Chevy starter issues

[Greg Reimer 7376]

Thank you all for your input. I've had this truck since December of 1999. It's the best toy I ever had, save for one or two race cars that seem to be easy to go rounds with.I equipped it with dual batteries which are the 24 S category, and the original Group 74 cables have been replaced a few times. It seems that there is some kind of resistance connection problem between the front wiring harness and the fuse box, dash,and the ignition switch. I replaced the ignition switch recently, the truck has factory gauges, the alternator reads just under 14volts with the engine running, testing both batteries with a DVOM reads about 13.6 volts, I feel there is some kind of impedance problem between the under hood harness and the dash harness, maybe a firewall plug issue or something like that. I have noticed that driving at night, the headlights don't look real bright, there has to be a high resistance condition somewhere. I will check the grounds at the rear of the one head, as well as any other things like that. This truck has never been apart. The intake has never been off, neither has either valve cover. It's the best toy I ever had, with the possible exception of my Chevelles and my 409 I had years ago. Sometimes when something never gives you any problems, it's a bit bigger of a job to troubleshoot it when it does.

[FED 387]

If Im not mistaken doesn't the main vehicle electrical power come from the positive post on the starter?? If so might check the cable coming off that post and the terminal end too----as old as that truck is over the years between vibration heat and the weather that lug may have deteriorated---also are the replacement starters GM look a likes (offshore knockoffs) or are they either new or rebuilt BY GM/AC- DELCO starters?some of that crap does not have a very long life to it---also check the body grounds for good contact with the frame--FED 387

[Mark Ugrich]

Isn’t there a start relay under the hood?Could be old or corroded.

[Mike Jones]

Easy enough to add a ground from the block to the frame. Have someone hold the key over, while its hot, feel positive and negative cables for heat. Hard to believe all those starters were bad. Long stroke Caddy engines from years ago would have a problem when hot caused by sediment that choked the bottom of the cylinders. The motor would turn, but slowly. Batteries, cables and starters wouldn`t solve it The fix was to knock out the freeze plugs and clean it out, the best you could. A s**t job that you crossed your fingers on, lol. Be glad you won`t have to do that!
Good luck

[Chevy55]

Try this

[tommy d]

Some of those GM trucks and vans had a flat braided ground wire from the pass side engine block to the frame. They like to rot off and cause problems like yours.

[jimmyparker]

I had a similiar problem with a non GM vehicle, it would start fine then let you down when it was least expected. The cure was found when while attempting to start smoke was observed coming out of one of the battery cables, it was replaced and problem went away.

[Mark Ruset]

Most of the suggestions are good, check your battery cables with an ohm meter for high resistance. after as many miles as you are stating the cables may have incurred corrosion. The cables would be affected by under hood temperature.

[ken robinson]

My old 1998 C2500 had doubled or stacked positive battery cables that I had to pull apart from year to year and clean and grease 1 cable was for just the start the other was for the everything else