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#1 |
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We were also able to "seal" off the drivers compartment from the trunk. Now we will begin mounting/routing the fuel cell.
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#2 |
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With the crazy cold temperatures rolling through, about the only thing I could do was get started on the wiring. You'll see I updated the print with some revisions. One in particular being a DPDT relay added to latch the line lock on for staging purposes and releasing once the clutch is released. This also allowed me to wiring in the burnout rpm separate from the launch rpm.
All electronics will be where the glovebox was. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#3 |
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Now if I could only hide the 30 wires from the grid that I won't be using.....
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#4 |
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I think you need 2 bars running from the top of main hoop to the rear frame. I maybe wrong might check rule book.
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#5 |
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Looks nice. Now that I see the photos of your electrical layout everything makes sense. Good luck fitting all this stuff in your glove box with room for expansion. I tried that with my Mustang and wound up with a panel on the passenger side foot board. But that's a Ford....
Keep up the good work.
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Dale Shearon 68 Mustang 6394 |
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#6 | |
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I checked back in the book (I run a 10 point cage), and this is correct. This car has the crossbar angle braced but not the top hoop. Here's a pic from the 2020 book:
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Dale Shearon 68 Mustang 6394 |
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#7 |
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#8 |
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Stick Shift Necessities!!!
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#9 |
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Love this build! Those boxy Malibus are one of my favorite body styles - they make great-looking race cars - and the clutch pedal always adds several points to the cool-meter.
Can't wait to see this one on the track! |
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#10 |
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Hows it coming along ?
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Jake Biermann |
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