Lug Nuts

[Randy Wells]

I am putting 5/8" studs in the rear axles, they currently have 7/16 and I can see some issues with them, my Centerline's, have a 60 degree conical seat. What do you all use for lug nuts, shank type or the conical seat type. Would have to enlarge the holes in the rim if I went with shaft lugs.

Randy Wells
I/S 5628

[Dragsinger]

Randy, measure the wheel lug nut hole because it may already be 5/8.

[Randy Wells]

Originally Posted by Dragsinger

Randy, measure the wheel lug nut hole because it may already be 5/8.

Larry, the holes are .562 or 9/16. I am thinking of just going with the 1/2" studs don't think this I/Stick car needs 5/8" we had 5/8 on our 67 D/Stick car, thought I would put them on this car but don't really want to drill the wheel holes. May have to ream them a little for 1/2" shank lug nuts.

Randy Wells
I/S 5628

Randy

[Jack Zimmerman]

Something that hardly ever seems to get mentioned about the typical 5/8" wheel drive studs that a lot of us use is that the shoulder that fit's into and locates the wheel is actually 11/16" in diameter. This is the same diameter as the shank on a standard 7/16" or 1/2" threaded straight shank lug nut made for racing wheels. The 5/8" part of the stud is just the thread size. So if you want to use 5/8" drive studs, the holes in the wheels need to be 11/16" diameter. If the wheel is made for use with conical lug nuts it may not work with the 5/8" studs unless it's drilled out and has enough material left to bear on the stud without deforming under hard acceleration.

[Randy Wells]

Originally Posted by Jack Zimmerman

Something that hardly ever seems to get mentioned about the typical 5/8" wheel drive studs that a lot of us use is that the shoulder that fit's into and locates the wheel is actually 11/16" in diameter. This is the same diameter as the shank on a standard 7/16" or 1/2" threaded straight shank lug nut made for racing wheels. The 5/8" part of the stud is just the thread size. So if you want to use 5/8" drive studs, the holes in the wheels need to be 11/16" diameter. If the wheel is made for use with conical lug nuts it may not work with the 5/8" studs unless it's drilled out and has enough material left to bear on the stud without deforming under hard acceleration.

That is why I am going to go with 1/2" studs, don't want to drill the wheels. Thanks Jack

Randy Wells
I/S 5628

[Larry Hill]

Something to think about, cost of 5/8 studs vs repair cost and body work.

When I broke my 1/2 studs it ruined a 71 Cuda bumper, painted Grill, and a gilled fender. The grill was just north of two grand.

[rod butcher]

We sheared a wheel with 1/2" studs like Larry did but were lucky and no damage to the body. I would drill wheels and put 5/8" studs if I were you.

[jmcarter]

If you run the 1/2 inch please note that you’ll need to bring extra studs (or be fortunate enough to be racing with Mike McMahon since he’s carrying extras even though he doesn’t use them anymore, ask me how I know). Matt Rover spotted my broken studs and that’s on a SS/MA car, turns out I was about to make a run with two broken studs, which of course would have been a very costly mistake.

[CMcAllister]

I always insist on 5/8" stuff for anything more exotic than an 11 second street car.

Radial tires, manual transmissions, better track prep...

It's a one time expense that's not a large $$ figure vs. what happens when you shear the small studs.

[Jeff Stout]

You guys are making me nervous. 10.0 car with trans brake and 1/2 studs for 8 years