when i do.

Isaac Zane · 04-27-2012, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brent flynn

.... Yea, its a bracket car, but , its a stocker at heart

I may never see the #'s that some of the E/SA cars are runnin' nowadays, but , i still gonna give it a try in the near future. Gotta do it, life is short!!

That's it!!! Have fun! Don't worry about running the times some of those fast E/SA's are running. Just get it to run the index and start having fun..!!! If you come up against one of those fast E/SA's... make sure your light is green and make them earn a win.

Great car!

We run radials with 8" rims, and it has worked out well for us.

brent flynn · 04-27-2012, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Isaac Zane

That's it!!! Have fun! Don't worry about running the times some of those fast E/SA's are running. Just get it to run the index and start having fun..!!! If you come up against one of those fast E/SA's... make sure your light is green and make them earn a win.

Great car!

We run radials with 8" rims, and it has worked out well for us.

thanks man... that is my plan... index shouldnt be any problem... then work it down from there... just takes money and patience... its more about fun for me...and doin what ive always wanted to do

rustbucket79 · 04-28-2012, 01:08 AM

Now that you have the new slicks, focus your attention to the front suspension. There's Et waiting for you.

New control arm bushings (Energy or better) eliminate the bushing being part of the spring like bonded factory bushings. The arms must fall under their own weight. Get rid of the stock or jobber ball joints, replace with Afco low friction ball joints. I couldn't believe the difference there. (again, removing bind and friction) Get the trick front springs, or better yet, weigh the car on 4 corner scales and talk to Afco (these guys might have a better company to deal with for drag coil springs) to get a proper rated spring for your car. (I run the Moroso trick springs, had to cut a coil, then cut a further 1.5 coils to get my car to ride height over the years) Travel is very important for small tire cars, and from what I understand, even moreso with radials. I have over 5 inches of front end travel, I can top out the suspension by pulling up on the fender lip, and when I let go it settles back down to ride height, leaving about an inch between the lower control arm and the compression bump stop.

Last time out, the 60' timers weren't functioning, but the final 3 rounds: 6.655, 6.653, 6.649, so the 60's might have been fairly close.

brent flynn · 04-28-2012, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustbucket79

Now that you have the new slicks, focus your attention to the front suspension. There's Et waiting for you.

New control arm bushings (Energy or better) eliminate the bushing being part of the spring like bonded factory bushings. The arms must fall under their own weight. Get rid of the stock or jobber ball joints, replace with Afco low friction ball joints. I couldn't believe the difference there. (again, removing bind and friction) Get the trick front springs, or better yet, weigh the car on 4 corner scales and talk to Afco (these guys might have a better company to deal with for drag coil springs) to get a proper rated spring for your car. (I run the Moroso trick springs, had to cut a coil, then cut a further 1.5 coils to get my car to ride height over the years) Travel is very important for small tire cars, and from what I understand, even moreso with radials. I have over 5 inches of front end travel, I can top out the suspension by pulling up on the fender lip, and when I let go it settles back down to ride height, leaving about an inch between the lower control arm and the compression bump stop.

Last time out, the 60' timers weren't functioning, but the final 3 rounds: 6.655, 6.653, 6.649, so the 60's might have been fairly close.

thanks for the info.... the front end is my next project.... i cant wait to get that done... i can do the grunt work and luckily, i have a good front end alignment guy... he had a SS/CM '68 Camaro that ran 147mph a couple years ago...used to be Jeremy Mudd's(?) car... he redid the front end and alignment... also they had a dragster that went 7.02/190something in Comp. THere arent many guys like him around anymore...

rustbucket79 · 05-04-2012, 12:45 AM

Hopefully you find some ET in the work you put into the front end, good luck and glad to help.

04-25-2012, 09:10 PM	#31
brent flynn Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Middletown, IN Posts: 593 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: new slicks Hey Guys... i decided to go with Pheonix 9x30 bias, like i had on it before... They are super consistent and dont take hardly a burnout to hook. My car, with a little 4.10 gear and trw/solid lifter/home port iron heads, always did 1.50 60ft times, constistantly. One day, in good air, with my brother driving, (he was about 50-60lbs lighter than me at the time... went a string of 60fts from 1.482 to 1.491 (seven passes). I ordered them today!! THanks for all the banter and advice! I was mainly wondering if radials would work without trick springs in the front... when i get springs in it, im sure the rear is working good enough to try the radials....also, a 400 with more rear gear and higher stall, will help the situation __________________ 1968 Bird/TRW 455/Home ported 13's, '70 Qjet,Holley Street Dominator manifold, Comp Solid FT, 10.817/122.30/1.440 Workin' on E/SA combo 3119 E/SA

04-25-2012, 10:54 PM	#32
1320racer VIP Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: New Jersey Posts: 2,628 Likes: 160 Liked 759 Times in 379 Posts	Re: new slicks smart decision staying with bias slicks for your bracket car. Smarter yet had you chosen Hoosier.

04-26-2012, 06:29 PM	#34
1320racer VIP Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: New Jersey Posts: 2,628 Likes: 160 Liked 759 Times in 379 Posts	Re: new slicks Tried them all on my Chevelle, hated the Phoenix slicks mainly cause they were flat in 48 hours. You must be running tubes and screws. Hoosier has not only been the quickest tire but they don't leak air! Don't run tubes and screws and never will.

04-28-2012, 01:08 AM	#38
rustbucket79 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Canada Posts: 45 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: new slicks Now that you have the new slicks, focus your attention to the front suspension. There's Et waiting for you. New control arm bushings (Energy or better) eliminate the bushing being part of the spring like bonded factory bushings. The arms must fall under their own weight. Get rid of the stock or jobber ball joints, replace with Afco low friction ball joints. I couldn't believe the difference there. (again, removing bind and friction) Get the trick front springs, or better yet, weigh the car on 4 corner scales and talk to Afco (these guys might have a better company to deal with for drag coil springs) to get a proper rated spring for your car. (I run the Moroso trick springs, had to cut a coil, then cut a further 1.5 coils to get my car to ride height over the years) Travel is very important for small tire cars, and from what I understand, even moreso with radials. I have over 5 inches of front end travel, I can top out the suspension by pulling up on the fender lip, and when I let go it settles back down to ride height, leaving about an inch between the lower control arm and the compression bump stop. Last time out, the 60' timers weren't functioning, but the final 3 rounds: 6.655, 6.653, 6.649, so the 60's might have been fairly close.

05-04-2012, 12:45 AM	#40
rustbucket79 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Canada Posts: 45 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: new slicks Hopefully you find some ET in the work you put into the front end, good luck and glad to help.