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#331 | |
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Btw. I did not mention it earlier, but I tapped the intake for a 1/4" pipe plug behind that port in the thermostat housing (for a heater hose connection?). Figured that was better than messing with a cap of sorts. ![]() Firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8, correct?
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Rich Taylor I/SA - 321 Last edited by HandOverFist; 03-22-2015 at 11:55 AM. |
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#332 |
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Plug is fine, and yes on the firing order. Stay with the factory distributor. More reliable than the MSD.
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#333 |
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Inline filter spliced in underneath and fuel cell mounted with some scrap metal I had lying around. I'll weigh the car once the engine, transmission and drive shaft are installed to see whats needed for ballast.
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Rich Taylor I/SA - 321 |
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#334 |
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I need a little info from folks here running a similar combo so I can get a convertor spec'd and on the way.
I remember Brian Thompson saying his ATI convertor flashed around 4800rpm. What will be the maximum usable rpm this car will see and what would be the average shift points? Plans are still for a 4.56 gear with the 26" tires.
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Rich Taylor I/SA - 321 |
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#335 |
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Re: header install.
Rich, I`m not sure how your brand of headers and the use of an automatic transmission will compare, but on my 85 Mustang, I install the engine with the passenger side header fully bolted up, and with the flywheel/clutch assembly, scattershield, and starter all bolted up. Once I have the engine sitting in place, I install the drivers side header from below, and then install the Jerico 4 speed. I have never tried installing the engine with the trans bolted up, may try that next time. But having the passenger header and starter in place before the installation sure beat fighting with trying to get the header and starter motor in afterwards.
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NHRA 6390 STK M/S 85 Mustang |
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#336 |
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Bolt the engine and trans together, lower them in to the car and snake the headers in before sitting the engine all the way into the cradle, Every header made seems to fit a little different, especially with an automatic.
My Kooks are my favorite's. The tubes bolt on individually, slip the collector on and tighten everything up. |
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#337 |
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These are some 1-5/8" Mac's I bought used. Not a real race header, but they will have to do for the time being. May play with some extensions once running.
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Rich Taylor I/SA - 321 |
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Dropped the motor in today only to find these headers are not going to work at all. Passenger side just barely clears and the driver side is all over the steering shaft. I don't think the steering swap from power to manual has anything to do with it...steering shaft is basicly in the same position as the factory piece. Someone please tell me it is not necessary to run the steering shaft between the header tubes...
![]() Anyway, I need a part number for a proven fitting set of headers for this car before I can proceed. The only highlight of the day was I spun the oil pump and it had plenty of pressure with no leaks. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Rich Taylor I/SA - 321 Last edited by HandOverFist; 03-28-2015 at 08:31 PM. |
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#339 |
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I have Hooker Super Comps on mine. The steering shaft goes through the tubes on them as well.
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Chris Bowman The Mountain State Mustang 1984 Mustang GT350 |
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#340 |
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The steering swap didn't affect it. Will they fit with the shaft between the tubes? With my Kooks, they actually do have the shaft running between them, but they come apart to make it easy. I have never ran the Mac longtubes, but never heard of them having serious fitment issues.
Make sure that whatever you get specifies that they work with an automatic. Not all Fox headers will. EDIT. What motor mounts are those? Do you still have the factory mounts laying around? If so, double check the heights, and the forward/backward postition between the 2. Some aftermarket mounts move the engine, and can cause all kinds of header fitment issues. Last edited by Tony Corley; 03-28-2015 at 08:55 PM. |
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