Jerico Setup in 1995 Mustang

[Lee Jordan (3223) A/S]

I am beginning to finish my bracket car into a stocker. Its a 1994 - 95 Mustang GT with a 5.0. This was always the plan. I am currently running a C-4 with a Windsor stroker.
I have acquired a Jerico and have a Lakewood bell that needs recertified. My questions are, 1. What clutch is everyone using? 2. I am guessing I need to retain the cable system to actuate the clutch so are there any specific recommendations anyone have for this setup? 3. Do I need to run a diaphragm type clutch or can I run the typical "Soft Loc" clutch? 4. What about throw out bearing? Hydraulic or just a standard with throwout arm?

I know this is a lot of questions and I will probably have more but I don't want to buy a bunch of stuff that wont pass tech or simply just not work.

[Rory McNeil]

My Mustang was a 85, but I used the factory style cable clutch setup, and a McLeod Soft Lok unit, 10" diameter. It is my understanding that the 94-5 Mustangs had a 1" longer input shaft, and deeper bellhousing, don`t know if the Jerico and scattershield need to be like that, or if the earlier FOX stup will fit. I can say that a deeper bell would be nice, as the packaging with the clutch fork, and Long style pressure plate required the special thin, cut down clutch fork, adjustable throwout bearing, and an adjustable pivot ball stud. Even still ,it`s very tight in there. I had both the FOX Lakewood and McLeod scattershields in my Mustang, with my Flowtech headers, the McLeod fit perfectly, the Lakewood hit the headers, but not too severely.

[Lee Jordan (3223) A/S]

I appreciate the info. I used this bell in a 1982 Fox body with no issues. The clutch was a Hays non adjustable. I have the pivot ball installed and it worked good. I was using an old top loader trans in that car though. It was a street car. So it sounds like I will be good with a cable upgrade, firewall adjuster and upgraded pivot on the clutch pedal. I wonder what flywheel weight works good with the little motor?

[BRETV]

Lee, make sure you replace the plastic clutch cable quadrant under the dash with an aluminum one. The factory plastic ones are junk. We used McCleod clutchs and Youngblood clutchs and Jerico and G-force trans, all worked fine. We had a 95 Cobra R and I think Rory is correct if my memory serves me right, the 94-95 cars do need the inch longer input compared to the 79-93 cars. The lighter the better on the flywheel. You will have to do ALOT of massaging of the trans tunnel if you know what I mean, for these trannys. LOL





Bret Velde
2003 FS/??

[bykr]

If he's got a Jerico trans and a Lakewood bellhousing (std. SBF) the different input shaft length of the stock trans would be irrelevant wouldn't it?

[Matt Welker]

Mcleod soft lok, work with black magic clutches. Cale is the best for help and tuning. Single disc set up right will be good and low maintenance.

[Sean Marconette]

Lee,
If you need a bellhousing, contact Browell and get a 6.1W. The W is for a window and gives access to quick CW and base adjustment and is a cone style. The Lakewood may not recertify depending on how old it is. Clutches are going to have mixed opinions. Advanced, Black Magic and maybe a few others. I have been pleased with my Advanced clutch and Rob for many years, others are strong supporters of Cales Black Magic. Either way, call both and you decide, as they are both good people and products. As Bret pointed out, get rid of the plastic clutch quadrant. A good quality aluminum quadrant and firewall adjuster (mine is from Steeda) along with an extended clutch fork is needed. The tunnel will need work.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/15525/10002/-1

Sean

[Rod Greene]

Youngblood for the clutch NOBODY better.

[Rory McNeil]

Originally Posted by bykr

If he's got a Jerico trans and a Lakewood bellhousing (std. SBF) the different input shaft length of the stock trans would be irrelevant wouldn't it?

With the longer input shaft and deeper bellhousing, the 94-5 Mustangs would have the transmission mount about an inch further back. Probably not a big deal to work with. Also since Jericos have multiple shifter mounting holes, the shifter location is also easy to adress.

[Rory McNeil]

Concerning the Mustang clutch pedal /quadrant deal, when I built my 85 Mustang, it was originally a 4 cyl automatic car, I found the clutch/brake pedal assembly from an earlier FOX that did not use a self adjusting quadrant setup. These were used in 78-79 Fairmonts and Zephyrs, and Mustangs and Capris from 79 until 81 or 82, not sure when the quadrant style came out. This pedal uses a clutch pedal with a pin on the lever, so the clutch cable has an eyelet at the pedal end, and a threaded adjustment end for the clutch fork. I just ordered a new Pioneer clutch cable for a 79 Mustang 302 4 speed. I have used these early style pedals and cables on my Mustang Stocker, my Fairmont bracket car, and 2 different street strip Fairmonts. Simple and works great, like any cable, you just need to keep the cable away from the headers. On my cars, I used a couple of studs and Adel clamps to keep the cable tight to the engine block. As for clutches, I have been using McLeod Soft Loks with aluminum flywheels for over 20 years, with great results for over 20 years, with the Stocker, and my 427/428 FE and SB Ford stroker bracket cars. Usually get 2 seasons between rebuilds, sometimes a little longer...