new slicks

[Todd Boyer]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

THAT SAID...He asked for advice.
THAT SAID...He said he would like to move towards the car being in Stock Eliminator
THAT SAID...I offered friendly advice along the lines of his question.
THAT SAID...I have more experience than you do in the Class.
THAT SAID...Your Chevelle has an entirely different suspension than the Firebird in question and was not a even a Class car as the OP was asking about.
THAT SAID...He didn't ask about your OLD Chevelle. I'll bet he already knows about it!
THAT SAID...We get it. You don't!
THAT SAID...Go back to the mirror and repeat..."I'm wonderful, I'm special, and by-goly. I want the world to know"

THAT SAID, I think I would run the car at class legal weight now and start dialing in as such. It seems that is what the gent with the Firebird is working toward. I know that's what I'd do.

[Todd Boyer]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

You didn't mention weight in the trunk. Most stickers have considerable weight back there; high and way back. That helps considerably with consistancy and even ET. I'd suggest you get it to work on a set of bias slicks first. Once your there, it will only get better with radials.
Don't forget 9" wide wheels are also an option.

THAT SAID: Not stirring the pot here Jeff, just curious about why to start with bias tires. Cost? Consistency? Easier to get a car to 'work' with bias tires than radials ?

[Monte Howard]

Change the front springs, they are cheap and easy. Then put the CO6 Hoosier 30/9 92.5 on it and run it,then start working on the chasis for your stock eliminator endeavor.
Start out with 20-22 lbs of PSI.

[brent flynn]

Originally Posted by Monte Howard

Change the front springs, they are cheap and easy. Then put the CO6 Hoosier 30/9 92.5 on it and run it,then start working on the chasis for your stock eliminator endeavor.
Start out with 20-22 lbs of PSI.

THanks Monte... i will definitely do that when i go to radials...

thanks everyone for replies...

[Monte Howard]

Once you get it working good, go test and go up 2 psi at a time till it spins. You will pick up et From 22 psi on, I would not be surprised to see you end up running around 26 psi.

[Jeff Lee]

Originally Posted by Todd Boyer

THAT SAID: Not stirring the pot here Jeff, just curious about why to start with bias tires. Cost? Consistency? Easier to get a car to 'work' with bias tires than radials ?

A radial slick is definitely faster. BUT, if there's a problem with traction for some reason, it will kill more ET than a bias slick; i.e., radials won't recover like a bias can. My thoughts are that since this is a new endeavor, get the car completely dialed in so it will hook consistently with the bias slicks. Then once it's dialed in, throw some radials on and just go faster. At that point, you will just be playing with different pressures. Another consideration is cost. Bias is cheaper and you should get more runs on bias slicks.
I know guys that save the radials only for the heads up or faster qualifying runs.
Now...since I run a stick, radials are presently not a viable option. My opinion here is based on all those slush box racers around me.

[Tom keedle]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

A radial slick is definitely faster. BUT, if there's a problem with traction for some reason, it will kill more ET than a bias slick; i.e., radials won't recover like a bias can. My thoughts are that since this is a new endeavor, get the car completely dialed in so it will hook consistently with the bias slicks. Then once it's dialed in, throw some radials on and just go faster. At that point, you will just be playing with different pressures. Another consideration is cost. Bias is cheaper and you should get more runs on bias slicks.
I know guys that save the radials only for the heads up or faster qualifying runs.
Now...since I run a stick, radials are presently not a viable option. My opinion here is based on all those slush box racers around me.

i've been told that radials and clutches don't go together too.
why? anybody ever try it?

[brent flynn]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

A radial slick is definitely faster. BUT, if there's a problem with traction for some reason, it will kill more ET than a bias slick; i.e., radials won't recover like a bias can. My thoughts are that since this is a new endeavor, get the car completely dialed in so it will hook consistently with the bias slicks. Then once it's dialed in, throw some radials on and just go faster. At that point, you will just be playing with different pressures. Another consideration is cost. Bias is cheaper and you should get more runs on bias slicks.
I know guys that save the radials only for the heads up or faster qualifying runs.
Now...since I run a stick, radials are presently not a viable option. My opinion here is based on all those slush box racers around me.

The car is real consistent in 60ft... with my best engine, a bracket 455, it has gone 11.12/119 ... on that particular day , it went 7 runs with the 60 fts varying from 1.482 to 1.491... this was with Pheonix 9x30 bias slicks, leaving at 2000rpm ...4.10 gear. I was just curious if it was worth buying radials at this point... im a ways from getting stocker combo together and getting front end redone... I should probably go with bias tires 'til i get springs and new bushings in the front. Right now, i am just bracket racing when i can...

[1320racer]

for what you have now...a bracket car and what you are doing now...bracket racing, stay with bias slicks.

[HP HUNTER]

Originally Posted by brent flynn

Thinkin its time to get a new set of rubber for my bird...since im wanting to build the stocker combo for it, i might as well try a set of radials(9x30)...
Wondering will they work ok on 8'' wheels that i have? They are welds.
Tubeless or no? Also, will they work ok even if i dont have trick springs in the front end to help with transfer? I will eventually have some springs in it, but it may be awhile. Are the Hoosiers the recommended tires? Part No.? Thanks for your replies, Brent

the car does 1.50 60fts now...has done a string of 1.48-1.49s

30x9 Hoosier on a 10 inch rim, thats how I would do it.