Cooling System

DailyDriverSst · 08-22-2021, 09:21 PM

Finally got my build "done". Went for a 30 mile drive (split in half), 90-98* ambient, and water temps hovered 215-225* with the header on highest setting trying to shed heat.

Iron block, Iron head, Cometic MLS gaskets. Block is half-filled (I asked for 1/4 fill, machinist didn't listen). EFI.

It took 9 minutes for coolant to go from 90* to 212*.

After an hour of cooldown, it went from 245* (heat soak) to 185*.

It took 9 more minutes to go from 185* to 235* then came down to 228*.

It makes 6 pounds of boost at 3000 and 10 pounds at 6000.

I'm going to add a Craig Davies booster pump (9051) in the heater hose line to recirculate with engine off. But is there anything I can do with the primary system?

I'm going to fatten it up a little in the EFI tune and considering adding water-methanol off a RPM switch at 3,000 with a 2GPM nozzle at the blower and 1GPM in the hat.

It has a 180 thermostat with three 1/8" holes, and an AFCO aluminum radiator.

I'm just not sure what else I can do?

Jeff Stout · 08-23-2021, 12:32 AM

Richen up, add more timing above the 3k rpm. Need alot of fan to help cool. Radiator large enough?

jmcarter · 08-23-2021, 11:38 AM

Compression ratio? Possibly high, perhaps put thicker head gaskets on it otherwise you’re likely to have real trouble in a traffic snarl. Multiple auxiliary fans might help as well, have even seen them on transmission coolers to limit heat from the ATF.

Keith 944 · 08-23-2021, 12:18 PM

i drive my high 10 sec street/strip car on the street. only prob i have is long trips at high rpm not sitting, idling so i know its a flow issue. anyway i have a grid system so i just back the timing down for cruising. you can also ritchen up the fuel, also a big help on my truck was an engine oil cooler!
also i would try it without the thermostat just to see if any difference

1legjerry · 08-23-2021, 06:59 PM

You don't need a thermostat if you are running that hot.

What engine? How much HP? What transmission and rear gear?

DailyDriverSst · 08-23-2021, 09:55 PM

Small block mopar, powerglide (1.80), 4.10 rear and 29.5 tires. weighs 4400 pounds. Shooting for about 700 HP.

Oil cooler has been suggested but not sure where it would physically fit. The blower, radiator, and intercooler are pretty well tetris'd in there with a 12-rib blower belt going forward, and going backwards the exhaust Y pipe goes behind the filter. I'd have to go under the engine, along the driver side header, past the flexplate, until I got to a clear spot on the driver side frame rail.

CR is about 10.0:1.

9.575 deck, 2" crank swing, 6.123 rods, 1.460 pistons, -20cc dish. Pistons are .008 out of the hole. 50 MLS gasket, 63cc chambers.

I've been suggested to drill and tap the rear manifold vents to make a cross-over and run it to the thermostat housing. May not help cooling, but could help with bleeding air out and preventing steam holes.

08-22-2021, 09:21 PM	#1
DailyDriverSst Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2017 Posts: 53 Likes: 0 Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts	Cooling System Finally got my build "done". Went for a 30 mile drive (split in half), 90-98* ambient, and water temps hovered 215-225* with the header on highest setting trying to shed heat. Iron block, Iron head, Cometic MLS gaskets. Block is half-filled (I asked for 1/4 fill, machinist didn't listen). EFI. It took 9 minutes for coolant to go from 90* to 212. After an hour of cooldown, it went from 245 (heat soak) to 185. It took 9 more minutes to go from 185 to 235* then came down to 228*. It makes 6 pounds of boost at 3000 and 10 pounds at 6000. I'm going to add a Craig Davies booster pump (9051) in the heater hose line to recirculate with engine off. But is there anything I can do with the primary system? I'm going to fatten it up a little in the EFI tune and considering adding water-methanol off a RPM switch at 3,000 with a 2GPM nozzle at the blower and 1GPM in the hat. It has a 180 thermostat with three 1/8" holes, and an AFCO aluminum radiator. I'm just not sure what else I can do?

08-23-2021, 12:32 AM	#2
Jeff Stout VIP Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: phoenix Posts: 1,409 Likes: 53 Liked 655 Times in 255 Posts	Re: Cooling System Richen up, add more timing above the 3k rpm. Need alot of fan to help cool. Radiator large enough?

08-23-2021, 11:38 AM	#3
jmcarter VIP Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Richmond Hill GA (and Port Ludlow WA) Posts: 4,122 Likes: 1,978 Liked 2,705 Times in 853 Posts	Re: Cooling System Compression ratio? Possibly high, perhaps put thicker head gaskets on it otherwise you’re likely to have real trouble in a traffic snarl. Multiple auxiliary fans might help as well, have even seen them on transmission coolers to limit heat from the ATF. __________________ Jim Carter 2340 Super Stock 2340 SST/2340 Stock

08-23-2021, 12:18 PM	#4
Keith 944 VIP Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Dela-where? Posts: 2,116 Likes: 1,004 Liked 1,649 Times in 521 Posts	Re: Cooling System i drive my high 10 sec street/strip car on the street. only prob i have is long trips at high rpm not sitting, idling so i know its a flow issue. anyway i have a grid system so i just back the timing down for cruising. you can also ritchen up the fuel, also a big help on my truck was an engine oil cooler! also i would try it without the thermostat just to see if any difference __________________ KEITH MAYERS 2 X somebody many X nobody Last edited by Keith 944; 08-23-2021 at 12:21 PM.

08-23-2021, 06:59 PM	#5
1legjerry Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 68 Likes: 4 Liked 59 Times in 9 Posts	Re: Cooling System You don't need a thermostat if you are running that hot. What engine? How much HP? What transmission and rear gear?

08-23-2021, 09:55 PM	#6
DailyDriverSst Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2017 Posts: 53 Likes: 0 Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts	Re: Cooling System Small block mopar, powerglide (1.80), 4.10 rear and 29.5 tires. weighs 4400 pounds. Shooting for about 700 HP. Oil cooler has been suggested but not sure where it would physically fit. The blower, radiator, and intercooler are pretty well tetris'd in there with a 12-rib blower belt going forward, and going backwards the exhaust Y pipe goes behind the filter. I'd have to go under the engine, along the driver side header, past the flexplate, until I got to a clear spot on the driver side frame rail. CR is about 10.0:1. 9.575 deck, 2" crank swing, 6.123 rods, 1.460 pistons, -20cc dish. Pistons are .008 out of the hole. 50 MLS gasket, 63cc chambers. I've been suggested to drill and tap the rear manifold vents to make a cross-over and run it to the thermostat housing. May not help cooling, but could help with bleeding air out and preventing steam holes.