Mopar E body front end alignment specs

Eric Merryfield · 08-28-2008, 11:08 AM

Changing the balljoints, anyone have the basic drag race setup alignment specs I could give to the shop?

Its 70 Challenger, 383 car, stocker, 3650 lbs with me in it.

Thanks

Eric

Moparteacher · 08-28-2008, 12:50 PM

Ideally you want 0 camber on both sides. A difference of about 1/2 degree between the left and right will cause a pull. You may want to set camber with the vehicle about 1 inch above ride height. This will simulate traveling down the track.

Caster should be the same between the right and left. It'll probably end up around 2-3-1/2 degrees positive. Too far positive may cause high speed wander and/or a low speed shimmy.

A difference between the right and left caster will cause a pull to the side with the least positive caster. More importantly a difference in caster between right and left will have a undesirable effect on toe as the body rises and falls (jounce and rebound).

The rear thrust angle is probably the most important measurement. You may need to shift the differential around to get a 0 thrust angle. Too far positive or negative and it'll take you into the wall or the other lane upon launch.

The length of your tie rods should be identical between the right and left. This will help maintain zero toe as the body lifts. Just as important is the height of the inner and outer tie rods. There is no factory adjustment for this. You can configure the the length and height of the tie rods by graphing changes in toe when lifting and lowering the body while on the alignment rack. The Mopar chassis book explains the proceedure and how to modify to correct. You should get the book.

When it's all said and done the tie rod assemblies should be the same length as the distance between the lower ball joint and the lower bushing. (the two pivot points).

The tie rods assemblies should also travel in a parallel path to the lower control arm.

The result is a zero change in toe as the body rebounds and jounces during acceleration.

Good luck. I'd like to hear about your combo, for I'm building a 69 RR 383 for stock.

08-28-2008, 11:08 AM	#1
Eric Merryfield Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 847 Likes: 1 Liked 471 Times in 114 Posts	Mopar E body front end alignment specs Changing the balljoints, anyone have the basic drag race setup alignment specs I could give to the shop? Its 70 Challenger, 383 car, stocker, 3650 lbs with me in it. Thanks Eric __________________ Eric Merryfield 1883 STK

08-28-2008, 12:50 PM	#2
Moparteacher Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Boise Posts: 49 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Mopar E body front end alignment specs Ideally you want 0 camber on both sides. A difference of about 1/2 degree between the left and right will cause a pull. You may want to set camber with the vehicle about 1 inch above ride height. This will simulate traveling down the track. Caster should be the same between the right and left. It'll probably end up around 2-3-1/2 degrees positive. Too far positive may cause high speed wander and/or a low speed shimmy. A difference between the right and left caster will cause a pull to the side with the least positive caster. More importantly a difference in caster between right and left will have a undesirable effect on toe as the body rises and falls (jounce and rebound). The rear thrust angle is probably the most important measurement. You may need to shift the differential around to get a 0 thrust angle. Too far positive or negative and it'll take you into the wall or the other lane upon launch. The length of your tie rods should be identical between the right and left. This will help maintain zero toe as the body lifts. Just as important is the height of the inner and outer tie rods. There is no factory adjustment for this. You can configure the the length and height of the tie rods by graphing changes in toe when lifting and lowering the body while on the alignment rack. The Mopar chassis book explains the proceedure and how to modify to correct. You should get the book. When it's all said and done the tie rod assemblies should be the same length as the distance between the lower ball joint and the lower bushing. (the two pivot points). The tie rods assemblies should also travel in a parallel path to the lower control arm. The result is a zero change in toe as the body rebounds and jounces during acceleration. Good luck. I'd like to hear about your combo, for I'm building a 69 RR 383 for stock. __________________ Gary Weaver Moparteacher@yahoo.com Last edited by Moparteacher; 08-28-2008 at 12:51 PM. Reason: spelling