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#1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
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I am interested in building my first class car. I have been drag racing for a few years now in a R.E.D. My dad has a 91 Mustang lx conv. 5.0. He purchased the car new and has been garage kept. This is the car I am wanting to build. I would like any info on this combination. I live in N.C. and am basically 45 min. from all DIV. 9 races for IHRA. I would like to run pure stock for a year or so and then venture in to stock with the same car. What class or classes would this car fall in to on both stock and pure stock. This will be a race car only build. This is something my dad always wanted to do with this car but now he has hit the age where he is unable to do so. I do plan to have him drive it some when it is done though. I did not mention it is a A/T car completely bone stock with 38k miles. Any advice would be great......Thanks in advance.....
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#2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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My dad ran a pure stock mustang for awhile, and a good way to start would be to short belt the engine where only the water pump and alternator are being driven by the crank. Next would be to use an aftermarket shorty header with an H or X pipe and good mufflers. Then change the gear to somewhere around a 3.73 or 4.10 with a good Drag Radial tire, I prefer Mickey Thompsons. We changed to an aftermarket axle but some people keep the stock axles. Also, you will probably need to rebuild the posi-trac and a regular kit from Ford racing will do the job. I believe we ran a best of 8.50 on a 9.30 index in H/PS without much else done to the car. Most of the time we were in the 8.70s but the converter is the key. I drove this car to high school and we got 20 mpg on the interstate
![]() -Jake
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Jake Sealey 2507 Stock 2075 SuperStock |
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#3 |
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Wow another Pure Stocker.. Cool !
Rob Butler is the Record Holder in F/PS. Several Mustangs run Pure Stock. A very cost effective versatile Stocker. As Jake stated the Converter is the key. Of course need to have everything else to make it do its job. FYI, it is Legal to use a Blue Printed Cam which adds about 20hp. I like Bullet Cams, Lunati and others have them. When you get pictures ready I have started a Pure Stocker Photo Gallery. Rob Butlers car is in there too. My friend Steve Klacik Mustang runs an H/PS Mustang as well. He and I drive our cars to the Races. We are a growing community and are several active PS advocates trying to improve the numbers in Pure Stock. Go to LooseRocker.com and view the Northern Class Nationals. My company is sponsoring the Pure Stock Challenge. Please ping me at work if you have any other questions. danfahey@dansources.com Welcome Dan |
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#4 |
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I think I would go with at least 4.33 gear if you aren't planning to drive it on the street anymore. I would also go ahead and put a good balancer on it too even if just running pure stock.
When you do plan to make it an all out stocker, you will find you need a 4.88 or 5.13 gear with the 8.8 rear with aftermarket axles and a spool. I agree with others that a good converter is a must.
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Chris Bowman The Mountain State Mustang 1984 Mustang GT350 |
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#5 |
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Location: Bardstown, KY
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Welcome to class racing.
I agree on the posts above about an aftermarket torque convertor. Mine really needs one. I have a '95 Mustang GT Pure Stocker with basically the same engine as the Fox Mustang except mine has the factory electric fan. Mine also has the AODE. The car was completely stock when I bought it off a car lot 3 years ago and has 187K miles. Mods so Far: * 4.56 gears and rebuilt trak lok rear ( extra clutch pack) * BBK shorties * 2.5 inch off road h-pipe with Flowmaster 2 chambers * short belt than runs the water pump and alt. on the stock pullies * K&N filter * Baumann shift kit for the AODE ( works great) * heavy M/T 295-55-15 D.O.T drag radials * heavy front street radials 165 SR * 93 octane unleaded The car still has the factory torque convertor and has run a best of 9.29 on the I/PS index of 9.45. Car still has the factory front and rear springs, struts, shocks, and sway bars. Lots of room for improvement.
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Alan Mackin Stock 3777/ SS 3377 P/SA & SS/PA Fox Thunderbird I/PS '95 Mustang GT Last edited by ALMACK; 12-16-2013 at 09:11 PM. |
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#6 | |
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Location: Bardstown, KY
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I agree on replacing the factory balancer with a new one !
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Alan Mackin Stock 3777/ SS 3377 P/SA & SS/PA Fox Thunderbird I/PS '95 Mustang GT Last edited by ALMACK; 12-16-2013 at 10:01 PM. |
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#7 |
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Sorry Al,
Forgot to mention your Pure Stocker Mustang. Beautiful car. However Al also has a sleeper Q/SA T Bird 4 Cylinder turbo that needs to replace rear bumpers on a regular basis. ![]() ![]() D |
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#8 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Bardstown, KY
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![]() Quote:
Thanks Dan. I wish I did have a bumper dragging problem. ![]()
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Alan Mackin Stock 3777/ SS 3377 P/SA & SS/PA Fox Thunderbird I/PS '95 Mustang GT |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
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Thanks for all the replies. So can I go ahead and put the 4.88 gear in this car as it will not be driven on the street??? Here is what my plans are for the car.
4.88 gears/ axles/spool/c-clip elem. Trans. kit/FTI 8" conv. Weld wheels/Slicks/Frt runners Drive shaft loop Full length headers/Flowmaster mufflers Shocks/Struts/Springs Chrome moly cage(remember it's a conv.) Pull eng. and send to Warren for pure stock build Last edited by eracer36; 12-18-2013 at 12:53 AM. |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Rainy Washington
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On the rear end I would skip the c-clip eliminator and cut the ends off and weld 9" ends on since you are going to buy axles. C-clip eliminator have a tendency to leak. No pure stock classes out here, don't know if you can change the brakes while you are there.
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James Boyce 6052 K/SA Stock National record holder 2015,2018,2 times in 2022,2023 |
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