super tricks

L79racer · 04-17-2007, 08:20 PM

I wanted to run the super tricks with no tubes so, I sealed the rims like I was told. When I went to put in the screws to pin the slicks they start to leak. I filled them to 30 lbs and still cant get them to hold the air around the bead. Could I try running them with no screws?? I'm scared they will roll off the rim. I noticed when we were mounting the slicks, when we filled them you never hear the bead pop. So I assume they arent that tight at the bead. Any insight would be appreciated.

348Q Mustang · 04-17-2007, 08:37 PM

You may want to check and make sure the screws are penetrating the bead of the tire. Had the same thing happen to me and after I replaced the old screws with new screws I solved my problem. The new screws had a sharper point so they went into the rubber instaed of holding the rubber away from the rims. just a thought. Gordy

Bill Belden · 04-18-2007, 09:43 AM

After you mount the tires drill into the tire bead, I used a 1/8 drill bit with a piece of tape on it to keep from drilling to deep, this solved my problem.
I found that the screws would push the bead away from the rim instead of going into the tire.

1100 I/S

Dave Goob Cook · 04-18-2007, 11:26 AM

I run 9" slicks on an 8" rim, no screws or tubes, usually if I run within a day of mounting the tires, they may slip about 1 to 2 inches on the first hit, but never move after that.
3250# car with 1.35 to 1.40 short times.

"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular"
Dave Cook
C375

L79racer · 04-18-2007, 02:52 PM

Bill, I tried the drill bit this morning and it seems to have solved the problem. Are you running super tricks?

Dave, Are you running super tricks?? I know I didnt pin my centerlines and they were fine.

Thanks for responding Guys

Bill Belden · 04-18-2007, 05:48 PM

I have the centerline warriors.
One other point, I don't use the regular screws, I drill & tap the rims for 1/4-20 allen head cap screws ground and sharpened to the right length, doesn't tear up the rim

1100 I/S

Dave Goob Cook · 04-19-2007, 08:16 AM

Mine are Weld Drag Lites, or the Cragar knock off, not sure which.

"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular"
Dave Cook
C375

Chris Cogan · 04-19-2007, 11:58 AM

Ordinary sheet metal screws create two problems. One, with a wide thread pitch screw running in and out of a soft, thin cross section, damage to the wheel is guaranteed. Two, a substantial amount of force is required for the course threads to "get a bite" into the steel cords within the tire bead. With a dull or blunt point, the result is usually the tire getting pushed away from the rim instead of the screw penetrating into the tire bead. Not to mention, sheet metal screws are quite unsightly on a set of nice aluminum wheels. There is another solution and it has been specifically designed for this application. It involves using a stainless steel threaded insert that presses into the rim along with a 12-28, button head, alloy screw with a fully threaded point that provides improved tire bead penetration. You can see what I'm talking about at www.kaizen-ms.com/products.html. Also, on the tech info page you will find details on insert and screw selection criteria (there are three different O.D.'s to choose from on the inserts and two different screw lengths). The installation instructions can also be found there. Take care.

Chris Cogan
www.kaizen-ms.com

04-17-2007, 08:20 PM	#1
L79racer Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: North Massapequa, NY Posts: 218 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	super tricks I wanted to run the super tricks with no tubes so, I sealed the rims like I was told. When I went to put in the screws to pin the slicks they start to leak. I filled them to 30 lbs and still cant get them to hold the air around the bead. Could I try running them with no screws?? I'm scared they will roll off the rim. I noticed when we were mounting the slicks, when we filled them you never hear the bead pop. So I assume they arent that tight at the bead. Any insight would be appreciated.

04-18-2007, 09:43 AM	#3
Bill Belden Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: York, PA Posts: 241 Likes: 0 Liked 1 Time in 1 Post	After you mount the tires drill into the tire bead, I used a 1/8 drill bit with a piece of tape on it to keep from drilling to deep, this solved my problem. I found that the screws would push the bead away from the rim instead of going into the tire. 1100 I/S __________________ Bill Belden Retired Stock Eliminator [emailSTK1100@comcast.net[/email]

04-18-2007, 11:26 AM	#4
Dave Goob Cook Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Indy Posts: 422 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I run 9" slicks on an 8" rim, no screws or tubes, usually if I run within a day of mounting the tires, they may slip about 1 to 2 inches on the first hit, but never move after that. 3250# car with 1.35 to 1.40 short times. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular" Dave Cook C375 __________________ "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook NHRA N375

04-18-2007, 05:48 PM	#6
Bill Belden Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: York, PA Posts: 241 Likes: 0 Liked 1 Time in 1 Post	I have the centerline warriors. One other point, I don't use the regular screws, I drill & tap the rims for 1/4-20 allen head cap screws ground and sharpened to the right length, doesn't tear up the rim 1100 I/S __________________ Bill Belden Retired Stock Eliminator [emailSTK1100@comcast.net[/email]

04-19-2007, 08:16 AM	#7
Dave Goob Cook Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Indy Posts: 422 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Mine are Weld Drag Lites, or the Cragar knock off, not sure which. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular" Dave Cook C375 __________________ "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook NHRA N375

04-17-2007, 08:37 PM	#2
348Q Mustang Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Otsego, Michigan Posts: 11 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	You may want to check and make sure the screws are penetrating the bead of the tire. Had the same thing happen to me and after I replaced the old screws with new screws I solved my problem. The new screws had a sharper point so they went into the rubber instaed of holding the rubber away from the rims. just a thought. Gordy

04-18-2007, 02:52 PM	#5
L79racer Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: North Massapequa, NY Posts: 218 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Bill, I tried the drill bit this morning and it seems to have solved the problem. Are you running super tricks? Dave, Are you running super tricks?? I know I didnt pin my centerlines and they were fine. Thanks for responding Guys

04-19-2007, 11:58 AM	#8
Chris Cogan Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Defiance, OH Posts: 47 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ordinary sheet metal screws create two problems. One, with a wide thread pitch screw running in and out of a soft, thin cross section, damage to the wheel is guaranteed. Two, a substantial amount of force is required for the course threads to "get a bite" into the steel cords within the tire bead. With a dull or blunt point, the result is usually the tire getting pushed away from the rim instead of the screw penetrating into the tire bead. Not to mention, sheet metal screws are quite unsightly on a set of nice aluminum wheels. There is another solution and it has been specifically designed for this application. It involves using a stainless steel threaded insert that presses into the rim along with a 12-28, button head, alloy screw with a fully threaded point that provides improved tire bead penetration. You can see what I'm talking about at www.kaizen-ms.com/products.html. Also, on the tech info page you will find details on insert and screw selection criteria (there are three different O.D.'s to choose from on the inserts and two different screw lengths). The installation instructions can also be found there. Take care. Chris Cogan www.kaizen-ms.com __________________ Chris Cogan