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#1 |
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Have you looked at the available shanks that would move the actual ball aft by 2 inches? Not all the shanks have the same dimension from hitch pin hole to the ball...and course different brand weight distribution hitches may dictate which shank you can use. Know the SuperHitch brand with truss type extensions are way too expensive but offer even more..
Ive used etrailer.com for unique towing options.
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Jim Carter 2340 Super Stock 2340 SST/2340 Stock Set another place at the table |
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#2 |
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If all else fails, get a solid bar 2.5 and drill and cut it to what you need. It won't break, but takes about a 12 pack to drill it.
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Jeff Teuton 4022 STK |
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#3 |
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This is the weight distribution hitch I am using.
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66542.html Last edited by rallye bob; 12-31-2018 at 11:43 AM. |
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#4 |
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A longer ball mount would work, but rather than increase leverage on the truck, I welded on a new trailer jack mounting plate just behind the coupler.
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#5 |
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#6 |
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Assume he’s talking welding on a plate just aft of the existing coupler (see link) with holes to remount the electric jack. This is probably the simpler approach unless it doesn’t work because of an existing battery/generator box on the A frame.
https://www.etrailer.com/A-Frame-Tra...CA-5400-B.html
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Jim Carter 2340 Super Stock 2340 SST/2340 Stock Set another place at the table Last edited by jmcarter; 01-01-2019 at 09:52 AM. |
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rallye bob,
I had the same problem and did exactly what Jeff/ Jim suggested !!!! You should only need 2-3" to clear the electric jack ?? Then make sure you rebalance the trailer by ( level) checking the four corners before you Tow ??? Make sure you measure the tube and shaft, a couple times before you cut and drill for clearance ? I have had No-problems in over 10 years of Towing, Good - Luck..
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Dave Ribeiro 1033 STK |
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