Dragster Parts Choices

[Rory Christianson]

Thanks Chris that info helps I thought the nice smooth look looked good also
Have to think about the on off thing I could see that being a bit of a pain at times
Ran a funny before always a issue if people were not around

I will have to check difference in shipping price also

I need to install pedals also was looking at pro werks set up and there adjustable brackets any ideas ?

Also any feedback on a decent shorty dragster glide with brake ? probably first year or so we will look at running super comp type times so the car will make somehwere 600 to 750 range so I guess a trans that will work within that range

Also know a guy selling out with a Neal Chance convertor any thoughts ? He was running bbc in a rail also said 5500 stall

Thanks in advance for any feedback

[Chris Williams]

Originally Posted by Rory Christianson

Thanks Chris that info helps I thought the nice smooth look looked good also
Have to think about the on off thing I could see that being a bit of a pain at times
Ran a funny before always a issue if people were not around

I will have to check difference in shipping price also

I need to install pedals also was looking at pro werks set up and there adjustable brackets any ideas ?

Also any feedback on a decent shorty dragster glide with brake ? probably first year or so we will look at running super comp type times so the car will make somehwere 600 to 750 range so I guess a trans that will work within that range

Also know a guy selling out with a Neal Chance convertor any thoughts ? He was running bbc in a rail also said 5500 stall

Thanks in advance for any feedback

For pedals (and brake stuff) I'm a big Wilwood fan. We use their floor mounted pedal with the dual master cylinder (two separate systems front to back). For the gas, we have a separate pedal, looks kinda like the Pro Werks one. We couldn't use the Pro Werks setup, as we have a tunnel down the middle, we need separate pedals.

For adjustability in a dragster, it's easy, just drill a bunch of holes in the floor at regular intervals and use floor mounted pedals. Just make sure you have some meat underneath to bolt to. Our car is used by me (6'2" bumping into 300lbs) and my daughter (5'1" - 125lbs) and we adjust between us by moving pedals, dash, steering, seat, etc. all within 1/2 hour.

I have two shorty powerglides, one is an ATI (and upgraded locally), one purchased from Transmission Specialties. Both are bulletproof, the TS one is in the car now, the ATI case is back at Reid getting a recert. Whoever you choose, make sure you get the 1.80 straight-cut gears -- much more reliable. We're over 1000hp, so we're north of your power requirements. Both trannys have Transmission Specialties transbrakes on them, they have been very good for us.

Converters are VERY personal. I don't know any topic that gets more people more wound up than converters. I know people who change them like I change underwear, others who do nothing but curse at their converter, some insist one versus the other and so on. I don't know anything about Chance. We use Continental Converters (talk to Chris), and love them. Mechanical diode, so they lock up nicely, we've found them very consistent. I know others who swear by Hughes. Lots of choices, just as many opinions.

Hope this helps,
Chris

[Rory Christianson]

Thanks again Chris much appreciated

I just looked at the wilwood pedal (I never think about them for pedals) it looks good
you say two masters for front and back so is this for 4 caliper rear brakes ?

How high off the floor is your tunnel ?


1.80 straight cut thanks
turbo 350 input ?

What rear gears do you suggest ? and what size of tire ?

Thanks for your time and answers much appreciated

[Chris Williams]

Originally Posted by Rory Christianson

Thanks again Chris much appreciated

I just looked at the wilwood pedal (I never think about them for pedals) it looks good
you say two masters for front and back so is this for 4 caliper rear brakes ?

How high off the floor is your tunnel ?


1.80 straight cut thanks
turbo 350 input ?

What rear gears do you suggest ? and what size of tire ?

Thanks for your time and answers much appreciated

I'm using Wilwood's dual master (think it's their 260-4894), have two brake lines running to the back, and have dual caliper rears. I have my daughter in a nearly 180mph car. Didn't want to have to explain to her mother why the brakes failed...

Haven't measured the tunnel, but my guess is maybe 3" tall? It's a glove box on top of a tunnel for fuel/wiring lines.

Rear gears and tires go together as you know. Depends on your car, your power, etc. You want to be headed through the lights just short of red line. I'm running 4.10 rear gears with 33.5/17-16s but again, we have much more engine than it sounds like you do. You need to solve this for yourself, but 4.10 is very common.

[Rory Christianson]

Thanks again for the info
Yes good choice on the brakes with the family

Yes I have not built my motor yet so I will wait a bit for gear choice as knowing myself things will probably change in that department but I am trying to restrain somewhat

So do you run a racepak ? and if so do you run there dash ?

Thanks again

[Chris Williams]

Originally Posted by Rory Christianson

So do you run a racepak ? and if so do you run there dash ?

Yes, and yes. But I'm a data geek with 25+ years in the computer business. I monitor and track everything. I have the V300SD and the IQ3 dash, and probably 50+ sensors (if you count the inputs from the EFI system). So I'm at one end of the spectrum.

[Rory Christianson]

Wow sounds pretty cool lots of info.......lots of sensors wow
so you run a efi set up ?

Do you run div. 6 ?

Thanks

[Jeff Beckman]

My 2cents. With the horsepower you are starting with, Top Dragster is out, plus your car is kinda short for the power you will need in TD. Back to your horsepower, I would think about a 1:69 gear in the trany with a 4:30 in the rear. I like 15 inch rear wheels as it gives you more sidewall in the tire to work with. In a swing arm or four link etc it may not be as important but with a hard tail I want any available tool for adapting to tracks.

I agree that a one peice glass body is the cats meow but for the reasons Chris mentions, I would go to a multi peice body, also the Aluminum option might work best for you as your car sounds one off possibley. Stock noses, dash etc are available and I would set the dash and pedals where I want them then the nose, fill the body in from there. Also dont forget fast access to electronics is a round saver in a pinch.

Convertors, easy start with a Hughes 7SC, for super comp with mild to 1000 HP it is the right convertor, however if the Chance convertor is the right price you can make that work for SC now and TD later. Do not dive into TD, SC will be more of a challenge than you can possible imagine. Do not forget you will get more seat time local bracket racing and recomend that you get some education and car sorting out done there first.

Starting out, it is hard to beat a Racedata dash, 500+- just saw one on race junk for 300, replaces all your gauges lets you replay one run, cleans the dash up a ton.

While were on your dash, Get a K&R wiring kit and delay box, a chipmunk could wire the car (that would be me). All you will have on the dash is a switch box, delay box and Race data. Send me your email and I can send you some pics if you like.

There are alot well intentioned folks without the best ideas in this world. Chris is a solid racer with sound ideas.

Good luck racing and dont forget that having fun and meeting all the great people out there is the best part of Drag Racing, Jeff