Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.

[Cglrcng]

My combo is a 1 off weird duck 2.2L/135 C.I. single point TBI 4 cyl w/ a hall effect distro. 3 wire magnetic pickup 4 blade rotor (original upright Bosch Throttle body). Am currently in process of using the published and printed 271R960A Holley EFI MPFI Main Harness wiring diagram and custom tailoring/adjusting as necessary to make it work w/ the sensors I have (changing to updated sensors, adding some it never had and deleting some on the diagram I cannot add). I am creating/building and terminating the engine sensor harness myself. The harness is within 70 percent completed (completed as far as this stage...Terminator X ECU mounted under dash on board, Power harness mounted and hung all the way to the battery, crimps still need to be finished at the battery for clean fused power supply. (Deleted from the diagram are the following sensors (Any knock sensors and the other 7 injector connections, though I used the called for wire gauge sizes in all instances, and the EFI fuel supply system (with return to cell line), installed 18 months ago, and tested now a full season plus, is fully known working great (a JEGS 500 HP 5 Gal. Cell, Pump, Pre/post filters running Sunoco 110 Standard through properly sized lines I have many different High Impedance Injectors to choose from, current 1 on it now is a 24 -26 lb per hr.(and all have been flow tested from 40-PSI up to 70 PSI with charted in 5 PSI increment increased results)- and I am willing to purchase any Holley or other Injector(s) necessary to get the best results once we know that all sensors and the ECU are giving great data), currently running at 50 PSI (without the vacuum port signal connected, an adjustable FPR mounted on the Throttle Body (though I could reinstall the vac hose if needed or even switch back to the vac adj Stk FP regulator if needed. My Radiator fan is switch operated and controlled manually, as is the Moroso Water Pump Drive at the present time and I wish to leave that so at this time as I like race temp control solely in my hands before staging the car. The system is setup cold blooded, and It now performs best and is most repeatable and consistent if I stage the car at 135-140 degrees (if it is too cold it does not perform best), the thermostat is not currently installed and a very large washer w/ the hole the size of a nickel is used in its place). No matter the wait or rush at the ready line to staging is a process I can easily and quicky achieve so I want to leave that as is at present for easy repeatability. (It can be changed if necessary later once we have data to compare).

The J1A and J1B connectors have been fully populated in the correct pinout order for both the J1A and J1B connectors and every single wire in both connectors were meter tested the entire harness starting length of 15' of wire length for clean voltage and resistance signal (to alleviate any future issues before cutting and terminating any single wire in the entire harness). All engine/chassis grounds and shared sensor grounds in the harness were performed so far and fully tested (added a couple grounds to the Intake that share Chassi grounding points to match the original engineered/designed grounds scheme and make sure that is not a future issue). My 2.2L is solidly and rigidly mounted (using my combo wt/box/ torque strap in the AC mount), but also still contains/is mounted w/ the 3 point rubber engine mount system. So, those multi ground points must be utilized to have good know engine to chassis grounding. It works great right now, so I figured maintaining and matching that was best. The wiring diagram does not call for any Alternator connection, so I have not planned for 1, but should include that a 90 AMP Alternator is installed, and great known working condition and the battery is new. Currently the timing is set right now static at 46 degrees all in, all the time, a bit hard cranking but I have tested it higher and lower, and it is just 1 of those strange creatures that is just happiest/fastest at a certain point and this one loves 46 degrees. .430./.430 measured lift cam currently installed and dialed in 3 degrees advanced. Same thing. I do have multiple cams avail. (though they are not currently in my hands...are at Bullet Cams but will be back soon enough).

I have the following completed both J1A and J1B 12V Switched will be under dash inside car. Relay is mounted near battery under hood. CAN connection including USB 10' cable for laptop near Term. X, Inputs/Outputs completed and terminated at an 8 cavity Deutch connector. I have run the future Holley Dash Wiring, coiled it near ECU in case future expansion choice is used...no plans for the added dash at the moment. The Fuel Pump wiring is installed and run and ready for termination/connection at both ends...The Relay and an under dash stock mercury type tilt/rollover fuel pump auto cuttoff switch and the fuel pump wiring from dash to rear is good known and currently working fine from passenger dash side to rear of car now where pump is mounted.

More in next post below.

[1700camaro]

I feel your pain!

I don't have a one-off duck combo & have a wiring harness for my sbc.

I'm having issues with software & firmware in bench testing. I think I'm getting it figured out.

We are installing the ecu & harness starting this weekend. The motor is out of the car for time changes & freshening. Once installed I'll bench test the issues in the car.

Sorry, I'm not an expert on this stuff. I fumbled my way through the Sniper set-up I had, but Holley doesn't support that system anymore.

Your best bet is to go on the Holley forums to try & get help.

1700/781L

[Cglrcng]

So far on engine bay side of the firewall :

Holley does not make or have an off the shelf harness kit so I have been forced to build/create, and terminate my own based directly off of the above referenced Holley Multi-point Fuel injection wiring diagram and the 1 existing injector. I really only need help from a wiring expert to see if what I envision and have concerning the Ignition portion of the install, cam and crank synchs that this vehicle engine combo did not come stock with will work, or if a conversion to an MSD style ign. box is necessary. I have the stk 3 wire 1 magnetic pickup distro, and have a same type double plate 2.2L turbo style distro/2 magnetic pickup (3 wires each and the pickups are offset more than 90 degrees and 1 is mounted up for the 4 blade hall effect rotor, and the other is mounted on the underside of the pickup plate with a single 180 degree single blade that may be trimmed to any size so leading and trailing edge can be tailored any way we need it to be. And I have access to machining experience and the means to fabricate what we need if that distro can be used for cam/crank signals. The existing (before Holley Terminator X install), ignition is currently a Chrysler Chrome Box electronic ign. module and harness from a 1983 Carbed Dodge Omni edition, fed by the 3 wire single pickup hall effect distro plate and an MSD Blaster ign. coil.

The Terminator X is mounted and has an internal MAP sensor, I will also of course attach the existing vacuum hose to the nipple but have excluded any external wiring in the engine sensor harness as called out for in the wiring diagram referenced since I assume, it is internally mounted and wired. The Split style 2 hole firewall grommet is installed, Power harness is installed. The engine harness is ready to install and is covered at least 50 percent and already terminated using Deutch connectors Oil Pressure (Scarletts Solutions 0-100 PSI Transducer), ready for install and connection. 2 wire split grounding points at the intake manifold, 2 wire AIC, 3 wire TPS, and a 2 wire MAT sensor (the 2.2L did not come stock w/ a MAT sensor, and the intake does not really have a bung or mount point where the sensor can be installed without being directly sprayed with cold fuel so I will be mounting it not directly in the intake air stream but very close to the intake air inlet of the throttle body). The very limited small throttle body inlet (and the only opening I have, tells me not to even think about interrupting the inlet stream or risk creating any air turbulence, so near is better than in the air stream in my case...some data is better in this case than no data at all...if there are other ideas I am open to any real honest suggestions from others with experience, in this case on a sensor and others of course. I also have questions on the IAC as my existing and integrated1 is rear mounted as a part of the upright Bosch throttle body and is only 2 wire 12v type (and the wiring diagram calls out for a 4 wire solution, and currently I used the J!B pins B! and B2 though could use some help here also in case I need to move to a PWM solution for the IAC. Next in line is the switchover from the existing 1 wire stk simple (non- wide band) Bosch O2 sensor to the Bosch style LSU4.9 WBO2 sensor I have been supplied with (which has 5 actual wires and a six cavity plug, but the Holley wiring diagram has 8 wires as does my install cable have seven plus the shield. So I need help with that issue as the WBO2 sensor wiring colors vary and are very different from the Holley WBO2 wiring colors though the connector plug I have is the correct 6 wire male/female type. (do I need a 6 to 8 wire converter, etc?) I have seen 1 available for purchase online.

I have yet to complete and cut, terminate, and cover the sensor harness from center of the firewall (engine side), to the battery, relay and ignition, distro, coil points (and will be completing it as I go)...Up next is the Water Temp sensor (switching on that one wire, to a 2 wire CTS), the Oil Pressure (adding again another 3 wire 0-100 Scarletts Solutions Transducer), then whatever Ignition solution (we can come up with together to complete the harness (all the rest will be terminated, hung/installed within the engine bay and covered as I complete the installation and first fire up, and the testing and learning procedure is completed. The existing original wiring at this time is remaining all in place, the existing ECM/PM and affected sensors will remain and will be ready to reconvert at this time within a few hours back to the way it is running right now should a problem exist since I do not have a spare Holley ECU. Total car weight is not an issue at this point as I have ballast I can remove to adjust the total vehicle weight easily. Once the system has proven it's worth with the new ECU, I can remove the un-necessary wiring, but am keeping the other wiring headlights to taillights at this point.

[Cglrcng]

I still have 1 bracket race week this season at Thanksgiving and (if I can complete the install before then, I can test is and begin it learning), as I have a very good idea (though no expert by far), of the Holley software setup and settings (I have the software downloaded and updated on the laptop, have not updated the ECU yet, but have begun setting up the software w/ the required settings. I am a almost 30 yr IT Tech and computer repair tech, but am not an electrical engineer by any means. I need expert help, am willing to pay a reasonable amount for your time on a T&M basis of course as just the initial consult will take a lil' time since I need to communicate in pics and conversation by phone, texts, or whatever other means, fully what exists now and what results we hope together to achieve, and I know that takes more time than just bringing it to someone and saying complete it please. I love to learn and solve issues, and gain the knowledge, so later I can also diagnose my own issues too. So I do not just want to hand it to someone to just do it for me.

If I can just get it completed, up and running/learning (it is not street able, it is an NHRA Stocker as slow as it is), before that last bracket racing week (as the car is still in storage in L.V.), then after the last race week I will be taking it to someone in the Las Vegas, NV or Lake Havasu City, AZ area for Dyno Tuning time in December to make it again race ready for the 2025 season.

Anyone with suggestions or names and numbers (of the wiring expert I seek), please PM me.

Thanks

Gary.

[Cglrcng]

Thanks 1700, that is my next stop of course I have probably 30 tabs open right now in the forum just am still reading everything out there I can.

OK, have you downloaded and installed the latest software version. and the latest Hardware Firmware Version? If so that is right up my alley and I can talk you through getting the 2 updated. So, PM me if you need help there for sure and put your phone number in the PM and I can call you and talk you through that.

Mainly I am looking for someone that can confirm a few things and mainly the ignition setup, and going with what I have available, or what they think is the best option.(I do not want to send the right voltage to the wrong place). And ummmm, let that magic smoke out.

[Cglrcng]

So far no real pain here except the small cuts on my hands from installing the power harness/relay, etc. at the track in the pits Saturday while I had the room to open both doors full wide and enjoy a decent fall weather day in Vegas and heal and sooth my slightly hurt feelings from a great plan gone awry a bit resulting in a tough 1st rnd loss motivating me fully to up my plan of finally finishing the upgrade now and not wait until the car is home on December 1st. Get that stupid but absolutely necessary project completed.

Eventually after it is done I will move on to take advantage of the 2 step capability it provides. The plan w/ a zero caffeine.-.002 R.T. in Q1, was to simply go caffeine free first rnd and reduce the
Stage stall speed just 200 RPM and tear down the tree while only affecting the E.T. what I was dialed for.

I did just as planned, pre-staged as usual, looked down at the tach, reduced the stall 200 (I could hear and see the 200rpm reduction), looked up and (oh crap the car behind me was already doing his burnout, I could no longer hear my car at all), I bumped in within 3 bumps shallow....And light was right but felt slow and lazy. L. Emmons easily had a better run, deserved the win light.

The time slip showed 5 hun slower than all 3 of my prior Q passes that were all
pretty much matching and very slow but
consistent 2.32 60' times and once you are off that far in a slow car it is pretty much over and cannot be made up.

My tattle tale tach showed the 200rpm reduction, then another 300rpm drop while bumping in and that is my issue to resolve, and 2 step capability will do so.

You cannot take 500rpm out at stall and expect the light or 60' time to still be there. But, at least now I know what caused a great race to turn south, and the solution to not have that happen again. And now have the motivation to do now what I planned on doing a little later and get it live tested at my last event racing this season.

I just need a little expert knowledge to get it done.

[1700camaro]

Originally Posted by Cglrcng

OK, have you downloaded and installed the latest software version. and the latest Hardware Firmware Version? If so that is right up my alley and I can talk you through getting the 2 updated. So, PM me if you need help there for sure and put your phone number in the PM and I can call you and talk you through that.

Thanks Gary! I shouldn't need your assistance. I had the V2 software loaded & transferred my tune there. Then somehow discovered when bench testing the system. I needed V3 build 100 software & couldn't find it on Holley.com; I did find build 110 & that's what I have loaded now.

Now, it's telling me a need some other update & I think it's the data card. I'm not at a point to do the update with a bench test. Getting ready to install the system in the car.

Thanks again! I should be able to get this figured out.

Good luck with the Thanksgiving race(s)! I was planning to run that race(s) & the SCSN race the weekend before. The motor is out, installing the Terminator X system & doing other changes/updates. Plans change!

1700/781L

[Robin Lawrence]

Looks like you are covering all the bases. If you have specific questions I might be able to help.

I have decent amount of experience with the Holley systems.

Robin

[Cglrcng]

I know you do Robin, and were the exact expert I was looking for actually. May I bounce a few ideas off of you, then ask you about the best solutions please?

At this point everything appears ready to go if we can solve the Ignition, cam/crank synchs issues (my engine currently has neither of the last 2 sensors in stock form), but I will post the pics of what we think may be able to serve as both. (My engine is not a Turbo Edition, and has a single plate 3 wire hall effect distributor currently installed), but I also purchased a 2.2L/135 CI Turbo distributor that has a double 3 wire Hall Effect P.U. plate. and the upper P.U. is off the upper 4 blade rotor, while the lower is offset more than 90 degrees and has a single blade nearly 180 degrees but can be pretty easily machined/trimmed as necessary to achieve a leading or trailing edge in whatever size is necessary. (I need to resize the pic's before posting, but will do so immediately after eating dinner).

I really appreciate you responding & asking Robin I know your knowledge with the Holley EFI systems is extensive. There are a few other questions also, about the O2 and IAC.

I certainly have very specific questions Robin.

My IAC is attached to the rear of the upright Bosch throttle body, bolted to but fully integrated into the T.B. (so, I must use that IAC), but it has only 2 wires Brn/Wht and Tan. (so far I have only run 2 wires (J1B (Pin B1 IAC Lo, and Pin B2 IAC HI) within the harness for the IAC, though I can rectify that if necessary if I need to switch it to wiring it by the PWM method, by switching the J1B cavity spots I am using, though it looks like the PWM method also calls for 4 wires, so I not sure of anything except I must use my stock IAC on my stock Throttle Body and it only has 2 wires (I can certainly back probe the connector and get voltage readings from it though to provide).

My original stock narrow band 02 Sensor is a 1 wire Bosch sensor and I am replacing it with a 2.9 Bosch (going a lil' cheaper as I am using Term. X, leaded race gas, and will need to carry spares and change them often possibly, though I am not fouling the single wire I understand the heated WB02 sensors are more prone to failing using leaded gas). Ok, the wire colors on the sensor are different (White, Red, Black, Yellow, and Blue I think, there are truly only 5 wires and a 6 cavity plug on the sensor with 1 of the cavities blocked off, (I also purchased the matching other 6 cavity female plug), I show and have attached the actual 8 wire WBO2 (7 wire plus shield cable to the harness all the way back to the J1A proper pinout cavities), diagram shows 8 wires (I have seen an 8 wire to 6 wire conversion extension I think it was on Summit, but is there an easier simpler way to wire it in properly? 5 on the WB02 sensor, 6 at the plug, to 8 Holley Term. X pinouts?

I do have a complete set of the 1984 Dodge Daytona Dealer Service Manuals and the as built complete wiring diagrams for the car if necessary and can forward pics of any subsection if needed for reference. If it makes it any easier to research the necessary solutions.

Other than that, I have deleted the knock sensors (I have zero provision on the block...unless you think I can and should add 1 somehow a lot like I am attempting to add the MAT that did not exist near the throttle body intake. And the MAP is internal in the Term. X of course. So I deleted the wires from the harness or just did not fill the cavities in the J1A Connector.

Thank you for responding again and offering your help Robin. (I will post pics soon tonight). Speed is not the most important element at this point as the car is currently 100 miles away from me right this minute.

Accuracy of the right/best solutions to attempt is, as I can easily make a trip back up to Vegas and finish terminating and installing the Main J1A/J1B engine harness as I am now down to the Ignition (I am not positive I can use my Chrysler/Mopar style Electronic Ignition Module and Coil, or if I need to switch to an MSD or not?)

The WBO2 and IAC, and connecting everything else as all the rest is terminated properly and tested as far as conductivity, resistance, and wire colors, pinout maps, grounds, etc.