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#21 |
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ladder bars
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Larry Woodfin 471W |
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#22 |
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Competition Engineering Anti-roll bar
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Larry Woodfin 471W |
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#23 |
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It is not necessary to have caster wheels, but it helps.
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Larry Woodfin 471W |
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#24 |
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Strings are an important tool
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#25 |
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An interesting update. I have decided to scrap the plans for a conventional SB engine. Instead, to move my engine knowledge into the current century, I will be building an LS-series engine. Would you please check back often as we learn how to do a carburated LS drag engine?
More soon as I decide on which block and what size engine.
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Larry Woodfin 471W |
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#26 | |
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My preference is the Daytona Sensors Smart-Spark standalone ignition box. Allows for a clean and simple installation, offers many options for RPM control and after you map your ignition, it has small knobs to do adjustments at the track without the need of a laptop. Also, they have great customer support. http://www.daytona-sensors.com/smart...ol-module.html |
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#27 |
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SS, Thanks for the info.
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#28 |
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Couple of things I learned on my ls build. If you are using a stock crankshaft be sure to check the thickness of the flange on the back. Some early 4.8 and 6.0 cranks have a thicker flange (1.250) where the majority have a .857. The thicker flange uses a flat flexplate and the others use a dish style. A crank from a FWD car is different again. I used a Hughes 4004X flexplate it has multiple convertor attatchment points.
I used an ATI 917215 balancer which has timing marks and needed to be pinned to the crank. A few companies make a fixture for this but instead because my engine was disassembled I had the machine shop cut another keyway in the snout. Then used ATI 916631 drive mandrel for the vacuum pump and alternator. Worked for me. |
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#29 |
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Larry here is a 5.3 LS motor not to far from you. $650 not bad for complete motor, easy to get 600 hp out of these with stock bottom end.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...Anull%7D%22%7D |
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