Dragster Parts Choices

[Rory Christianson]

Hi
Just recently purchased a new unfinished nicely fabbed 240 inch tagged 6.0 hardtail chassis
has a strange housing,carbon seat, stilleto box,midplate, spindles,nose, fuel cell
other than that a bare chassis
So I will be needing to ask for several suggestions while finishing the car so with any luck I might get some opinions from some of you on this site. Thanks in advance

I need a body for the car was hoping to get some suggestions between aluminum and fibreglass ?
I see s&w and Riggeal sell glass bodies and S&W also sell a aluminum kit but also more designed for there S&W chassis which I think mine is close I am told mine is off a Mark Williams plans I also see carbon bodies but not sure if the price justifies the weight savings........not sure which class to even run yet super comp....maybe Top Dragster
Any pros and cons ?
Thanks

[Chris Williams]

In either of the classes you're talking about (SC/TD) weight is not a crucial issue. They are far more about consistency. If you were running in Comp, then... maybe.

I have run both an aluminum and a fiberglass body on a dragster. I chose the fiberglass body on the new car because it looks so nice without all the seams. It looks great, fits well, I like it. However, it cannot be put on or removed by one person. Two is doable, three is best. This is fine at the track ("hey, buddy, got a minute?"), but at home, alone, trying to get something done, it can be a pain ("honey? I need your help with the body again").

For my builder (Joe Monden) aluminum vs. fiberglass were the same price, so I did it on style. Carbon fiber was an option, but a pricey one. Didn't see the need. You still need two (three) people to get it on/off, and as I said above, weight is not the issue in these classes.

I can't comment on the various options for builders you mention, but I can say that they key difference between aluminum and fiberglass is the question of how many people you need. That's something only you can decide.

[Rory Christianson]

Thanks Chris that info helps I thought the nice smooth look looked good also
Have to think about the on off thing I could see that being a bit of a pain at times
Ran a funny before always a issue if people were not around

I will have to check difference in shipping price also

I need to install pedals also was looking at pro werks set up and there adjustable brackets any ideas ?

Also any feedback on a decent shorty dragster glide with brake ? probably first year or so we will look at running super comp type times so the car will make somehwere 600 to 750 range so I guess a trans that will work within that range

Also know a guy selling out with a Neal Chance convertor any thoughts ? He was running bbc in a rail also said 5500 stall

Thanks in advance for any feedback

[Chris Williams]

Originally Posted by Rory Christianson

Thanks Chris that info helps I thought the nice smooth look looked good also
Have to think about the on off thing I could see that being a bit of a pain at times
Ran a funny before always a issue if people were not around

I will have to check difference in shipping price also

I need to install pedals also was looking at pro werks set up and there adjustable brackets any ideas ?

Also any feedback on a decent shorty dragster glide with brake ? probably first year or so we will look at running super comp type times so the car will make somehwere 600 to 750 range so I guess a trans that will work within that range

Also know a guy selling out with a Neal Chance convertor any thoughts ? He was running bbc in a rail also said 5500 stall

Thanks in advance for any feedback

For pedals (and brake stuff) I'm a big Wilwood fan. We use their floor mounted pedal with the dual master cylinder (two separate systems front to back). For the gas, we have a separate pedal, looks kinda like the Pro Werks one. We couldn't use the Pro Werks setup, as we have a tunnel down the middle, we need separate pedals.

For adjustability in a dragster, it's easy, just drill a bunch of holes in the floor at regular intervals and use floor mounted pedals. Just make sure you have some meat underneath to bolt to. Our car is used by me (6'2" bumping into 300lbs) and my daughter (5'1" - 125lbs) and we adjust between us by moving pedals, dash, steering, seat, etc. all within 1/2 hour.

I have two shorty powerglides, one is an ATI (and upgraded locally), one purchased from Transmission Specialties. Both are bulletproof, the TS one is in the car now, the ATI case is back at Reid getting a recert. Whoever you choose, make sure you get the 1.80 straight-cut gears -- much more reliable. We're over 1000hp, so we're north of your power requirements. Both trannys have Transmission Specialties transbrakes on them, they have been very good for us.

Converters are VERY personal. I don't know any topic that gets more people more wound up than converters. I know people who change them like I change underwear, others who do nothing but curse at their converter, some insist one versus the other and so on. I don't know anything about Chance. We use Continental Converters (talk to Chris), and love them. Mechanical diode, so they lock up nicely, we've found them very consistent. I know others who swear by Hughes. Lots of choices, just as many opinions.

Hope this helps,
Chris

[Rory Christianson]

Thanks again Chris much appreciated

I just looked at the wilwood pedal (I never think about them for pedals) it looks good
you say two masters for front and back so is this for 4 caliper rear brakes ?

How high off the floor is your tunnel ?


1.80 straight cut thanks
turbo 350 input ?

What rear gears do you suggest ? and what size of tire ?

Thanks for your time and answers much appreciated

[Chris Williams]

Originally Posted by Rory Christianson

Thanks again Chris much appreciated

I just looked at the wilwood pedal (I never think about them for pedals) it looks good
you say two masters for front and back so is this for 4 caliper rear brakes ?

How high off the floor is your tunnel ?


1.80 straight cut thanks
turbo 350 input ?

What rear gears do you suggest ? and what size of tire ?

Thanks for your time and answers much appreciated

I'm using Wilwood's dual master (think it's their 260-4894), have two brake lines running to the back, and have dual caliper rears. I have my daughter in a nearly 180mph car. Didn't want to have to explain to her mother why the brakes failed...

Haven't measured the tunnel, but my guess is maybe 3" tall? It's a glove box on top of a tunnel for fuel/wiring lines.

Rear gears and tires go together as you know. Depends on your car, your power, etc. You want to be headed through the lights just short of red line. I'm running 4.10 rear gears with 33.5/17-16s but again, we have much more engine than it sounds like you do. You need to solve this for yourself, but 4.10 is very common.

[Rory Christianson]

Thanks again for the info
Yes good choice on the brakes with the family

Yes I have not built my motor yet so I will wait a bit for gear choice as knowing myself things will probably change in that department but I am trying to restrain somewhat

So do you run a racepak ? and if so do you run there dash ?

Thanks again

[Chris Williams]

Originally Posted by Rory Christianson

So do you run a racepak ? and if so do you run there dash ?

Yes, and yes. But I'm a data geek with 25+ years in the computer business. I monitor and track everything. I have the V300SD and the IQ3 dash, and probably 50+ sensors (if you count the inputs from the EFI system). So I'm at one end of the spectrum.

[Rory Christianson]

Wow sounds pretty cool lots of info.......lots of sensors wow
so you run a efi set up ?

Do you run div. 6 ?

Thanks

[Chris Williams]

Originally Posted by Rory Christianson

Wow sounds pretty cool lots of info.......lots of sensors wow
so you run a efi set up ?

Do you run div. 6 ?

Thanks

Yes, ran the FAST XFI last year, switching to the Holley Dominator as we speak. Yes we run in D6.

Chris