Compressor filter/dryer

[Sean Marconette]

What black pipe are you refering too? Water pressure in schedule 40 pipe exceeds 150 PSI 24/7 365. In hospitals, industrial and high rise buildings, if the pumps are located in the lowest point in the building, they have to overcome the height of the building to get to the highest systems. So the lowest points would have the highest pressure. A 300 ft vertical pipe filled with water would have 129.9 PSI at the bottom while static. And more to push the water higher with a pump. We pipe pneumatic air lines, chilled water, hot water and steam for hospitals and industrial in black pipe since 1919. It depends on the application as to what schedule of pipe that is used.

What ever you do NO PVC, or CPVC PLASTIC.

Sean

[FED 387]

SEAN--ditto on Plastic stuff--- I know guys that try to plumb their garages with black or galvanized plumbing/gas pipe and put in excess of 175-200 maybe more pounds thru it ---suicidal!!!!--- I'm no engineer but there are alternatives to do it safely--keyword here safely--- if you feel that galv/black pipe will safely work at the 125-150 pound range fine just don't get carried away with higher pressures--You seem to know so I respect that but some guys have a 60 gallon Sears oilless compresser and others have a big humongeous2 stage 5 HP 150 gallon Ingersall Rand industrial compresser--I tend to lean to the conservative side on things like this--FED387

[Sean Marconette]

FED 387 I was trying to post without sounding like a jerk, so hopefully it came across that way.

The velocity of the fluid also impacts how long the piping will last. For the given application and the amount of use, schedule 40 will live longer than most of us, unless it is made in China, and then it may not be worth a crap before it gets on the ship! Same way with fittings.

For the air compresser having less than a total of 60' of piping just a guess, keep any horizontal piping runs with a minimum grade so that any water will drain. Any vertical elevation change should have a dirt leg (scale pocket) and a drain valve. Ronnie by the time were done with our helpful hints, you could run the piping around your entire house!

Sean

[Ronnie Smith Jr]

^^lol on piping around the house.

Sean, I sent you a PM.

Thanks for the posts and recommendations.

[Philip Saran]

I have to ask, if you install your air compressor up in the attic how are you
going to drain the air/moisture out of the tank after each days use??

It may take a few years, but I have seen what happens to a air tank if not
drained on a regular basis, lots of pinholes in the tank, not repairable...

[Glenn Hayes]

The noise and vibration from that compressor mounted in the attic will vibrate entire house. Your family will want to strangle you.

[Ronnie Smith Jr]

The compressor has been winched up to the attic and set in place. It's in the garage portion of the attic at the furthest point away from the "house" portion separated by a fire wall. I have also hung additional insulation to absorb and deaden the sound. At some point, I will put a sound wall up to help deaden the noise even more. For the most part, the compressor does not run often - or late either.

To address the moisture and condensation, I am plumbing a separate line and dump valve from the bottom of the tank into the garage and either dump it in a container or outside. I will have the main line run off the top of the tank/regulator, plumbed through the ceiling into the garage and into a distribution manifold where I will have 3 lines around the garage. Each outlet has a moisture valve where I can purge moisture if necessary.

It is not fully complete yet, but it is more quiet in the house now when the compressor is running than when it was in the garage. Waiting on a few more pieces to complete the system, then I will finish plumbing the lines.

Now I have more room in the garage! This was the whole intent of moving the compressor and hanging ceiling racks over the garage door for storage. I constructed a workbench on heavy-duty hinges that I can fold up when not in use - so I can park the 2nd car in the garage - as it was designed. When the compressor project is completed the next project is epoxy paint on the floor. I have already ran electric throughout including new T8 lights, hung drywall and paint. The final project is to put in nice aluminum cabinets - this will be accomplished years down the road after tuition bills have been paid...

[Sean Marconette]

Originally Posted by Philip Saran

I have to ask, if you install your air compressor up in the attic how are you
going to drain the air/moisture out of the tank after each days use??

It may take a few years, but I have seen what happens to a air tank if not
drained on a regular basis, lots of pinholes in the tank, not repairable...

Philip,
I do not think I explained my post very well with the blow down. The correct approach would be to have a separate pipe directly out of the bottom of the tank, along with the supply pipe. The blowdown out of the bottom of the tank would have a ball valve on it and 1/4" copper piped outside. If the air compressor is used alot, then you could install a timed blowdown solenoid. These are 120V units and plug into an outlet, all commercial pneumatic systems that we install or service has them. It takes the maintenance staff out of the picture for the system filling with water and ruining thousands of dollars of equipment, and someone on the operating table to be in jeopardy.

As for the noise and shaking issue. Spring isolators would be my suggestion.

Hopefully this makes more sense!

http://i569.photobucket.com/albums/s...psfe75ea0d.jpg

Sean

[Sean Marconette]

Ronnie,
I meant to send you a picture like I just made in the previous post, but it sounds like it is coming together very well!

Sean