Woodfin's SS GT/TB construction series

[Dragsinger]

ooops, wrong part number about the Edelbrock heads. The listed replacement heads for a 350/360 engine are

*60617
*60637
*60647
*60887

I will need to sort out the options about the casting. If someone knows about the Edelbrock castings listed as replacements please educate me.

[colby]

Yeah I made a couple trips around the pits looking to introduce myself and never found you.

[Mike Pearson]

Sorry to hear about the problems with your engine. I lost one if my engines to a valve breaking at the end of last year. Pretty much destroyed one head and all of the pistons and a rod. Also had to sleeve one of the cylinders. The second engine was lost a few weeks ago with a broken crankshaft. I have been plagued with engine issues for the past year so I feel bad for you.

[Dragsinger]

Thanks,

The thing is, I have been drag racing for 50 years and overall I have not experienced much breakage. Mostly I have built conservative packages that do not push the limits. Yet, when spinning an engine 8600 RPM plus the factor increases to greater chances of a failure.

The Super 10 engine was built with the best parts within the rules allowed, everything was triple checked, however, stuff happens.

This happening will hinder my schedule for a while but I'll be back.

Once I tear down and inspect the damage, depending on what it needs, I may change engine combinations. Am considering some 350 CI combo.

Monday morning while draining the "oil" pan, it is full of water

[Dragsinger]

We are moving forward.

The engine repair is under way and we will be ready for the 2016 season

[Dragsinger]

I hind sight, I realize I was premature is saying I would close out the Super 10 series. At the time of my "closing it out statement" I did not consider the ongoing changes that die in the wool hot rodders will always be making.

In addition, a broken intake valve was the farthest thing from my mind.

So, we move on.

First, the broken intake valve is my fault. I knew the valve to piston clearance was border-line too close yet thought it would be OK. Also, more than once I let the engine get away from me in the water. The 327 likes RPM and in the water the gas pedal just kinda falls away from my foot It will get on an 8800 chip before you can say don't do it.

Lessons are learned and adjustments made. The rebuilt engine will have "enough" clearance and the driver will do a better job of RPM control.

Second, the 6.0 rear gear is slightly too much at the finish line. I am changing to a 5.86 gear and that will lower the finish line RPM by about 200.

The 6.0 gear was a Strange/US gear that I sent to have REM and Cryo treated.

With the 5.86 I decided on a Richmond 9310 series and installed it out of the box. I like the Richmond better. It setup right on the money and has a good pattern.

Photo #108 shows the pinion depth setup tool on place.

Photo # 107 shows the dial indicator reading that means the pinion depth is exactly as etched on the pinion.

Photo # 109 shows pinion dept number

Photo #110 shows desirable gear pattern.

And another in hind sight observation. My race experience with a Chevy 12 bolt has been good. I have built and installed a number of 12 bolts and all give good service.

However, because of the steep gear need with the Super 10 the 12 bolt pinion becomes very small. I now realize a 9" Ford would be a better choice when selecting the very low ratios.

[MR DERBY CITY]

Seems like a 2 step rev control is what you need when doing your burnout. They will flat get away from you in the water and a 6000 chip would be just what the doctor ordered. I have raced forever but I sure like the extra insurance in the water.

[FED 387]

Look at a MSD 8737 THREE STEP unit gives you all three options burn out/launch/top end RPM's--FED 387

[Dragsinger]

The three step is my plan. I have done so in the past and should have had it in place from the beginning.

[Adger Smith]

Larry I always set the pinion depth a little deeper into the ring gear to make them last. The 12 bolt deflects so much it will actually move to a more correct patter in use. I also set the back lash a tick tighter. Doesn't give a good pattern but the small pinions will last and not fold over as quick. I assume you do away with the crush sleeve and use a solid one, Aye! OH and I don't use shims behind the pinion bearing. I have seen them have a nasty habit of coming out on decel at 8600. Shim behind the rear pinion bearing race & case.