68 SS Chevelle stocker questions

[Mark Ruset]

I have one currently in my 1968 Camaro. The car has deluxe interior which has a more robust door panel. It fits like it was made at the factory.

[Greg Reimer 7376]

Definitely, you need a swing out bar. I built my first Chevelle when I was 29. I didn't have a swing out bar, but now at 65, I have had one for a long time. Makes getting in and out a lot nicer.I used a roll bar kit and cut it to fit and had a guy weld it together for me so that all I had to do was drill bolt holes in the floor and bolt it in. Make sure that you situate it to the rear enough so that you can put the seat in a comfortable location the first time, because it's way harder to move it later. Also, my main hoop mounting points are bolted to the frame with 1/2" Grade 8 bolts and lock nuts. Originally, the SS has bucket seats, my cars were all small block cars, so they had a front bench seat. In fact, my Chevelle wagon never had a roll bar in it because it never needed one. The 396 will definitely need one. Be sure you build it by the book, General Regulations chapter 4 has nice drawings and diagrams for roll bars, padding requirements, and driver restraint rules. I've never had a problem with tech with any of my cars, but it's important to build it by the rules in the first place. The Nova would achieve a greater degree of unit body stiffening with a 5 or 6 point bar, be sure and solidly tie the front subframe to the unit body, and the bar to both. I remember some big block bracket Novas and Camaros that displayed a bit of difficulty with doors closing properly after a time of racing because there was not sufficient lateral bracing due to the body taking on a twist. Best wishes on your new project!

[Larry Hill]

Don't know which one has the shortest wheelbase, but the 68 car has a four link and the Nova is a leaf spring.

[Rory Christianson]

Thanks guys for the info, ya as I'm getting older to something that is simple to get in and out of will be a goal. So a swing sounds good for sure.
Yes I have always welded my plates to the floor and bar to them, but I might look at a bolting option with the chevelle. If I do the nova I will just weld everything yes and it is a unibody type with leaf. It does not currently have a 12 bolt but the chevelle does and has the full frame.
Thanks for all the feed back helps in several ways and gets the mind thinking, try and get it right the first time.

[stocker396]

Get a rulebook for sure. You can’t use a “bolt in” rollbar in NHRA competition. Plus with a full frame you must cut holes in the floor and the bar must be welded to the frame. You will also discover the torque from the big block will want to flex the frame. There are bolt on frame stiffeners and boxing the frame helps a ton. You will also not want to use a 396 block either when searching for power. A sleeved back 454 or aftermarket block is a better investment. Good luck with your build. Do lots of research and save money. Oh and R&D for sure! (Rip-off and duplicate) lol. Just my .02 as I have been there done this.

[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by Greg Reimer 7376

I used a roll bar kit and cut it to fit and had a guy weld it together for me so that all I had to do was drill bolt holes in the floor and bolt it in. Make sure that you situate it to the rear enough so that you can put the seat in a comfortable location the first time, because it's way harder to move it later. Also, my main hoop mounting points are bolted to the frame with 1/2" Grade 8 bolts and lock nuts.

Not getting the picture here, Greg. You welded plates to the hoop , then cut big windows in the original floor? How big is the hole? How many bolts ? How long are they?

[Chipper Chapman]

Originally Posted by Rory Christianson

Hi
Just picked up 68 SS in pces, I want to turn it into a bit of a poor boys stocker before I at some point restore it all.
It is currently a 396 325hp 4 speed car.
I was wanting to run a 396 as I have a few
Not sure 4 speed or auto
Was maybe hoping to stay under the radar of a roll bar, but not written in stone.
Any pointers and advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance

My first motor will probably be a 325 hp or 350 hp as I already have a bored block and pistons so I would like to use it and as I said to get it out for the first year or two it will be somewhat of a poor boy stocker, will not be setting any class records haha. Thanks !!!

396 350hp not available in '68 Chevelle. 325 or 375 only. 350 came in 69

[Eman]

I thought a full frame car like a Chevelle the roll bar had to attach to the frame directly or with outriggers.

[FED 387]

looking at the NHRA classification guide for 1968 Chevelle SS396 cars I see it as 325HP /RPO L-35 the base engine in SS396 models--350HP/RPO L35---375HP/RPO L-78 are all accepted engines in a SS396--production numbers for base engine (325HP) were 57595 cars----L-34 (350HP) 12481 cars and L-78 (375HP)4751 cars--Correct me if I am wrong please---FED 387

[Rory Christianson]

Thanks again guys
I will get reading the stocker section in the rule book for sure been a bit, but I do agree about the frame flex for sure I have seen it happen to others.
Welding to the frame it will be.
Built a 84 camaro stocker years ago which is unibody and that's when you plate and weld to the floor,......but yes if you have a full frame it's different right remembering that now,but will get going over the book. Thanks for the tip on the block also remembering that now to, first motor is probably gong to be a more budget to get it out there and start on motor two after that. I want to run in the spring and I pretty much to the build myself so have to hustle.

No they made a 350hp ,396 in 68 it was available according to what I read.

Thanks again guys for the input !!