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Old 05-31-2024, 01:03 PM   #101
Mark Yacavone
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Default Re: U/SA 302 ffffford build

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Originally Posted by B/S 428 View Post
Mark, no disrespect intended, please read the rulebook, it says any valve job allowed so they don't check valve angles that I know of..my apologies for taking over this thead, I'd much rather talk about the 79 mustang build..
Again, no disrespect, but the valve job refers to the angles and work done to the seat in the head. At least it used to ....

But I will be glad to carry this further in Billy's tech thread, from here on out.
Thanks
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Old 05-31-2024, 01:19 PM   #102
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Default Re: U/SA 302 ffffford build

Stock valve angle in a small block Ford is 20 degree VALVE angle - relative to the deck/cylinder head surface. ANY valve and seat angle(s) for a valve job are permitted.
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Old 05-31-2024, 01:52 PM   #103
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Default Re: U/SA 302 ffffford build

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Originally Posted by pmrphil View Post
Stock valve angle in a small block Ford is 20 degree VALVE angle - relative to the deck/cylinder head surface. ANY valve and seat angle(s) for a valve job are permitted.
I'll reply in Billy's tech thread.
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Old 05-31-2024, 07:30 PM   #104
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Default Re: U/SA 302 ffffford build

Just got in from the garage and wow, I kicked over a hornets nest! All good though, it'll be clarity for the next guy with a seat cutter and rules comprehension phobia!

gotta go, but today I finished the heads, put light springs on for break in and no valve seals. When it's broke in and I'm putting the big springs in, I'll put some seals on the intakes as well.
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Old 06-01-2024, 07:28 AM   #105
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Default Re: U/SA 302 ffffford build

Don't get carried away with your valve spring pressures!
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Old 06-01-2024, 08:35 AM   #106
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Default Re: U/SA 302 ffffford build

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Don't get carried away with your valve spring pressures!
But Billy, im going to scream this to 5000, i need big pressure! 😂😂

I was already told im way too high, ill adjust to what was recommended.
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Old 06-10-2024, 09:53 PM   #107
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Default Re: U/SA 302 ffffford build

Since a lot of the talk of valvejobs and what I was doing went on the other thread, I thought I better recap here.

So, after all the drama with spring pressure..I got a set of comp 926's and with +.050 locks and the moly retainers and then some .030 shims I forgot I had, I got it!!

Break in pressure is 50 on the seat and 150 over the nose on all + or - 5#
Running pressure will be 110-120 on the seat and 265-270 over the nose
Once that was done i rechecked all the stem heights and found a couple too tall so i trimmed them about .020 on the 4-5 i had to adjust.

Next up was a way to check the springs on the head. I cant find my checker (of course) so i made one that fits the rocker arm and a 1/4" drive torque wrench. By taking the springs on and off to confirm, i found 50" is equal to 50# on the spring. 90" is 90# etc.
Now i can confirm spring pressure on the car.

Another benefit to the tool is, i bolted the rocker arms down, then used the tool to compress the springs .400 or so and after using red marker on the tips i was able to (crudely) approximate where the rocker and spring contact. Almost all are a thin line on the stem but some are a little towards the outside which means the rocker arm is too high (or you have too long of a pushrod)
Obviously its not perfect, might of pulled too far or not far enough which would affect where it marks but generally it was pretty good.

Another good thing was when I pulled off the intake, I found that I had ground out the oil return holes and covered them with screen and epoxy...this was just an engine to move the car around the shop but apparently I took my time with it? Lol!

More good news was finding the .030 shims packed away. I also just found some hardened pushrods (for guide plates) and a HD oil pump drive shaft for a 302, new, still in the box.

Last pic is the complete intake and carb ready to install.

Bad news (there always is) I dug out some head gaskets and...they don't look right/not windsor gaskets?? I had to order some.
Since I have to wait until tomorrow anyway (NOTHING IS IN STOCK HERE!), might as well install cam and lifters and put the cover on...wait..what's up with these gaskets??,,,,chev?? WHY DO I HAVE CHEV GASKET SETS???? Then I remembered the guy across the road from me in NB ran chev open wheel stock cars and I did some heads for him and some other guys, apparently the boxes of spare gaskets are sbc/460 stuff with a bunch of sbf mixed in. This happens when you are posted every 3-4 years in the army, lol!! Movers just box it all up together.

Also bad, I have 4 sets of headers, 3 of which are for fox body mustangs with 302's...should be good right? WRONG! Fought with the long tubes and pulled the starter and still couldn't get them to fit before I realized, a lot of the longer tube headers only fit manuals and not auto's...sigh...nothing is easy. So, I painted my old trashed ones and will be reinstalling them. (the black ones in the picture to the right)
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Last edited by goinbroke2; 06-10-2024 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 06-11-2024, 08:30 PM   #108
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Default Re: U/SA 302 ffffford build

Has your build right on the back.
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Old 06-11-2024, 08:40 PM   #109
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Default Re: U/SA 302 ffffford build

According to Billy it's fffffford. LOL!
Cool picture, love 50's Fords!

Edit: forgot to say, I rec'd this in the mail today;


Your NHRA Competition License has been processed. You may print the attached PDF Temporary Competition License as proof of current NHRA License & NHRA Membership until your permanent card is received in the mail. If your card is not received within 60-days please notify your division office.

My number is 103

So close to being a "real" racer, lol!!
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Last edited by goinbroke2; 06-11-2024 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 06-12-2024, 02:37 PM   #110
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Default Re: U/SA 302 ffffford build

I?m very paranoid about wiping a lobe so everything was set, barely rolled over and ran for 35 minute?s between 2200-2500 with shots to 3000.
No leaks, everything seems good. Now to let it cool, retorque the heads and install the big springs?. Closer.
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