slick track?

greg fulk · 04-20-2010, 01:21 AM

OK guys I have a "stocker" I also have a soon to be done "bracket car" . The local track is VERY hit or miss on traction....what can I do to make sure my bracket car goes down this track? the car is an 81 Z-28 with a MILD 350 (flat top preformer cam & intake ) 10" conveter with 3.42 gears & 28x9 drag radials (their 275x60x15) do you think this will work?? Also do you think this car will go tru in 2 gears? (1/8th mile) (p.s. the reason for me building the bracket car are 1) the stocker will NOT get down this track 2) your looking @ over $2000 just to "freshen" the stocker engine)

danny waters sr · 04-20-2010, 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greg fulk

OK guys I have a "stocker" I also have a soon to be done "bracket car" . The local track is VERY hit or miss on traction....what can I do to make sure my bracket car goes down this track? the car is an 81 Z-28 with a MILD 350 (flat top preformer cam & intake ) 10" conveter with 3.42 gears & 28x9 drag radials (their 275x60x15) do you think this will work?? Also do you think this car will go tru in 2 gears? (1/8th mile) (p.s. the reason for me building the bracket car are 1) the stocker will NOT get down this track 2) your looking @ over $2000 just to "freshen" the stocker engine)

Greg ,buy my spare 283 stocker motor and get down any track running stock gt or bracket race. lol just a thought.

Floyd Gomez · 04-20-2010, 08:21 AM

Greg the biggest problem I have ever had with the later model 2nd generation cars is body roll. They want to twist really bad and it usually caused the body to crack right above the quarter panel. I would put subframe connectors and slapper bars, run a good drag shock and solid motor mounts for a start. The 3.42 gear is going to be tough for the 1/8th. I would use a 3.73 or 4.11 with the combo you stated to keep the RPM in the power range. Hope this helps.

greg fulk · 04-21-2010, 12:51 AM

you think it will really need subframe connectors? I figure the car will run between 8.80 & 9.20 1/8 mile & I hope 13's (very high 13's) 1/4 mile. the car being a Z-28 already has a factory "anti-roll bar".

Floyd Gomez · 04-21-2010, 06:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greg fulk

you think it will really need subframe connectors? I figure the car will run between 8.80 & 9.20 1/8 mile & I hope 13's (very high 13's) 1/4 mile. the car being a Z-28 already has a factory "anti-roll bar".

The cars just seem to twist a good bit. Street tires are not so bad on it but when you add a converter and slicks it makes it a lot worse. I used a set of bolt ons when I had my 81 and it worked great. I ran 13.70's with flat top motor, fireball cam, edlebrock intake and quadrajet carb. Had a basic stock turbo 350 trans with shift kit and 4.11 gears mini spool with stock axles. Before I installed sub frame connectors it would run .70 varriance. After installed with slapper bars it would stay between .00 and .05. Won a good bit of money with the car. Wish I still had it. LOL

04-21-2010, 09:26 AM

You may want to, in the future, think about a bias-ply DOT tire for consistency. I have a '95 Impala SS that I drive to the track with Hoosier DOT drag radials. It will run low 12s NA with 1.6x 60' times (high 10s on NX). The drag radials are most likely quicker but on slick tracks they're hit or miss. I believe a bias-ply tire, like a Hoosier QTP, would be more forgiving if the track wasn't good and will offer a more consistent launch and ET. Just my .02 ...

greg fulk · 04-22-2010, 11:09 PM

Thanks guys for all the input!

rayfin · 08-04-2010, 11:00 PM

My opinion street radials suck. I like big slicks and a powerglide. I ran a 68 camaro with BFG 275-60-15 drag radials and they would hook like glue and then sometimes they would spin like crazy. Never had that problem with real slicks. Also my powerglide hooked up WAY better than my T350. Both cars were identical other wise.

Robert Simpson · 08-05-2010, 04:13 PM

Greg, I don't think you will have a problem as long as your converter does not "flash" high. I know you said 10" conv etc. My street nova has a small M&H tire on it with a smaller motor than yours and runs 9.30's all day long with a 3.42 gear and a 12" conv. You will run 8's. If it had a problem at first, assuming you exhausted all other options, the I would pull timing out of it. Instead of 12-15 deg initial I would set it at 6 deg initial. I KNOW this kills bottom end in my car. I am curious to hear how your car runs. By the way your converter, who built it? Is it "off the shelf"? I am in the market for a street converter.

Robert

04-20-2010, 01:21 AM	#1
greg fulk VIP Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: jackson Posts: 1,165 Likes: 0 Liked 5 Times in 3 Posts	slick track? OK guys I have a "stocker" I also have a soon to be done "bracket car" . The local track is VERY hit or miss on traction....what can I do to make sure my bracket car goes down this track? the car is an 81 Z-28 with a MILD 350 (flat top preformer cam & intake ) 10" conveter with 3.42 gears & 28x9 drag radials (their 275x60x15) do you think this will work?? Also do you think this car will go tru in 2 gears? (1/8th mile) (p.s. the reason for me building the bracket car are 1) the stocker will NOT get down this track 2) your looking @ over $2000 just to "freshen" the stocker engine) __________________ Greg Fulk 308 308X P/SA "ALL AMERICAN"

04-20-2010, 08:21 AM	#3
Floyd Gomez Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: South Carolina Posts: 275 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: slick track? Greg the biggest problem I have ever had with the later model 2nd generation cars is body roll. They want to twist really bad and it usually caused the body to crack right above the quarter panel. I would put subframe connectors and slapper bars, run a good drag shock and solid motor mounts for a start. The 3.42 gear is going to be tough for the 1/8th. I would use a 3.73 or 4.11 with the combo you stated to keep the RPM in the power range. Hope this helps.

04-21-2010, 12:51 AM	#4
greg fulk VIP Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: jackson Posts: 1,165 Likes: 0 Liked 5 Times in 3 Posts	Re: slick track? you think it will really need subframe connectors? I figure the car will run between 8.80 & 9.20 1/8 mile & I hope 13's (very high 13's) 1/4 mile. the car being a Z-28 already has a factory "anti-roll bar". __________________ Greg Fulk 308 308X P/SA "ALL AMERICAN"

04-21-2010, 09:26 AM	#6
Tar Heel Guest Posts: n/a	Re: slick track? You may want to, in the future, think about a bias-ply DOT tire for consistency. I have a '95 Impala SS that I drive to the track with Hoosier DOT drag radials. It will run low 12s NA with 1.6x 60' times (high 10s on NX). The drag radials are most likely quicker but on slick tracks they're hit or miss. I believe a bias-ply tire, like a Hoosier QTP, would be more forgiving if the track wasn't good and will offer a more consistent launch and ET. Just my .02 ...

04-22-2010, 11:09 PM	#7
greg fulk VIP Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: jackson Posts: 1,165 Likes: 0 Liked 5 Times in 3 Posts	Re: slick track? Thanks guys for all the input! __________________ Greg Fulk 308 308X P/SA "ALL AMERICAN"

08-04-2010, 11:00 PM	#8
rayfin Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sioux city Posts: 134 Likes: 1 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: slick track? My opinion street radials suck. I like big slicks and a powerglide. I ran a 68 camaro with BFG 275-60-15 drag radials and they would hook like glue and then sometimes they would spin like crazy. Never had that problem with real slicks. Also my powerglide hooked up WAY better than my T350. Both cars were identical other wise. Last edited by rayfin; 08-08-2010 at 10:50 PM.

08-05-2010, 04:13 PM	#9
Robert Simpson Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Jacksonville, Florida Posts: 803 Likes: 6 Liked 20 Times in 12 Posts	Re: slick track? Greg, I don't think you will have a problem as long as your converter does not "flash" high. I know you said 10" conv etc. My street nova has a small M&H tire on it with a smaller motor than yours and runs 9.30's all day long with a 3.42 gear and a 12" conv. You will run 8's. If it had a problem at first, assuming you exhausted all other options, the I would pull timing out of it. Instead of 12-15 deg initial I would set it at 6 deg initial. I KNOW this kills bottom end in my car. I am curious to hear how your car runs. By the way your converter, who built it? Is it "off the shelf"? I am in the market for a street converter. Robert