U/SA 302 ffffford build

[goinbroke2]

I was told I should start documenting the build. Probably a good idea as everyone has seen tons of chev and mopar builds.
So, I have a 83mustang GT that I bought in 84. Street and bracket raced it until 1997. First kid/new house/etc, etc.
Started building it as a 460 bracket car, got 68 429 close chambered heads etc....then talked to guys racing 460 fox bodies and was told a 351w is a better combo. Ok, got a 351W a set of gt40 heads and.....I want a stocker, always wanted a stocker....I have a roller 5.0 and the GT40 heads, I'll build a crate motor! (we can run them here in the maritimes) Then someone mentioned if I'm building a stocker, might as well build a real stocker. But, a 83 mustang SUCKS!! Bad heads/cam/etc. Change it to a 85? No, still bad heads, but roller cam. Nope too much to make it competitive. 302 2bbl has an awesome factor, maybe I'll do that. 302 2bbl stuff is throw away right? Should be cheap build, right?
No.
Bought a 79 mustang for the nose/hood/heads/front bumper. Had to buy a 2bbl intake with the right numbers. I swapped the nose/hood over and come to the conclusion that I should of got a western car and started with that instead of converting a bracket car back to a stocker.
Anyway, waiting for a return call from Deano carbs for the carb, trying to get a cam but logistics is getting foolish. (comp doesn't sell to Canada now) Haven't called about a converter yet but further down the road.

[goinbroke2]

Here is some work I did on it while it was still going to be a bracket car.

[goinbroke2]

As you can see, it ain't pretty! But the video on the 9" got me thinking, is there specific locations to add the ears? As in, factory 8.8 is 4" from center of axle to center of upper control arm bushing. Is this ever checked? Since it never came with a 9", it needs ears welded on, but does NHRA check that it is at factory distance? Obviously moving the ear up or down would change the instant center which is an "advantage". Not too concerned as it's the same as factory but I was just curious since you can't "weld" on suspension stuff.
(or did I miss a perfect opportunity to shut the %$%^ up??) LOL!

[goinbroke2]

I have some pics but this site only allows 1200x800 which is half a fender with my camera. Not computer savy enough to figure it out right now, lol.

In other news...I bought a milling machine to cut down the rocker arm pedestal boss and to resurface the heads. I figure I have everything to install valve guides, cut 5 angle valve jobs, might as well get a milling machine too! (wife is pissed I'm spending so much just before Christmas but, I "need" it, lol) Deck the block? All kinds of idea's now!

Spending a lot of money to go really, really slow! LOL!!!!

[Mark Yacavone]

First reply..Surely not the last LOL

With the style of uppers you have, you just about have to have the right spacing on the housing. You did miss an opportunity to make or buy adjustable heim end uppers.
Yes, you can raise the uppers on the housing. Moser's 12 bolt Chevelle rears are built that way.
I'm thinking you might have joined together two dissimilar metals on the housing though.
Not certified, but I've run a few beads in my life, so far. Might check that.

[goinbroke2]

The control arms were just to get it on the track, at some point I'll be getting adjustable uppers and perhaps go heim joints as well, good idea.

As far as the dissimilar metals, you are correct and I was thinking about that, but I did it anyway, lol. I do a lot of off roading (that's my youtube channel "low range in nova scotia" and I gob together all kinds of crap and then abuse it until it breaks). Not supposed to weld cast iron (what the rear end ears are made of) so there might be "improvements" in the future, especially if it cracks or breaks.

[Billy Nees]

You really need an 8.8!

[Henrys Toy]

Originally Posted by goinbroke2

The control arms were just to get it on the track, at some point I'll be getting adjustable uppers and perhaps go heim joints as well, good idea.

As far as the dissimilar metals, you are correct and I was thinking about that, but I did it anyway, lol. I do a lot of off roading (that's my youtube channel "low range in nova scotia" and I gob together all kinds of crap and then abuse it until it breaks). Not supposed to weld cast iron (what the rear end ears are made of) so there might be "improvements" in the future, especially if it cracks or breaks.

Good morning to all,
Welding cast iron is dicey at best, like hitting a piece of glass with a hammer. I'm thinking you should be able to fabricate what you need out of steel and make it look like the OEM pieces, then weld them to rear axel housing. One thing I've found over the years of trying to fuse cast iron is either the weld doesn't penetrate and breaks off or or the part ( cast iron ) you've welded cracks and breaks. Either of these situations are an accident looking to happen ! We're supposed to be having "fun" not getting ourselves hurt, then also factor in the cost of the Broken Parts Replacement and I think you'll find that building the right parts - the right way will actually be money well spent, the first time.
I'm really enjoying your U/SA 302 FFFFFFord build. Don't take this as a discouragement, this comes from "past experience" and the expense of replacement parts. I understand you'd like to get this project to conclusion but don't rush it. Enjoy your build.

Respectfully,
Henry Kunz 1534 H/SA

[Jeff Stout]

Originally Posted by Billy Nees

You really need an 8.8!

This. 8.8 is way better for you application

[Rory McNeil]

Originally Posted by Jeff Stout

This. 8.8 is way better for you application

Gotta agree, not to mention it`s a straight bolt in, and should be pretty easy to find a 8.8 from a 5.0 Mustang, which came with 8.8s starting in 1986, and were the same thru 1993. The only real place a 9" is better for something like this, is a wider assortment of ratios to choose from. With the 8.8, unless things have changed in recent years, there is nothing between 4.88 and 5.14, and then nothing again until 5.71. On my 85 Mustang M/S, I ran both the 4.88s and 5.14s, with 29 and 29 1/2" tall tires, with the 2 barrel deal, 28s or 26" tall tires would be an easy way to dial in the ratio/tire diameter combination. As for strength, you will never hurt the 8.8, my M/S 85 Mustang was a stick car, leaving at 6000-6200 RPM, with cheap Moser 31 spline axles, and even with my 331 bracket engine (10.2@ 129 MPH, with mid 1.3 60 foots, dropping the clutch at 62-6600 RPM), I never hurt the rearend. That said, we did weld the axle tubes to the cast center, and made braces to go from the casting to the ends of the axle tubes. Heck, even the stock 7.5 rearend that should be in the car already, would likely hold up with the 2 barrel automatic combo, not sure what the ratio selection for those is, however. For a set of cheap, easy to buy, "off the shelf" headers, I had Hedman long tubes on my street Fairmont years ago, with 1 1/2" primaries, which would be a great place to start for something like that. The 85 4 barrel combo is a pretty decent one, but stick only, is that bothers you, but with the current HP ratings, the 2 barrel is a GREAT combo, as would be the 82 "5.0 HO" 2 barrel deal, which has a larger cam and carb, but again, is a stick only deal. The heads on all the 78 thru 85 Ford 302/5.0 engines are the same 2 barrel, or 4 barrel, although the 85s do have a different casting number, but are identical, other than being relieved at the lower flange, to allow the longer roller lifters used in 85, to be removed and installed with the heads in place.