Fairmont U/S Build AKA Craigslist Racer

[Paul Wong]

Originally Posted by Shadylane

To be honest not everyone in lower stock classes runs such a big tire. I talked with a guy that races in U/SA that uses a 26X8.5 and does just fine.

Another racer in the same class (same kind of car) uses a 30X9 and is really fast.

Here is my reasoning, right or wrong. The low gear in the transmission is 3:19. Even with soft lock clutches I may need the tire. There is a bigger selection of 9 inch tires especially in 29.5.

I could be all wrong on this and may end up using a smaller tire. Your right, common sense would tell you a smaller tire has less un-sprung weight and rotating weight.

Let me just guarantee you're doing the right thing. If you can avoid it you don't want to hit a 26 tire at 6000 plus. If you need help just get in touch.
I have to get working on my new U/S combo as I have a feeling it's time for my belvedere to move to G/S.

[Tony Corley]

Originally Posted by Paul Wong

Let me just guarantee you're doing the right thing. If you can avoid it you don't want to hit a 26 tire at 6000 plus. If you need help just get in touch.
I have to get working on my new U/S combo as I have a feeling it's time for my belvedere to move to G/S.

Why not? Only asking because I've done it repeatedly in the past, with a 9 second, 3100 lb car and a non adjustable clutch, with no issues. So when I read statements like the one you made, I am curious as to why. Not trying to be a smartass, just seriously curious. I could possibly see the need for the larger tire on a leaf spring car with less suspension adjustability, but he's running a Fox body, which probably has the most suspension choices available for any car made in the last 50 years.Not to mention a decade of heads up, small tire, manal transmission testing in several NMRA classes to draw experience from. I think I personally would run the smaller tire, pick up the extra et, and use suspension, shock, and clutch settings to make it work.

[Paul Wong]

I'm not trying to be some stocker mentality type but with less than half the horsepower you need all the help you can to make it consistent. It can work with the short tire and in this scenario with no rear gear selection that may be the case. These engines are not forgiving and using every forgiving part you can make them much more consistent. If it's just laying down big numbers is all you're after, index wise that is, then the short tire may be better. It is a lot of fun to go rounds and beat 8-10 second stockers with these eccentric rides.

[Tony Corley]

Originally Posted by Paul Wong

I'm not trying to be some stocker mentality type but with less than half the horsepower you need all the help you can to make it consistent. It can work with the short tire and in this scenario with no rear gear selection that may be the case. These engines are not forgiving and using every forgiving part you can make them much more consistent. If it's just laying down big numbers is all you're after, index wise that is, then the short tire may be better. It is a lot of fun to go rounds and beat 8-10 second stockers with these eccentric rides.

Ok, I can see that. I guess I look at everything with a heads up mentality, LOL. Thanks for the explanation.

[BLIND MULE]

Here ya go no trimming!


http://www.dragracetires.com/9-0-27-...ce-slicks.html

[Shadylane]

Got a little more stuff done this week.

Built a battery tray out of 1/8 aluminum in my welding class, put a little lip on it and some tabs to mount it to the body. Weighs a little more than the OE tray but it's much stronger. Turned out pretty good.

I've been scraping undercoating and seam sealer out of the rear fenderwells for a couple days now. Nasty job at best. Using a Bernzomatic to soften it up, then scraping with a putty knife. After I get most of it off I go over it with a stainless steel wire brush on my angle grinder.

I think the issue with the rear tire clearance will be resolved once I get the fenderwell lips folded up and add at least one inch clearance at the front and back of the wheel wells, as per the rule book you can go up to 2 inches.

Finally got the rear brake lines installed. I followed the old rear brake line which routes through the firewall of the passenger side of the car, down along the door sill then across to the driver’s side under the rear seat and exiting to the rear axle. I'm not sure I like the new (new to me anyway) brake lines made out of copper/nickel. It's easy to bend but it looks like it may be easy to dent and therefore pinch off.

[cicero819]

Eastwood makes a great tool to fold the inner rear fender lip, you could make the tool in your welding class.lol Nice project keep it up.CR