Racepak Download

[MOTORSPORTS Innovations]

I put up a training vid showing how to download a run:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nClBrM_rPBY"]RP Download[/ame]

This applies to the Sportsman and V300SD that record on to the SD card.

This is the first of a series and just covers the basics such at the start time, converter slip % and the time scale. The second one will cover more details such as overlaying runs, some diagnostic stuff if the download isn't going, how to clean off the SD card etc.

Let me know of any questions or suggestions for future training pieces.

GK -
www.MotorSportsInnovations.com
609-265-2110 GKelley@MotorSportsInnovations.com

[aross6]

This is a great entry level video... thanks for making and posting! As someone who is looking into getting a Racepak this winter (talked to you maybe 3-4 weeks ago), how-to videos like these are exceptionally helpful!!! Thanks again Greg and keep 'em coming!

[JP]

Thank you

[SST159]

Greg,
Thanks for the video.
This info can be very helpful for many.
I do have a question which is:
You suggest to mark the beginning of the run when you come off the two step.
I have been setting it at the first move of the drive shaft.
My thought is that is the first movement of the car which is braking the beam on the track timer. If we are comparing data to our time slip would that not be the starting point?

[Don Eckel 111]

Originally Posted by SST159

Greg,
Thanks for the video.
This info can be very helpful for many.
I do have a question which is:
You suggest to mark the beginning of the run when you come off the two step.
I have been setting it at the first move of the drive shaft.
My thought is that is the first movement of the car which is braking the beam on the track time.

I agree that setting the zero when you come off the 2 step may be off a bit. That is where the motor begins to accelerate, and, although small, there is definitely a lag before the car moves. I also don't set mine by the driveshaft because the position of the first magnet to cross the pickup can be almost 180 degrees away. When you figure in ratios and such, that can be substantial. I like to look at the g-meter and set my zero time to the point where it begins to rise. My reason for this is that until that begins to climb, the car can't be moving. I'm interested to hear others' thoughts!

[SST159]

Originally Posted by Don Eckel 111

I agree that setting the zero when you come off the 2 step may be off a bit. That is where the motor begins to accelerate, and, although small, there is definitely a lag before the car moves. I also don't set mine by the driveshaft because the position of the first magnet to cross the pickup can be almost 180 degrees away. When you figure in ratios and such, that can be substantial. I like to look at the g-meter and set my zero time to the point where it begins to rise. My reason for this is that until that begins to climb, the car can't be moving. I'm interested to hear others' thoughts!

Don,
Good point. I agree the first G meter movement may be the way to go.
Let's see what others have to say.

[Greg Turk]

I agree with Mr. Eckel...g meter to set start time

[Tom Goldman]

When using the 8 magnet driveshaft collar on cars with numerically low rear gears ,I find the driveshaft and g-meter readings are very close.
On my car with a 4.30 rear gear there is about a .009 second difference.
I'm sure gear ratio and car weight and shock settings will greatly effect the time difference, but the 8 magnet collar gives much better resolution of the driveshaft rpm.
I noticed a huge difference between my driveshaft readings at Lebanon Valley and ones on a graph recorded with 2 magnets.
Non throttle stop cars probably don't need this resolution ,but for a car running the .90 index's it's invaluable.

[Don Eckel 111]

Originally Posted by Tom Goldman

When using the 8 magnet driveshaft collar on cars with numerically low rear gears ,I find the driveshaft and g-meter readings are very close.
On my car with a 4.30 rear gear there is about a .009 second difference.
I'm sure gear ratio and car weight and shock settings will greatly effect the time difference, but the 8 magnet collar gives much better resolution of the driveshaft rpm.
I noticed a huge difference between my driveshaft readings at Lebanon Valley and ones on a graph recorded with 2 magnets.
Non throttle stop cars probably don't need this resolution ,but for a car running the .90 index's it's invaluable.

I agree 100% that with more magnets on the collar, the movement of the car should be very close with the g-meter. With 8 (45 degrees apart), there would be next to no lag in the recorder picking up the driveshaft.

[MOTORSPORTS Innovations]

All good points. To SST159 there is no way to get any of the timing system info into a data log so we use some item in the car to start the run.

Here is what I think on the subject:

- As mention above, unless you have a 8 magnet collar, I would not recommend using the DS movement for the start point.
- Yes the G-meter is my #1 recommendation for the start point.
- I sometimes use the RPM jump when TB releases because it's a bit easier (that was the reason in the vid) and it really is the mechanical beginning of the run. If the valve body, or TB solenoid, is not releasing exactly the same this is how you see it.
- It's important to remember that this is not a permanent change to the log file - you can reset the start point at a later time.
- Sometimes if I am overlaying more than two runs I will purposely offset the start in the runs so I can see overall picture better.