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#1 |
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Thanks again Chris much appreciated
I just looked at the wilwood pedal (I never think about them for pedals) it looks good you say two masters for front and back so is this for 4 caliper rear brakes ? How high off the floor is your tunnel ? 1.80 straight cut thanks turbo 350 input ? What rear gears do you suggest ? and what size of tire ? Thanks for your time and answers much appreciated |
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#2 | |
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Haven't measured the tunnel, but my guess is maybe 3" tall? It's a glove box on top of a tunnel for fuel/wiring lines. Rear gears and tires go together as you know. Depends on your car, your power, etc. You want to be headed through the lights just short of red line. I'm running 4.10 rear gears with 33.5/17-16s but again, we have much more engine than it sounds like you do. You need to solve this for yourself, but 4.10 is very common.
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Chris Williams 6304 SC, TD, ET |
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#3 |
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Thanks again for the info
Yes good choice on the brakes with the family Yes I have not built my motor yet so I will wait a bit for gear choice as knowing myself things will probably change in that department but I am trying to restrain somewhat So do you run a racepak ? and if so do you run there dash ? Thanks again |
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#4 | |
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Chris Williams 6304 SC, TD, ET |
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#5 |
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Wow sounds pretty cool lots of info.......lots of sensors wow
so you run a efi set up ? Do you run div. 6 ? Thanks |
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#6 | |
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Chris
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Chris Williams 6304 SC, TD, ET |
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#7 |
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My 2cents. With the horsepower you are starting with, Top Dragster is out, plus your car is kinda short for the power you will need in TD. Back to your horsepower, I would think about a 1:69 gear in the trany with a 4:30 in the rear. I like 15 inch rear wheels as it gives you more sidewall in the tire to work with. In a swing arm or four link etc it may not be as important but with a hard tail I want any available tool for adapting to tracks.
I agree that a one peice glass body is the cats meow but for the reasons Chris mentions, I would go to a multi peice body, also the Aluminum option might work best for you as your car sounds one off possibley. Stock noses, dash etc are available and I would set the dash and pedals where I want them then the nose, fill the body in from there. Also dont forget fast access to electronics is a round saver in a pinch. Convertors, easy start with a Hughes 7SC, for super comp with mild to 1000 HP it is the right convertor, however if the Chance convertor is the right price you can make that work for SC now and TD later. Do not dive into TD, SC will be more of a challenge than you can possible imagine. Do not forget you will get more seat time local bracket racing and recomend that you get some education and car sorting out done there first. Starting out, it is hard to beat a Racedata dash, 500+- just saw one on race junk for 300, replaces all your gauges lets you replay one run, cleans the dash up a ton. While were on your dash, Get a K&R wiring kit and delay box, a chipmunk could wire the car (that would be me). All you will have on the dash is a switch box, delay box and Race data. Send me your email and I can send you some pics if you like. There are alot well intentioned folks without the best ideas in this world. Chris is a solid racer with sound ideas. Good luck racing and dont forget that having fun and meeting all the great people out there is the best part of Drag Racing, Jeff
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Jeff Beckman 318J ET, SG 318T SC |
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#8 |
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Thanks Chris and Jeff for the replies and input very much appreciated
Hey Chris do you run the division races ? Hey Jeff sure any pictures would be a big help my e-mail is funnycar@hotmail.ca Thanks again guys for the input Find that interesting also using more tire sidewall with the hardtail |
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#9 |
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so is a 240 car considered to short for a top dragster ?
Thanks |
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#10 | |
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Jeff is very right, I would focus on SC and/or SP to get my feet wet, if I were you. We used to run a hardtail, and the choice of the tire is important. And another discussion entirely ![]()
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Chris Williams 6304 SC, TD, ET |
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