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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 73
Likes: 11
Liked 151 Times in 37 Posts
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Update on the rest.
We did get our crank balanced. We also bought a set of Total Seal rings $$$$ Intake acid dipped and painted. Waiting for bearings to start assembling. We cleaned up and painted the instrument cluster and bezel around it. Settled on the switch panel location so we started wiring. So far I am really happy with how the wiring is going and the routing to the glove box. Tach mounted. Fuel pressure gauge mounted. Clutch and flywheel arrived. Should really see some movement now if we can start assembling the short block! ![]() |
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#2 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: from Vancouver BC Canada, now in Nova Scotia
Posts: 1,312
Likes: 323
Liked 1,113 Times in 304 Posts
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Maybe I am just used to the old Holley fuel pressure regulators, but that appears to be plumbed wrong. On my Holley reg, the higher pressure feed goes to the bottom, where you gauge is plumbed, and the side ports are reduced by the adjusting screw. Seems odd that you couldn`t find headers to work with the factory clutch linkage, as I have seen several stick G body GMs with a 4 speed and headers, but at least you could make those work.
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NHRA 6390 STK M/S 85 Mustang |
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#3 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 5
Likes: 15
Liked 7 Times in 4 Posts
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Must retain the unaltered stock manifold, consistent with year
and engine horsepower claimed. Grinding, sandblasting, or any other modification inside manifold prohibited. Runners and plenum must retain OEM appearance. ![]() |
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#4 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 73
Likes: 11
Liked 151 Times in 37 Posts
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Of course! Just the best way to clean out the rust.....
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#5 |
Live Reporter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hickory, Ky
Posts: 10,684
Likes: 1,993
Liked 11,017 Times in 2,265 Posts
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I use a ball valve for fuel samples
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Papillion, NE
Posts: 612
Likes: 246
Liked 293 Times in 65 Posts
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Looking good! You're going to need a clutch fork like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...caAqljEALw_wcB The throwout bearing needs to have about .300-.400" freeplay when the clutch is engaged, which means you won't have anything keeping the pushrod from falling out of the pocket in the fork. This way, you can use a rod end / heim joint to connect it to the fork. Keep it up, hope to see you out with it this season! |
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#7 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 563
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heim ends are the only way to go also make up a piece of tubing to go from the Z bar to the fork and put left and right hand threads so you can use helms along with lock nuts--- makes adjusting so much easier PLUS no way that its going to fall out of the assembly---FED 387
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