H-I-J '76 Nova re-fit.

[FED 387]

I forgot to add I used a bright colored heavy duty extension cord SO EVERYBODY CAN SEE IT AND NOT BE TRIPPING OVER IT and just cut both plugs off one end is attached to the charger and the other end has the Anderson connector---FED 387

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by FED 387

I forgot to add I used a bright colored heavy duty extension cord SO EVERYBODY CAN SEE IT AND NOT BE TRIPPING OVER IT and just cut both plugs off one end is attached to the charger and the other end has the Anderson connector---FED 387

I thought about putting these down by the bumper but I figured I gotta leave some trick ideas for the next one.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-97550/overview/

[FED 387]

let me look i used the same set up might still have the parts laying around--will sell them cheap- what I did i the beginning was fasten the females right on to the battery in the trunk then plugged them in--- those are standard welding plugs get them at any welding supply house for probably a lot less than Moroso/Summit/Jegs will sell them for

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Got a few parts in this week but been super busy at work so couldn't get in the shop. We'll be at it again this weekend, last one for a few weeks though as next weekend the motorhome comes out of storage for some work then we're heading to Bristol for a couple weeks.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

It's the small things that are so time consuming. built some plug wires and made a few more battery cables, figured I would throw the underhood harness in but as usual nothing is as it seems, so looks like we'll be rewiring that. First time I've actually looked inside the distributor... funky.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Not really into it today but we did manage to get some wiring tied up, clutch linkage in and a few little things. Put it up on jackstands so I could measure the wheels, they looked like 8 inchers to me but even though I don't have a real super way to measure them, looks like they're 9 inchers with a 4.5" backspace. So it's up on the lift collecting dust for the next three weeks, I'll order some more parts so when we get back we'll have more to do. I'll try to check in for an update from Bristol.

[Dissident]

Howdy Todd and Autumn,


Simple fix for grubby looking distributor: Easy solution is to wash the rusty parts with household vinegar (weak acetic acid) and it will turn ferrous parts black. Wipe them off and after dry spray them with either some urethane or Bostik Top Coat for Tool Surface Sealant (both are clear and will protect the ferrous surfaces without impeding the magnetic p/u or the reluctor function. Spraying the aluminum won't hurt a thing and also helps to keep down corrosion.



The rusty stuff is a result of the high energy sparking in the cap and that generates nitric oxide in the atmosphere within the cap. This is a reaction from ozone in the cap volume (from the duration and energy of the sparks in the cap). Need to check the phasing of the rotor to the cylinder poles. Air circulation will also help, the small breather on the cap is not enough so it helps to sometimes drill a 3/8" diameter hole in the bottom of the distributor. The vertical ribs on the rotor will function as an air pump and allow air movement within the cap which is a plus.
What you showed in your pic of the distributor is pretty common and although it looks ugly, is easy to fix.


Good Luck with the simple fix while you are waiting for other parts.


Regards,
HB2
Dissident

[Pat6868]

Had this problem with 3 distributors on different cars. Talked to tech at MSD and was told they are aware of this. Suggested I send one to them. Three weeks later it was shipped to my door completely rebuilt. The only part that wasn't new was the aluminum housing, all N/C including shipping. Tough to beat that kind of service.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by Dissident

Howdy Todd and Autumn,


Simple fix for grubby looking distributor: Easy solution is to wash the rusty parts with household vinegar (weak acetic acid) and it will turn ferrous parts black. Wipe them off and after dry spray them with either some urethane or Bostik Top Coat for Tool Surface Sealant (both are clear and will protect the ferrous surfaces without impeding the magnetic p/u or the reluctor function. Spraying the aluminum won't hurt a thing and also helps to keep down corrosion.



The rusty stuff is a result of the high energy sparking in the cap and that generates nitric oxide in the atmosphere within the cap. This is a reaction from ozone in the cap volume (from the duration and energy of the sparks in the cap). Need to check the phasing of the rotor to the cylinder poles. Air circulation will also help, the small breather on the cap is not enough so it helps to sometimes drill a 3/8" diameter hole in the bottom of the distributor. The vertical ribs on the rotor will function as an air pump and allow air movement within the cap which is a plus.
What you showed in your pic of the distributor is pretty common and although it looks ugly, is easy to fix.


Good Luck with the simple fix while you are waiting for other parts.


Regards,
HB2
Dissident

Thank you, very helpful

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by Pat6868

Had this problem with 3 distributors on different cars. Talked to tech at MSD and was told they are aware of this. Suggested I send one to them. Three weeks later it was shipped to my door completely rebuilt. The only part that wasn't new was the aluminum housing, all N/C including shipping. Tough to beat that kind of service.

Sounds like great service, I have another one that's almost new, I could use it and send this one back.