U/SA 302 ffffford build

[Billy Nees]

Rory, I was hoping that you would respond.

[Mark Yacavone]

The 8.8's are still around, but they've gone up considerably since the one I bought in 2007. Probably local would be best, if you live in a populated area. I wouldn't want to pay shipping on one.
Supposedly ,Yukon gear made a 5.14 for the 7.5, never actually saw one that's available. I agree that it would probably hold up behind a 302, 2 bbl , 3" stroke, 3000# combo.

[goinbroke2]

Of all the stuff left to do, I was thinking since the 9" is in it, and already has 4:86's..... But I get it, experience is better than theory. By spring, if it's as far as I want it to be I might start looking for a 8.8 (cousin gave me a 3.27 traction loc 7.5, it's the one I cut the ears off and used the Trac loc in my blue 86 mustang. (3.8/auto, not in the guide, I looked, wish it was, lol) so I can probably find one, but then I need axles/spool/etc for a 8.8 when I have a perfectly serviceable 9" in it already. Maybe I'll find a built 8.8 and just bolt it in.

Thanks guys, the more I get done, the more I find I have to change/replace, LOL! I just finished redoing the dual batteries in the trunk (it was going back as a bracket car originally) and remember I need a battery in the stock location too....and a battery box! So now I'll tear out the dual batt set up (I'm paranoid about hitting the key in the lanes and getting a click) and put one (original size) in the front and then rewire my master switch to turn them both off as well as the engine. One step ahead, 4 back, lol.

[goinbroke2]

Originally Posted by Billy Nees

Rory, I was hoping that you would respond.

I have already been pestering him at the track this summer. (and every other S/SS guy the maritimes) I have to remember that I have two ears and one mouth though. (story of my life, HA!!)

Edit: and I have to read the 2023 rule book, it appears my 1997 rule book is no longer accurate.

[Billy Nees]

Originally Posted by goinbroke2

but then I need axles/spool/etc for a 8.8

No, you don't. Stock axles and posi are more than strong enough for a 302/auto combo. Stop looking to spend time and money that doesn't need to be spent on a 12/13 second car!

P.S., It'll slow you down.

[goinbroke2]

Originally Posted by Billy Nees

No, you don't. Stock axles and posi are more than strong enough for a 302/auto combo. Stop looking to spend time and money that doesn't need to be spent on a 12/13 second car!

P.S., It'll slow you down.

Thanks Billy, I'm still in a bracket mindset instead of a stocker mindset. You're right, a lot less rolling resistance with the 8.8. Doesn't matter with a bracket car but it does with a stocker and I'm not running a 460.

[Jeff Stout]

I'm in AZ and on Facebook was expedition 8.8 for 150.00. Disc brakes. Gears? Not sure on width

[Mike Graham]

Just a note on 8.8 vs 9 inch. If the car has a 9 inch in it leave it. We did a back to back test 9 inch to 8.8 in a U/SA. Everything the same. There was ZERO difference. Parts for the 9 inch are cheaper and easier to find used.

[goinbroke2]

That's good to know, I think the concern is more the fact I welded cast ears onto the steel housing. It's lower on the priority list but I'll either redo the upper mounts in mild steel or find a 8.8 to bolt in.

Zero change from back to back testing is more believable than what car craft or hot rod said in the 70's too, lol.

[goinbroke2]

Well, I picked up a engine that was supposedly just built, ran it for a couple hours and it started knocking. I got it because it has the D8OE heads I need. As I'm tearing it apart I'm noticing an "assembler" problem. Somebody spent a lot of money to slap it together without checking anything.

Piston/wall clearance was .001 at most. (two pistons are scored quite bad)
Cam endplay was .120!!
Cam lobes all starting to wipe but engine started knocking before it ate the cam completely.

Now, the good news. I noticed the rod caps are all ground from a balance job(except one of course) and I see ARP rod bolts as well. I see slugs of mallory welded in....ummm...there's an eagle stamped into the first counterweight!!
The head bolts are ARP as well.
I checked the pistons, Hypereutectic CP, 30 over.
Looking closer at the rods, they are D1VE which are 1971 rods....interesting.

The Cyl's were just bored and are perfectly straight and round. I decided to hone it out to .003 (calls for .015-.029) to get rid of the scratches and it worked on 6, the two bad ones are still noticeable.
Cam endplay was .120 instead of .001-.003 I looked at the frost plug behind the cam and they used a tiny socket to beat it in causing it to push the center in but it was never seated. Seated that with a proper sized driver and it went to zero. A little manipulating and I got .002 endplay.

I did some block work opening up oil returns and was going to relieve all the holes but wife got home, lol!

Since i got it so cheap, I'm going to fix the assembly errors and put it back together. The cam bearings look pretty rough which could cause low oil pressure but other than that, bottom end should be ok. Put the stocker heads and cam in it and see if it will last until my good engine is built?? I just have to check these pistons.

Forgot to mention, I have a Deano carb and a stocker cam on their way!